I've tried a number of times to use hard copper tubing and compression fittings to hook things up like icemakers, dishwashers, sinks, and toilets. My last attempt was using 1/4 tubing to install an icemaker in the kitchen. After cutting off no less than 6 compression fittings that leaked through the nut, I gave up and installed a hose. In my bathroom remodel, which has exposed toilet and sink connections, I thought it would be classy to install chrome hard tubing as opposed to hoses. So I bent a nice piece of tubing for the toilet, pre-fit it, squared the ends perfectly, and guess what... it's leaking through the top of the nut. I can try to tighten more, but in my experience, the leak is going to get worse the more I tighten. Any tips? What might I be doing wrong???
I feel your pain, I am not a big fan of copper compression on icemaker lines either. When ever possible I try to install plastic type tubing rated for icemaker use. I have had more success with 1/2 compression supply valves. The key is everything straight, no kinks, no bends, no small arcs, etc so that everything seals. The toilet one probably needs to have the bend higher up closer to the toilet. Fit the tube into the socket, then slide the compression ring down and seat it and THEN bring the nut down when everything is aligned. Once you slide that nut down, you can't see whats going on, if you align first, you will have better chances of success.
Thanks. I did keep the bend up high, so it was a square run of the tubing in to the compression fitting. I just did a couple of wraps of teflon around the ferrule and all seems good. I know it's not 'right' to use teflon tape, but it has worked...
You're using a brass ferrule right? Back in the day, those chrome supply tubes and compression fittings was the only game in town. The only problems I remember were having a bend too close to the fitting causing it to go out of round or over tightening. Of course you want to use an adjustable flat jawed wrench, not a pipe wrench or pliers.
No tape. That is restrictive. Put a dab of Teflon paste around the ferrule and on the threads. You will never have a leak...
Pipe dope works great on them like lawrosa said. IFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF you really want to get it good go Blue Block. Slop it on let it dry then slop a bit on the outside and let it dry. I remember once in a bad thread in my buddies house we slobbed it on a small pin drip/leak and after about 3 goes it held for like 6 years until we replaced the pipe lol. http://www.audubonsupply.com/prodimg..._120_15707.jpg
I probably would not use block as tevil suggested. Use a product rated and safe for drinking water lines. This is a all around product I have always used. http://www.herchem.com/specs/realtuff.pdf
Tags: install, compression, fittings, compression fittings, around ferrule, tubing compression
I have a Fisher sander/spreader powered by a 10hp tecumseh tvm220-15728L verticle shaft motor and while removing the flywheel I dropped on concrete broke 2 of the magnets. Anybody have any idea where I can find some magnets for my flywheel 611094? Obviously I would like to just replace the magnets being that Tecumseh out of business now they want between $185-$238 for flywheel magnets... I took the flywheel off to clean it because it was all rusty and binding up its now clean but I do not have all the magnets.... Just want to save money reuse the perfectly good fly wheel I have ... Thanks Guys look forward to hearing some resolutions.... (E.G.) cross reference for different flywheels that I could get same type of magnets from...etc...
Check lawnmower shops especially the ones that have been around awhile. Some of them salvage old motors for parts. You might get lucky. I have had good luck on several occasions. Even found a tecumseh flywheel. Sid
Thank you ...have tried I am so frustrated.
Do you have to broken pieces? If so, put them back on using JBweld and it will be fine. If not, check ebay for a used flywheel. I think I have one or two of them in the shop.
Don't have all the pieces....I have this dog that likes to eat things..... 90lb pitbull....picked one up by the time I got it from him it was in 100pcs threw it out figuring that I could just replace.... man, was I wrong... never again I own nothing but briggs stratton with all the other equip ( I didn't even know that tecumseh went out of business).... only thing I have is an ariens snow blower thats junk but no magnets.... tried ebay most do not have ring gear magnets on bottom... if they do...over $130 used w/o ring gear (going to be very difficult to remove ring gear due to rust on bolts.. they are counter sunk)....... my flywheel is in perfect shape now that I wire brushed it. I mite have to just break down buy one. Thanks for the advise ....I was hoping someone knew where to get just the magnets
I don't know if this helps but the casting #'s are 13-0-48G 307G or C
Correction just put my other eyes on... 13-0-48C 307C Tags: tecumseh, flywheel, magnets, broken, find, ring gear, just replace, that could
Looking for any tricks of the trade I might be missing - first timer on a job like this. I have an old townhouse in Baltimore with a great covered front porch. Its about 18X7 I think. At the top of the three steps up to it, about 24 boards (of I bet the 120 on the porch) are rotted about a foot in. I bought 1x3 pine tongue and groove 8 fters and primed all sides with a slowdry oil primer. I also bought a 6ga, 1hp hot dog compressor with 16 ga and 18 ga nailers. I have a good chopsaw as well. I figure I just remove the trim (and the side board on the left side b/c one of the boards is under it), and rip up the boards that are rotted - careful to preserve the groove of the first good board. I was going to give the exposed joists a wipe with linseed oil. Then, measure the replacement, chop it to fit, put it in and use either a spreading hand clamp or a piece of tongue and groove placed in the far side to tap it in place, and face nail it with 16 gauge nails. Then I'll work my way across nailing into the exposed tongues. When I get to the last one, rip it size widthwise, give the tongue a bead of glue and face nail it in. Am I missing anything? What about felt cloth on the joists? Is linseed oil on the joists necessary? I have an 18 mo. old and another on the way, and my wife will kill me if I rip up the porch and get stuck in the job - so any pitfalls folks know of would be helpful!
