Aquarite chlorine generator
Hi, this Aquarite has been trouble free for about four years. Now, when the pool pump comes on the power led does not come on. The LCD still shows salt, temp, etc and the flow led works as usual (blinks for a while, then goes off). Sometimes the power and generating led's come on for a few seconds. Before I change out any parts (eg. main circuit board) are their any voltage readings I should look for (transformer secondary, red / black wires at top of board)? Thanks in advance. Be sure you have line power. Check that first. Then check the on-board fuse. Have you considered the possibility that the indicator light is simply not working? What does the display do if you scroll through the diagnostics? Small world. I just ran into the exact issue with my Mother-in-law's Aqua Rite. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the big black component (resistor) at the top right of the board (looking at it mounted) had burned the board at is post-attach points. I then noticed similar situations with the two red components (resistors) located on top and bottom of the screw terminals on the left lower corner of the board. They were actually split open. I'm in the process of finding replacements and firing up the soldering iron. Good luck. I'll update if my process works or not. If you find the same, the part number is SL32-2R025 for the big one (Digikey.com has them for $2.40). The jury is still out on the smaller ones. - John The red components are actually capacitors...typed in a hurry. I'm still trying to find out their specs. Originally Posted by dixon422 The red components are actually capacitors...typed in a hurry. I'm still trying to find out their specs. Found. They are, in fact, varistors. The labels kept me from completely believing they were capacitors, although they looked like them to me at first. The RZ labels associated with them indicated that their function is on par with the larger (burned up) in-rush current limiter I found earlier that was labeled an RZ component as well. After having a look at the PCB traces, this makes more sense anyway. Manufacturer is Littlefuse. P/N is V150LA2P I'm sure there are equivalent parts, but this one has good specs (according to myself), and is even the same color. As these 3 components are meant to suppress voltage transients, I feel safe in assuming there was a power spike, i.e. lightning, that they just couldn't handle. Welcome to Florida. Now to order all of these and get to soldering. Hope my part-hunting can help someone else on here... Fixed! Installed it this morning and all is well. The parts I listed are correct. The large one I got from DigiKey, the others I ordered from Mouser, since they were the only ones that would sell singles and not lots of 1500. Soldered, checked continuty for each component lead with another point on its trace, installed and powered up with fingers crossed that the originals did their job of protecting the rest of the ciruit. The prob I'm having is only my power light and No Flow light are on. I have replaced the entire board with no change. I'm am thinking about changing the transformer next. Anyone seen a problem like this? I don't want to keep buying unneeded parts... My guess would be the flow meter mounted in the pipe with the telephone-style cable going to the box...or something wrong with that specific connection. If the circuit doesn't recognize a flow, it won't energize the generator cell. Dixon422, Thanks so much for your previous posts. I had the same problem with the power light not coming on and could tell that the thermistor (although I had no idea what it was at the time) was fried. I was thinking about getting a new board when I came across your post and was able to desolder it and solder a new one on. It works like a champ! Thanks for saving me about $200! I owe you one! I had the same thing happen: chlorine at zero, no lights on the control panel except for the display. I removed the cover panel and saw the same thing: SL32-2R025 appeared burnt at the solder joints. I remove and replaced it and now all is well. Thanks for the very helpful info. It save me at least $335. Jim Grimm OK well I replaced the current limitors as mine were burnt up also. But still no lights for more then 5 sec or generating chlorine as my levels low when water tested. The Cell was replaced 9mos ago looks good. Any ideas/help are appreciated. I think I have the same problem with the SL32-2R025. (Same symptoms and the board looks burned there) I am however a neophyte at electronics and could not find the part at Digikey. Do I look in a particular section? Nothing came up when I entered the P/N on the home screen. In addition to that, do I remove the board to do the work or just cut the leads coming out of the board and solder to them? Thanks in advance My problem is simular. However, I don't have a green power light on. And It doesn't read salt when I know there is plenty in the pool. The flow sensor light appears to work normally. When the fllow light stops blinking, the gen light illuninates momentarily the goes out. Any additional suggestions for me befors I purchase a new control box? Appreciate any help. Thanx. Originally Posted by dixon422 Small world. I just ran into the exact issue with my Mother-in-law's Aqua Rite. