Friday, February 28, 2014

stair-handrail-return

stair handrail return


I just put the last coat of clear on my new handrail when I found out that in 2003 the code was changed and now the handrail ends have to return to the wall because people catch their clothing and whatever else on the open ends. I just planned on recutting the ends and return pieces at 45s but then I got to thinking that the code might require a curved return so there aren't any edges. Could someone clear this up for me. Thanks Generally the 45 degree returns suffice the code. The intent, as you said is to prevent hanging on the opened ends, which you will do away with installing the 45's. Cut the bottom one and the piece will fit the top. Same thing with the top one, as it will fit the bottom. That's a great idea to use the end cuts for the returns but unfortunately I already beveled the ends and as it is recutting it will make it shorter than it suppose to be. If I cut in any further it will be real short. I have a scrap piece from another handrail that I can use for return pieces. The ends as it is now stop just above the nose of the first and last tread. With the new cuts they will be 2 in from the treads. I might have to start from scratch. thanks Before you go and do alot of replacement, contact your local building authority for an interpretation. Some localities allow more than others, and yours may either allow them as you have them, or allow you to have them 2 short. Worth a shot. I'm getting ready to do the same project. How do you fasten the 45's? I'm familar with the standard bolt/screw method for straight pieces. Are the actual returns 45's or just the cuts (90 degree return to the wall)? I'm also considering the pre-fab rounded 90 returns, does anyone make cheap templates for standard profiles for aligning/drilling the holes for the fastners. Thanks I usually cut 45 degree returns at the proper length and swap them. The top one will fit the bottom, and the bottom one will fit the top. I glue them and drive a 2 1/2 15 gauge finish nail alternatively through each piece far enough from the edge to keep from splitting or running the nail throught the side. The glue will do the work, the nails just hold it until it does. Originally Posted by chandler I usually cut 45 degree returns at the proper length and swap them. The top one will fit the bottom, and the bottom one will fit the top. I glue them and drive a 2 1/2 15 gauge finish nail alternatively through each piece far enough from the edge to keep from splitting or running the nail throught the side. The glue will do the work, the nails just hold it until it does. Ditto but I've added flat 90deg brackets on the underside.. doesn't hurt. Also, regarding the overall length... depends if your city inspector is the type who breaks out the tape, or the type that sees that you know what your doing and just looks for big time messups.








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