Are you sure that you want to use pine? Is the pourch exposed to the elements?
Yellow pine is (was) used in older homes as porch floor covering, so it shouldn't present a problem if it is properly finished. Only one problem I see is fitting the last piece in place. You may have to remove the tongue on the last piece to allow it to fall into place, and face nail it over the joisting. Any attempt at spreading the flooring may tend to split the adjoining pieces, so go easy.
I'm not sure I wanted to use pine, but I found it at a mill yard and already spent ~$100 on it. I'm only doing a partial replacement and will likely need to do the rest in a couple years - at which point I think I'm going to use a composite. Funny thing about these porches (there's a block of them so we swap stories) is that the original wood (circa 1920) is an actual 1X3, while the only tongue and groove I could find is a nominal 1X3. Sorry, Chandler, but what does spreading the floor mean? I was figuring on ripping the last piece to size and face nailing. I saw this site: http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/d...g/t_groove.htm and the guy puts a bead of glue in when the last piece was pretty slender. Thanks for your comments, this forum has backed me up on a floor tiling, bathroom painting, radiator removal and a ton of other projects!
Don't forget that composite gets hot in the summer. If people like to walk with no shoes, it could be unconfortable.
I was referring to spreading the lumber while it is fresh in order to get the last tongue/groove to fit. It often doesn't work as well as cutting off the bottom of the groove and face nailing it.
Do you plan on painting the flooring? If so, I would lightly pre-prime all the pieces (including the ends) in order to seal the wood and help avoid buckling. Not too much though or your tongue will be too fat...
chandlermorse If I read right, your new boards aren't as thick as the old stuff. What were you going to do to address the height difference where they meet?
I was going to beltsand where they meet. It will be underneath one of those waterhog mats, so you won't be able to see it. It'll do until I can replace them all. The weird thing is that these same boards have already been replaced once (with slimmer contemporary stock). The last time they were replaced they primed them as well. I'm wishing now I did more to weatherproof them. I did use a slow dry oil primer, but we'll see.
Tags: tongue, groove, porch, boards, last piece, face nail, tongue groove, bead glue, face nailing, place face, place face nail, they meet, where they, where they meet
I am thinking about buying a Bostitch RN46-1 coil roofing gun with the vinyl siding adapter. Does anyone have any suggestions good or bad about using an air nailer to put up vinyl siding? What recommendations for settings, air pressure and nailing height setting of the gun. I will be using 1 1/2 roofing nail coils. Any suggestions or precautions greatly appreciated.
Save your money, save your warrenty, and save your vinyl siding. Do not use any type of air gun to nail on your vinyl siding. No matter what gimmicks are attached to it. All they want to do is sell you one. In fact the instructions with your vinyl siding say hand nail only. Why do they say this ? Because you never never nail on vinyl siding. You HANG vinyl siding. You do not hammer the nails in all the way. You leave the heads out a little, and also you put the nail in the middle of the slot. This allows the vinyl siding to expand and contract with the temperature outside. Sorry my friend, but that is how it is.
Tags: nail, vinyl, siding, vinyl siding, your vinyl, your vinyl siding, save your
Maytage Neptune washers over 5 years old are having tub bearing failures due to seal failures and water leaking into the bearings. Maytag only sells the bearing as part of the $435 tub but the bearings on the MAH4000 were replacable. The same may apply to other Neptune washers. This applies to machines using the older seal which uses a white plastic spacer in the Matag Lip Seal kit part number 12002022. The bearings needed are a 6207RS (double seals) and a 6206ZZ (double shields) which can be purchased for $10 to $15 each. The seal kit costs $40 to $50. The 6206 is at the drive pulley and may be OK if you catch the problem early enough. Follow the seal replacement directions up to the point of removing the original seal. Remove the clip ring at the rear of the tub and pull the 6206 bearing. A spacer sleve will come out with the bearing. Next pull the 6207 bearing inside the tub. Clean everything and put in the new or old 6206 bearing and clip. Put a 100W bulb in the tub bearing housing for 30 minutes befor installing the bearings and the housing will expand and make the bearing insertion much easier. Put the new 6207 bearing and sleve on the spinner shaft and install it in the tub without the seal. This is to set the 6207 bearing in the correct place and clamp the spacer between the two bearings. Remove the spinner shaft and continue with the seal replacement instructions. This takes quite a bit of time but reduces out-of-pocket repair cost by about $600 and probably more since most would chose to buy a new washer rather than put that much in an old machine. At least you get reasonable pay for the time spent.