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the big black component (resistor) at the top right of the board (looking at it mounted) had burned the board at is post-attach points. I then noticed similar situations with the two red components (resistors) located on top and bottom of the screw terminals on the left lower corner of the board. They were actually split open. I'm in the process of finding replacements and firing up the soldering iron. Good luck. I'll update if my process works or not. If you find the same, the part number is SL32-2R025 for the big one (Digikey.com has them for $2.40). The jury is still out on the smaller ones. - John thanks dixon422 have the same problem and i ma going to follow your steps let u know,hope i can find the parts here in the bahamas I just registered to thank dixon422 and others who posted here for saving me a lot of dough. Had the same problem - no power light, no flow light works, generating light comes on briefly after no flow stops blinking, digital display works. There were burn marks near the SL32-2R025 connections as others have noted. When I desoldered it and pulled it out, it crumbled to pieces in my hand. Ordered a new one from Digikey on Saturday and it got here on Monday. Just soldered it in and everything is working normally. I also wanted to thank dixon422 and all those who contributed to helping me save 300 bucks. Although I didn't have the discoloration on the board, my symptoms were similar enough, and the cost of the components cheap enough, that I was willing to try and change the SL32-2R025. I purchased 2 (just in case I destroyed one) at a price of 2.42 each from Digikey. What did I have to lose? My system is back to operating, and I couldn't be happier. Thanks folks! I also just registered to thank dixon422 and others who posted here for saving me $740.00 for an unwarranted service call/repair. I had the same symptoms no power,generating or any salt readings...anyway ... I'll make it short (tic), the only authorized Aquarite dealer in central Va came out and diagnosed the problem without even taking off the cover!..... ( must be a Kreskin type ,amazing indeed) as a need for a new board at $470.00 plus $270.00 for installation for a whopping $740.00 ! Well guess what.....I removed the cover and sure enough the same limiter had cracks around the edge, did not take long for me to diagnose either....except I actually took the cover off and could see the problem. I also ordered two just incase I need a spare, I replaced it myself and the unit is back at work producing chlorine and at total cost $10.02 parts plus shipping, I was able to save $729.98. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU !!! Good luck and thanks again!!! Did you remove the circuit board from the housing or leave it in place? Did you solder the components while the unit was still on the wall? I haven't soldered any circuit boards in over 30 years and then it was always with the board horizontal. Originally Posted by lakekids Did you remove the circuit board from the housing or leave it in place? Did you solder the components while the unit was still on the wall? I haven't soldered any circuit boards in over 30 years and then it was always with the board horizontal. Ok....here is what I did.... The first step is to turn off the power supply at the breaker and verify this procedure before removing the cover of unit. I disconected 4 wires : on the top right corner of the board the red and black were pulled off,next two were the yellow and orange they are located to the right of the 20amp fuse. Remember to pull/disconect the Turbo cell plug at bottom right of the board. Now unscrew the two hex head screws at the bottom of the board and slide the board up and out,I used a sponge to wedge /support the board (making it almost horizontal) while I soldered. If your not comfortable with this procedure ,please do not attempt and have someone assist or perform this task for you. Good luck and be patient , remember also that it takes at least a full 24 hours of operation after the unit has been restarted/repaired for the readings to become accurate,(could be a little longer,depending on pool size and the amount of water your pool has ....like a 24,000 gallon pool or 11,500 gallons it all has to cycle through the Turbo cell) again this is were patience is needed. Again Good Luck and work safely. mine has just started saying PCB and thats it no matter what buttons I push or try to reset just PCB !? what does it mean? sounds like the board has a problem, do you have owners manual? Should have codes in it. Originally Posted by timboss1 Ok....here is what I did.... The first step is to turn off the power supply at the breaker and verify this procedure before removing the cover of unit. I disconected 4 wires : on the top right corner of the board the red and black were pulled off,next two were the yellow and orange they are located to the right of the 20amp fuse. Remember to pull/disconect the Turbo cell plug at bottom right of the board. Now unscrew the two hex head screws at the bottom of the board and slide the board up and out,I used a sponge to wedge /support the board (making it almost horizontal) while I soldered. If your not comfortable with this procedure ,please do not attempt and have someone assist or perform this task for you. Good luck and be patient , remember also that it takes at least a full 24 hours of operation after the unit has been restarted/repaired for the readings to become accurate,(could be a little longer,depending on pool size and the amount of water your pool has ....like a 24,000 gallon pool or 11,500 gallons it all has to cycle through the Turbo cell) again this is were patience is needed. Again Good Luck and work safely. I too had the same issue with the SL 32-2R025 . after changing this component my unit now reads power, generating on auto. My problem