The bearing set can be found at www.neptunewaxmotor.com for about $35. Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor # 12002535 if you still have the original one (with brown actuator pin) before it damages your upper control board. The above mentioned site offers a repair kit if you have suffered the no spin / no door lock wax motor failure already. Now, you can try to repair your machine control board instead of spending $200 on a new one.
Can anyone tell us where to locate these parts? Thanks!
Originally Posted by Jay in Texas Maytage Neptune washers over 5 years old are having tub bearing failures due to seal failures and water leaking into the bearings. Maytag only sells the bearing as part of the $435 tub but the bearings on the MAH4000 were replacable. The same may apply to other Neptune washers. This applies to machines using the older seal which uses a white plastic spacer in the Matag Lip Seal kit part number 12002022. The bearings needed are a 6207RS (double seals) and a 6206ZZ (double shields) which can be purchased for $10 to $15 each. The seal kit costs $40 to $50. The 6206 is at the drive pulley and may be OK if you catch the problem early enough. Follow the seal replacement directions up to the point of removing the original seal. Remove the clip ring at the rear of the tub and pull the 6206 bearing. A spacer sleve will come out with the bearing. Next pull the 6207 bearing inside the tub. Clean everything and put in the new or old 6206 bearing and clip. Put a 100W bulb in the tub bearing housing for 30 minutes befor installing the bearings and the housing will expand and make the bearing insertion much easier. Put the new 6207 bearing and sleve on the spinner shaft and install it in the tub without the seal. This is to set the 6207 bearing in the correct place and clamp the spacer between the two bearings. Remove the spinner shaft and continue with the seal replacement instructions. This takes quite a bit of time but reduces out-of-pocket repair cost by about $600 and probably more since most would chose to buy a new washer rather than put that much in an old machine. At least you get reasonable pay for the time spent. Jay, thanks for making this post. I hope you are still out there! I have read many tutorials on replace the Neptune tub bearings. You are the only person to suggest using the spinner to press in the inner bearing and spacer sleeve. I have seen others use wooden dowels, etc to locate the sleeve. Your technique seems like the best. Did you have any problem removing the spinner after using it to press in the inner bearing? Also, how did you pull out the old bearings? Thanks.
I purchased a set of 6206-2RS 6207-2RS bearings from Fremont Industrial Supply for $11.10 including the shipping. Parts arrived in a couple of days. Great people to work with. they have a website. Bill
Just finished bearing replacement on my Maytag Neptune. What a job! My advice to anyone undertaking this step is to rent the Tony Tool. It comes with the right bearings and seals and should make the job easier tho I doubt its quite as easy as the video shows. If you have tools and a grinder wheel you can make your own. Here's what I did: Go to a nut and bolt store and get a piece of 1 in. threaded rod, fine thread;it will be 3ft. long so ask if they can cut it in half. Get 5 nuts and a 3 1/2 in. washer. Take your new bearings and get washers that are just a bit smaller diameter than the bearings. You will pull your new bearings with these. Jam 2 of the nuts together in the middle of the shaft and grind them down to where they will just pass thru the inner bearing but catch on the rear bearing. Get a section of 3 in. schedule 40 pvc, cut off a 2 in.section and glue or tape the big washer on one end. This is your bearing cup. Pass the rod with jammed nuts thru the inner bearing till they contact the rear bearing. With your pvc cup on the rear thread a nut down to the washer and pull rear bearing. Use a foot long piece of 2 in. gas pipe with end cap and drive out the front bearing. Helps to use a good solvent on the bearing first and use a heavy hammer. Clean everything and apply grease to races where new bearings will sit. Now install rear bearing by passing your 1 in. rod thru bearing with slightly smaller washer and nut on rear. Put the large washer and nut on the inside of tub and have a helper start to tighten nut while you use a small hammer to tap,tap, on bearing to make sure it starts even. Do the inner bearing the same way and don't forget to put that spacer between them! Also helps to have helper whack the end of the rod while you tighten the nut on rear. I used a repair man to take the washer apart and get the inner tub out cause it's tricky. Then I did the bearings and he came back and reassembled the washer and seals . Hope this helps and saves you the 99 trips I made to the hardware, Home Depot etc.
This link has good photos of do the Neptune bearing replacement. Maytag Neptune Drum Bearing Replacement Some things that I found helpful in doing the bearing replacement: 1. There is no need to remove the boot from the plastic fascia panel when disassembling the machine. Just remove the whole assembly by removing the 13 clips. 2. The large snap ring pliers are an absolute necessity to remove the large snap ring. Nothing else will work. 3. The light bulb trick for heating the aluminum bearing housing worked great for reinstalling the bearings. Also put the bearings in the freezer for a day or so prior to installing them. The large front bearing slid right in with no trouble but the rear bearing needed to be pressed in. I used the Autozone rental strut spring compressor tool so I didn't have to beat the bearing into place. Just reverse the strut compressing blocks and use the old bearing to press in the back bearing and use a piece of 2x4 wood block with a hole drilled in it on the other side of the housing and just tighten the screw to press the bearing into place without pounding on the drum. Also use anti-sieze lubricant on the aluminum housing bearing surfaces to prevent galling and corrosion. I hope this helps.
Hello all, I want to install a driveway gate. My driveway is 12 feet across. This does not need to be heavy duty. It is mainly to keep my kids and dogs from running onto the road. I thought about one of those aluminum farm fence gates, but the kids could climb through the gaps. I would like it to have a wheel, so I can easily move it to move the car out of the driveway. Any ideas/plans would be appreciated. TIA, R.(p.s. I live in an area that lots of snow!)
I recently put in a chainlink driveway swing gate, bought used for $50. The crucial challenge was setting up a top pivot that doesn't wobble under heavy strain. Then even a relatively heavy gate moves easily. A driveway gate is an engineering problem, like a bridge. The best solution depends on the site: Sloped or rough driveway? Then swing gate with wheels is difficult. Long fence in line with gate? Then gate on tracks is possible. Nevermind the snow! Know any welders? Gate set in from road? Then wide swing (out) won't get into traffic. Anything solid (very solid) at top pivot? This is key to gate operation. You may have to use concrete and metal if there's no sturdy fence corner where the top pivot goes.
Hi there, thanks for the info. Where exactly can you buy a used chain link gate? Do you think my husband would be able to build one? No, I don't know any welders, lol....how can they help? We plan on building a fence on the one side for the gate to attach to. The other side has a brick retaining wall running along the driveway. It would swing in to the left from the road, so no worries about traffic. R. in Ontario
Do you want a 12' wide gate or 2 - 6' gates? The smaller gates are lighter, do not have to be as stiff and do not need as much width in the ground, but need the same depth if you want a relatively premanent stable post/gate. Dick
Originally Posted by chompersmama Where exactly can you buy a used chain link gate? Mine: Craigslist. Sometimes people want to dispose of these things. Originally Posted by chompersmama Do you think my husband would be able to build one? Some special tools are needed, plus every metal gate I've seen was welded. Originally Posted by chompersmama We plan on building a fence on the one side for the gate to attach to. The other side has a brick retaining wall running along the driveway. It would swing in to the left from the road, so no worries about traffic. On the latch side, you don't need anything very sturdy. It's the hinge side that takes lateral strain... in two directions (open and shut). Therefore, unless you have a concrete column or garage wall there, a strong fence corner (two directions) is necessary. I can't visualise your yard driveway layout, so I can't picture how the gate might tie in with things. It won't benefit from a wheel unless the pivot is floppy or the gate sags.. in other words it was built poorly. In fact the gate will swing better without a wheel. A double swing does split the load, but then you need fairly sturdy pivots on both sides. Also, the latching is more complex and you'll spend twice as long opening it for a car.
Buy a tubular farm gate and cover with welded wire fence fabric. (2x2 in. squares or 2x4 in. rectangles). Good luck with your project.
Hey, I really love this forum. You guys are so helpful! I want it to be just one 12 foot gate, that would be easier when bringing the car in and out. I will try to find a pic of the driveway! R
ONE twelve foot wide gate will put about 6 or 7 times as much straian on the post as a 6 foot wide gate would. If it were me, I'd go for two 6' wide gate panels and spend an extra 30 seconds getting them open. Grab a 5 lb. weight in your hand and hold it right up against your shoulder, with your elbow bent. You'll hold it there forever. Now, extend your arm out a foot from your shoulder -- how long can you hold it?? (That's the 6' gate panel.) Now extend your arm out completely level and see how long you hold that 5# weight. THAT is a single 12' panel.
Yup. I've seen many badly executed gate supports, propped up with more heavy stuff and still leaning. A free-standing post or fence-end is really inappropriate! It's like putting weight on this: / --falls over. That is why we use a triangle: /\ --put weight on that, it's stable. Sound engineering does not rely on brute mass. A well-built fence corner serves nicely.