now is the check cell and no flow light stays on. and if I set the unit to super chlorinate the generating light goes out. Any suggestions? Originally Posted by cherwill I too had the same issue with the SL 32-2R025 . after changing this component my unit now reads power, generating on auto. My problem now is the check cell and no flow light stays on. and if I set the unit to super chlorinate the generating light goes out. Any suggestions? Thats a new one for me....Have you cleaned the Turbo cell? ....have you checked the flow probe( looking at the appearance of it ,meaning it should be sorta shiny and unless there is some obstruction causing flow/reading issues) , it is located just below the T-cell on the return line....I would do that and unplug the T-Cell supply cord from the generator wait a about 3 minutes,also turn off the power supply.....see if you get a reset , if not I would certainly call the toll free number and speak to a Goldline tech....good luck and make sure all connections are secured. Thanks to you all for the info on repairs to the resistor on the Aquarite board. I too had the same burned out resistor. I have replaced it and everything is back up and running again as before. I do believe that I may have another issue that may have caused the original faliure. After replacing the SL32-2R025, I ran the system for 6 hours and returned to check the readings. The transformer and the new SL32-2R025 were both too hot to touch. Does anyone know if this is a sign of a transformer going bad? I have rechecked all the wiring and all connections are correct. We would like to extend our thanks, also, to Dixon422 and TimBoss1 for taking the time to post these instructions--worked perfectly! And, like TimBoss1, we bought 2 resistors just in case; now we can save the spare for when this happens again (apparently in another 4 years). Dixon422, you're a prince. Worked great for me as well. Excellent advice. I was able to remove the entire board, solder the part off, solder the new part on and be done within 30 minutes. Excellent! I had same problem - looked closely (b/c of this board) at the thermistor and saw it was cracked all the way thru. Replaced it and the cell started generating again. One mistake I made was wiring it back with the colored wires matching the colors on the PCB board (wires to Pentair Control Panel). According to the manual (page 12) the Green terminal gets the Black wire, Yellow Terminal gets the Green wire, Black Terminal gets Yellow wire, and Red terminal gets Red wire. I should have looked more closely before I disconnected - would haved saved me several hours of resetting, looking for bad connections etc... - regardless, this saved me several hundred dollars thanks to these posts. Hi, all lights are working fine (flow detection, generating) and salt reading is fine. However chlorine level is very low even after installing a new chlorinator. I also recently noticed that the control box top is pretty hot and I can't leave my hand on it for more than a few seconds. Could that be a symptom that the SL32-2R025 is about to die? I have read all that is here. My salt reads 0 and that does not change. When no flow stops flashing, generating comes on for about 20 seconds, then it goes off and check salt on. I took sample to be checked and salt is fine, cya ok and ph good. Diagnostics read true to manual including amps when not generating. I have removed the board several times and call myself closely inspecting ... all parts appear ok. Trans is warm ... SL32-2R025 looks good and is warm. Flow switch looks good ... connections tight both ends on both cords. I'm now lost ... any ideas?? Originally Posted by saturn5pvr Hi, all lights are working fine (flow detection, generating) and salt reading is fine. However chlorine level is very low even after installing a new chlorinator. I also recently noticed that the control box top is pretty hot and I can't leave my hand on it for more than a few seconds. Could that be a symptom that the SL32-2R025 is about to die? False alarm. It was my AquaCheck reader that seems busted. Took a pH reading the old fashioned way and pH is fine. The AquaCheck reader is always showing 0.0 for pH, it should have shown about 2.5 based on the drop test. Originally Posted by cherwill I too had the same issue with the SL 32-2R025 . after changing this component my unit now reads power, generating on auto. My problem now is the check cell and no flow light stays on. and if I set the unit to super chlorinate the generating light goes out. Any suggestions? I actually had a similar problem myself, couldn't figure out what to do so I had my cousin come over and fix it. I will ask him what he did to fix things and reply back here. -DanV I too had problems with the resistor, part number sl32-2r025. Called aqua rite and they said to put the circuit board back into the case and call their local rep. Said the entire board needed to be replaced. Unit is ony 5 1/2 years old and have already replaced the turbo cel. Found one for only $263. Called digi- key and their part number for the resistor is 570-1019-nd and has gone up to $4.80 but still cheaper than over $500 to replace board. Nice people at digikey. The part number for the resistor that TANSTAFL posted (570-1019-ND) is actually the MS32-2R025 from the MS32 series. The SL32-2R025 part number is 570-1062-ND. The specs are identical except the MS32 has a +/-25% tolerance and the SL32 is 15%. Also the cost is differeent. The MS32 costs 4.81 and the SL32 is 2.64 as of today. Thanks to all for the tip on aquarite generator repair. My