Ok, I think you guys convinced me it will be two 6 ft gates instead of one 12 ft. One thing my husband hates is doing anything twice, so we might as well do it right the first time! thanks again for your great advice! Love this website!
Tags: ideas, driveway, gate, wide gate, fence corner, from road, Originally Posted, Originally Posted chompersmama, Posted chompersmama, able build, about traffic, along driveway, along driveway would, along driveway would swing
Hi, I just bought a Glacier Bay toilet with a 10 rating. However, in checking it's specifications, it says the passage way is only 1.5 wide compared to the other model of the same company. The other toilet passage way is 2 1/8 wide, but has a lower rating. Customers however gave this lesser rated toilet with very good reviews. I asked the person in home depot about it and he assured me the toilet with the 10 rating is better because of the way it flushes not the passage way. Both toilets he said are good but the 10 rated toilet is better and I would be saving $29. Was he just trying to get rid of these toilets? He's just a worker at Home Depot and I doubt he has any stake in trying to sell the cheaper toilet. Should I return the toilet? I'm getting second thoughts. I would hate to return this toilet. I went through hell trying to load it into my car and take it up to my condo. However, I just cant stand to have a toilet that will clog. Maybe I should have gone with american standard.
I just installed the same toilet yesterday in my cabin, and am pleased with the way it works. It isn't a Kohler, but it didn't cost $200 either. I have definitely learned to look at the flush rating. The one I installed in the other bathroom last year, due to my ignorance, only has a rating of 2.5 and it shows it, so it may get replaced next year.
Most manufacturers offer multiple models with different performance ratings. Considering that there are toilets with Maximum Performance (MaP) ratings of 800 - 1000, Glacier Bay ranks low on the list. You get what you pay for. Home Depot's Glacier Bay toilets MaP ratings based on flushing criteria: All-in-one RF 300 Aragon IV RF 175 Westminister EL ADA 250 If you care to review MaP ratings on all toilets, go to Southwest Environmental, Inc Many toilets that pass the American Society of Engineers (ASME) tests that involved flushing plastic balls, granules, sponges and other items, do not pass the MaP tests. MaP tests involve flushing plastic sleeves of soybean paste that really replicate human waste. 250 g is considered minimum, with the scale moving upward to 300, 400, 500, 600, 800, and 1,000 g. New Toilet Testing Transforms Performance - GreenSource Magazine
Chandler, Are you sure it's the same Glacier Bay toilet? There were 2 kinds. The $128 and the $99. The $99 toilet had the higher rating, which I bought. Twelvepole, I believe the highest rating at home depot is 10.
Toilet ratings vary depending on whose rating scale was used and what and how much they flushed down the toilet when testing. For instance, Home Builders Research Center's scale is 0.0 (Best) to 85.0 (Worst). Conflicting toilet test results still swirling about American National Standards Institute (ANSI) has their own scale. Depending on whose test and how results are interpreted and whether 0.00 (Best) or 85.0 (Worst) is used or a scale of 1 (Worst) to 10 (Best), or what kind and how many grams of material was used for ratings conflict, will continue to swirl in the toilet.
Blue, it was the $128 unit. I bought it because it was all inclusive, wax seal, all bolts, lid, etc. All I had to buy was the supply line. I know 92 lbs is a pita to lift into a car or truck, but you may want to check out the other toilets. Also, the difference may have been the ADA height of mine. Was yours standard height or 17 1/2? If you are satisfied with standard height and it has a high flush rating, go for it.
I've never installed this type of toilet before with the gravity style flush but here's my problem. The bowl itself does not hold water for more than several minutes at a time. Basically I have to flush the toilet before I use the toilet and then flush again when done usage. I tried a few different styles of floor seals to see if that was the problem but that doesn't seem to be the cause of the slow water loss. Any thoughts or suggestions on what could be the problem. For all I know this is how this new toilet design is supposed to work but seems strange to me. Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.
Originally Posted by xcelfitpat I've never installed this type of toilet before with the gravity style flush but here's my problem. The bowl itself does not hold water for more than several minutes at a time. Basically I have to flush the toilet before I use the toilet and then flush again when done usage. I tried a few different styles of floor seals to see if that was the problem but that doesn't seem to be the cause of the slow water loss. Any thoughts or suggestions on what could be the problem. For all I know this is how this new toilet design is supposed to work but seems strange to me. Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions. Model numbers with manufactures name or pictures would help out here.
All that is obvious is that is made by Glacier Bay and that it is one of the AOI, 1.28 toilets. Comfort height. Has simple handle and white plastic basket inside tank that empties the water. Don't know what other details to add. Someone on this post mentioned something about a manual flush if you didn't remove some rubber bands that were on some sort of inner flapper. I don't recall any such thing on this toilet but what did this poster mean? Thanks.
Is the toilet sitting level? Not sure why a bowl would empty itself without help. There is a rubber band around the flapper for shipping purposes and it must be removed prior to use, but that would cause the tank to empty itself and it would be quite obvious. Bowl on the other hand, got me.
There could actually be a bad casting inside the toilet or a small crack causing the water to leak out. If this happens every time, that is what I would be thinking. If it happens only occasionally, then you could have a venting issue.
There are 2 kinds of Glacier bay toilets selling at home depot right now. One is $128 Glacier Bay 1.28 GPF HET AIO Elongated toilet White Model 331-725. The other kind for $99 sucks! I bought two. It has a bucket that dumps water inside the tank. Just by looking at it seems a little odd. Well needless to say one of them malfunctioned on me. The other one has a very weak flush. I noticed when I went back to HOme depot it was selling for $88 now. It's no wonder. Fortunately I can take the toilet back. Unfortunately I dont have the muscle power to reload both toilets so I'm going to take back only one. I can barely fit the one toilet into my economy car. I'm annoyed. I would not recommend the $88 Glacier Bay toilet!!
Originally Posted by plumbingods There could actually be a bad casting inside the toilet or a small crack causing the water to leak out. If this happens every time, that is what I would be thinking. If it happens only occasionally, then you could have a venting issue. Correct! After replacing 3 wax seals on a brand new toilet I still had water draining at the base. Turns out the casting has a small hole in it in front of where the wax seals. Cheap toilets sucks! Do you think silicone will make a descent permanent seal in this 1/8 hole? Bringing it back will be a huge pain.
do what ever you want as far as trying to seal a hole but i would take it back personally. why let them get away with selling a defective toilet? before buying i would check this site for how it compares to other toilets as far as the flushing capabilities http://www.allianceforwaterefficienc...d_02-16-09.pdf oh and a restricted/clogged drain line can wick/siphon the water out of a bowl. very seldom have i found a vent to be the problem even though it gets blamed more than anything else in the plumbing system. usually if the vent is clogged it is a symptom of the drain line backing up and leaving debris in it or ice forming over the top.
I recently bought my first home and the previous owner was a penny pincher. He installed a new glacier bay one piece toilet (that is no longer available) the first time I used it I new I was in trouble. Instead of the water flushing around the bowl and cleaning everything, it shot out from the front leaving stuff on the sides. I flushed over and over and nothing ever changed. The stuff remained on the sides. I pulled it and installed a kohler and have been happy every since. 2 thumbs down to budget equipment.
Good lesson learned here. You get what you pay for in most cases.
Dose Home Depot sell any well made toilets ? I am just finishing my master bath and need to buy one. Thanks, Buzz
not in my opinion or that of a great many service plumbers
Glacier Bay 1.28 gpf, model 331-725, elongated. We've had it and an identical unit for over a year. Problem is with periodic(every 5 minutes) water flow to refill tank. No leakage into bowl. Water level stable for about 4 minutes then slowly lowers during next minute(approx. 1/4 ), then refills. Another blog hinted at a problem with the toilet drain that may be wicking out water. Has anyone experienced this problem with their Glacier Bay and found the fix? Other than the poorly designed seats, both our toilets have been working o.k.
I recently purchased a remodeled home and it has two glacier bay 1.28 gpf low usage toilets. The model with the plastic bowl in the tank and the terrible seat. Both have worked fine until recently. One now will not hold water in the bowl. I've tried dumping a high flow of water through and flusing more than once but the water always leaks out. I thought it may be a venting issue, but I'm pretty sure the toilets share the same vent so it can't be that. No water is leaking onto the floor. Anybody ever find a way to fix this problem short of replacement??
can you explain further exactly where the tank is leaking or provide us with a picture?
I love mysteries like this. You mean to tell us that if the water is in the bowl, to presumably the normal height, the water level goes down by itself? (Presumably without any wind/venting issues), and yet does not wind up on the floor (or below the floor?). How far does the water level in the bowl drop? What is below the floor (slab, basement or crawlspace? - sure it is not leaking below?) Can't imagine how a crack in the trap of the toilet could let water out of the trap and not externally leak out - unless - the toilet were caulked around the base, and the floor to flange perimeter gap was waxed or caulked shut AND the wax seal was bad, all at the same time, allowing the water from say a crack in the trap to externally leak under the toilet and then make it's way into the floor drain, thru a gap in the wax seal. Are you sure you do not have an obstruction? - and after a flush, the water level is too high? - and then simply slowly weeps back down, so that the level in the bowl finally drops to the height it is supposed to be at?