thermistor was also fried. Ordered part from digi-key and install was a snap. Goldline would never have offered this imformation. As stated in previous posts, they want you to replace the circuit board, by a certified tech and pay the bucks. This was a simple fix that I would not have been able to diagnose without the help of this forum. Special thanks to Dixon422 for doing the research and tech support. A note about units running hot: I have had mine for 5 yrs and it has always run hot. After initial install I had a Aquarite tech out to look at mine to be safe and he stated that this was normal. It has alsways worked fine except for a cell replace last summer and now the thermistor. Thanks again to all. Tim I too am having the same problem as everyone else on a 5 year Aqua Rite system. I called Aqua Rite for assistance and even referenced this forum thread. They directed me to the nearest authorize dealer who was 30 miles away, had terrible reviews (online) and haven't responded to my calls or emails. My original pool installer wants $683 to replace the entire box. I see the board on Amazon for about $250. I called Digikey today and ordered two resistors but they are back ordered. Not sure when they come in. I will go that route before buying a new board. Thanks to all for posting! I will post my progress. Just ordered my part. As an out of work inventor $8.00 including shipping is much better than the alternative. I just happened by this site today. Boy am I glad I did. Originally Posted by shale I too am having the same problem as everyone else on a 5 year Aqua Rite system. I called Aqua Rite for assistance and even referenced this forum thread. They directed me to the nearest authorized dealer who was 30 miles away, had terrible reviews (online) and haven't responded to my calls or emails. My original pool installer wants $683 to replace the entire box. I see the board on Amazon for about $250. I called Digikey today and ordered two resistors but they are back ordered. Not sure when they will come in. I will go that route before buying a new board. Thanks to all for posting! I will post my progress. Well it worked out perfectly! Thanks to all. The resistors came in today so I went right to work. Shut off the power at the fuse box. Removed the display panel. Unbolted the lower two bolts to the motherboard. Disconnected the plug in at the bottom. By tipping the board forward, I was able to unsolder the old resistor. When I got it out, I could see the back side was cracked. Soldered in the new resistor and buttoned everything up. Had my son flick on the breakers and watched happily as the power light lit up and the voltage showed correctly. Then came the moment of truth when I turned on the sanitizer and sure enough, it went right to work. The whole process, including heating up the old soldering iron and putting everything away, was less than an hour. And with the money I saved, I bought a new grill! Thanks again! Had exactly the same symptoms as most on this post...the flow light would light, but then when entered generating the led would go out after 5 seconds, no chlorine generation to the pool. I followed the instructions to a tee, contacted digi-key and got several SL32 2R025's sent to me as mine was severly damaged due to heat (load). HOWEVER, I messed up and let a buddy reinstall the wires on the board. I figured it dummy proof, cause it was printed on the board Violet, Blue, etc..and didnt follow up. MY BAD! upon applying power the transformer fried!!!smoke and all.... Now I need a transformer! Cant find one at digi-key, found the manufacterer in China..but cant order direct. The part # on the transformer is 085013-2 T... I haven't any schematics, spec's or tolerances on the transformer. HELP! Can anyone tell me whwere I can purchase this transformer online, for a reasonable price?? Thanks to all for the help you have provided so far especially dixon422 Originally Posted by dixon422 Small world. I just ran into the exact issue with my Mother-in-law's Aqua Rite. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the big black component (resistor) at the top right of the board (looking at it mounted) had burned the board at is post-attach points. I then noticed similar situations with the two red components (resistors) located on top and bottom of the screw terminals on the left lower corner of the board. They were actually split open. I'm in the process of finding replacements and firing up the soldering iron. Good luck. I'll update if my process works or not. If you find the same, the part number is SL32-2R025 for the big one (Digikey.com has them for $2.40). The jury is still out on the smaller ones. - John I am not an electrician and I have big clumsy hands. I am also in a finacial bind right now. That caused me to try harder. Even I was able to remove the capacitor and varister that I had no idea what they were, I went and got an inexpensive soldering iron and I have an Aquarite chlorine generator that works again. Thank You all for all the help. In reference to the earlier message about the different part # with digi-key. Does the MS32 work in place of the SL32? I have had no luck in finding the SL32 in stock. I have run in to the problem with no lights on the panel just today and found this thread. It has been awesome in diagnosing my problem. I just have not been able to find the exact replacement thermistor in stock. Also, the board is chipped (the clear coating) where this part had overheated. Do you think this could be a problem after soldered back in?
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