The toilet acts like its plugged - the water level goes pretty high but then slowly drains out. Below the level where it should be. The water level gets so low that it barely fills the very bottom of the hole where the waste disappears. No water leaks out the bottom and the house is a slab. Built in '54 in Phoenix. The bathroom has been remodeled. It looked like there was caulk around the wax ring, but upon closer inspection it looks like the toilet is sitting on a thin layer of grout. The floor is tile. If there is a leak could the grout and wax ring be forcing any water to hang around around the bottom side of the toilet until it slowly drains? Next step is going to be a wire hanger to see if there is partial obstruction. Then the real tool for clearing plugged pipes. Then I'm going to take the damn thing completely off. I'm sure its not a venting issue as the other toilet in the house uses the same vent and its working fine. Thanks for any help...
Originally Posted by phxcyclone The toilet acts like its plugged - the water level goes pretty high but then slowly drains out. Below the level where it should be. The water level gets so low that it barely fills the very bottom of the hole where the waste disappears. Ohhhh. That's normal.....when a toilet loses proper syphon action due to a clog. Have you tried to violently plunge? Or even quickly dumping 5 gallon pails of water down the bowl? When you flush, is there a real quick sudden discharge of the water out of the tank, as there should be with low gallon flush toilets? Also, is the water level in the tank up to the marked water line (or within 1/2 -1 inch of the top of the overflow?). Is the flapper staying open enough to allow the right amount of water out of the tank into the bowl? Will holding open the flapper by hand for longer, make the flush better? (Careful you do not overflow onto the floor!!!). Did you have clorine tablets or anything in the toilet tank, that went down the flapper hole? Do you have young kids? Tampons are to never be disposed of down toilets, as the strings can hang up not just in the toilet's built-in trap, but even dangle below, upsetting the syphon flush(had that already!). Procedures if necessary: Drain out the water in the bowl and sponge out the rest. Any object that floats has a better chance of dropping back into the bowl. Inspect with mechanics mirror and flashlight up in the toilet hole that leads to the trap. If you see nothing, then toilet auger(snake) the bowl. I doubt you'd have lime blocking rim and jet holes, this soon. Trial test flush using wet wads of TP. If the TP does not go down, likely something in the toilet. Then it be time to pull the toilet, perhaps take it outside on the lawn (and draw a neighborhood crowd the way I recently did. ), and toilet auger from both directions. If you take the toilet outside to work on it right side up and upside down, take off the seat first! They can suddenly flop down and crack the toilet tank. (Take it from me. ) Trial flush up on blocks of wood outside or on a 5 gallon pail. Do not reinstall that toilet till you fill the tank and trial flush using 2 or 3 wet wads of tp that will go down. Do that test at least 3 times back to back to back.
Well we installed the 1.28 in our cabin last weekend to replace an older model Kohler. I was quite skeptical at the store while talking to the mgr. about this toilet. We wanted something that would flush more quickly and use less water. I have to be honest if this toilet continues to function like it did after installation it was the best deal I have ever made. We kept and installed our seat because the one that comes with the 1.28 is pretty cheesy, but for the cost we are really happy with this purchase. Lifetime warranty how can you go wrong? It was a breeze to install as well. Thanks HD Jim
We have bought and installed 2 of these units - due to 1) their 10 efficiency rating; 2) the flapperless design in the water tank; and 3) the price paid. $49 each. Yes, brand new at Home Depot for that price! Installation is no more difficult or easier than any other toilet. We rated the item extremely high w/ Home Depot after the first purchase/installation. However ... more now needs to be said. The 2nd unit, while looking exactly like the first, had the flushing water tank reversed, so the water emptied towards the rear of the tank rather than the front. And that makes it not as efficient at flushing. We regularly have to flush it twice, even 3 times. Knocks the hell out of its 10 rating, forshur. This morning, the plastic flush handle broke - this after about 5 months of use (by a family of 2 adults) - and we need to find if Home Depot can offer a fix. Further about Glacier Bay. Number 2 tends to adhere to the porcelain(?) coating of the bowl, often making multiple flushes necessary (in addition to the above issue). And the Glacier Bay padded toilet seat, purchased as an option for the 2nd unit, broke free of its screw mounts shortly after instllation, which H.D. kindly agreed to replace (contrary to their stated policy of no return on seats); then the replacement broke apart too. Do NOT invest in a padded GB seat! If u find a GB toilet w/a a forward emptying water reservoir, consider it (especially if u can get one at the price we paid). But we really do question the mertis of 10 rating assigned to it by H.D.
I just purchased and installed this Glacer bay toilet and am very dissappointed in it. The bowl will not hold water. it fills up to a point then drains back out. I will return it tomorrow. The shape of the inside of this bowl needs plenty water or several flushes will not clean it. To much area to soil that does not have water for cleaning or catching solids. It is to long for a childs use. And probably and adults also. would not advise the purchase of this toilet...
Beeta, welcome to the forums! While it is best to start your own thread, no harm done. Mods may move our comments to a new one. Take the GB toilet back. Look, you only make this purchase once or twice in a lifetime, so you need to go big or stay on the porch. American Standard Champion 4 will cost a little more, but you won't have the flushing problem, nor a clog problem. I think once you look at the flush ratings of the different toilets, you will see the GB toilet is low man, probably 3 or 4 out of 10.
I think this thread has run it's course and is now closed.
Tags: glacier, toilets, this toilet, toilet before, hold water, more than, thoughts suggestions, venting issue, water bowl, water level, water level, water tank
Had an interesting happening this week. I thought the power steering pump had gone south on my Ram 3500 Cummins. No power steering, no power brakes. I was prepared to buy a new pump and put the PITA in. Found out luckily power steering fluid aerates and begins to thicken like motor oil. With the new found thickness the pump can't work it through the system and locks it up. So for those who have high mileage vehicles, keep an eye on your fluid level and inspect the color and viscosity. I was able to suction it out 5 or 6 times, refilling in between. It finally broke free and steering and brakes are restored. Turkey baster $2.50; 2 quarts power steering fluid $8; restored steering and brakes without spending $300 and 5 hours changing pump PRICELESS!! No questions, just for information.
i have seen similar situations many times. p/s fluid will get low from normal/minor seepage - then a cold front comes through,the fluid contracts / the level drops too low to function the customer assumes he has developed a 'leak' overnite. same with brake fluid-normal pad wear will cause the fluid to slowly drop-no one ever tops it off. / cold front comes through- the brake lite abs lite come on/ they have an entended warranty are mad that i cant find a warrantable problem
Yeah, same scenario. I figured the pump wasn't truly at fault since it was puking out fluid from the cap. In essence it was pressurized by something. And it happened the night it snowed 12 right when I needed the 4wd and six tires on the ground. Thanks for the confirmation.
Tags: power, steering, pump, power steering, cold front, cold front comes, front comes, power steering fluid, steering brakes, steering fluid
Please be gentle, I am new around here. I am building a structure that is 22'X24', 12' ft high with a 20'w by 11'h opening (on the 22' side) that will have a curtain. Flat roofed. 2 egress doorways at the back The structure is to be used as a spray booth. As such the majority of the space will only support some fluorescent light fixtures (6 to 8 in roof and 3 to 4 on each side) and it is in another building to which I can guy the roof off of overhead beams, that part I have no problem with. The interior and roof will be lined with thin plywood. I have two issues. The first is that I have to support a approx 300lb fan unit in the front 3ft over the doorway, centered in the 20 foot opening. Do I need to purchase manufactured beams (2 I would presume) to support this or would the be another way? The next is I was thinking I could use 2x6 for the walls as 2x4 I would think to be too light weight over the entire building and 2x8 and 2x12 would take up too much room. Am I on the right track? Do I need to reconsider what I use where the fan is? Glad I found this site before starting.
Welcome to the forums! In what position will that fan be .....down or out? The total unsupported opening will need help, not only for the fan, but for it's own ability to stand alone. The opening will probably need triple LVL beams, bolted to each other across and supported sufficiently at each end in order to keep from sagging or collapsing. 2x6 walls would be sufficient as you will need to accommodate some form of insulation with paint resistive shell or finished interior walls, since I am sure you get cold up there.
Just want to add, I have had one experience building a commercial building for an auto repair shop and the town would not issue a permit if it included any painting. Plus my insurance company, as I was renting to the shop, specifically excluded coverage if painting was to be part of the operation. Not sure what is required in your area but check if you need. Bud
Why not support that big fan from the building's overhead beams? Just make sure they are capable of carrying the extra concentrated load. If you tell us what the beams are made of, their size, length and spacing and how far away from where you want the fan to be, maybe we can help in that area.
My workshop was built with 2x12s on 16 centers for the ceiling joists. 28 feet long, 24 of which spans the inside of the workshop unsupported and holds the lighting, air conditioning ducting, electrical service, air lines, and the foamed roof over plywood. My guess is that if you went with a Gambrel roof that you could do it with less material weight, though obviously with more cutting and joints.
-- Please be gentle, I am new around here. -- can you post a pic where you want you fan to be installed? I'm just assuming that if it's pure steel then a 300lbs fan is still light..
Tags: building, shed, spray, booth, around here, gentle around, gentle around here, opening will, overhead beams, Please gentle, Please gentle around, Please gentle around here, walls would, where want
Hello, I bought the Ademco Vista-20SE and decided to install it myself. (Mistake?). Everything is wireless except for the 6139 keypad. Right now I'm just mapping out my zones but I'm finding that I need help. Here is what I'm thinking: Zone 1: Type 01 (Entry/Exit) - Perimeter Doors Qty 3 - 5816 Door/Window Detector Qty 1 - 5818 Recessed Door The issue here is that I want two of the doors to have delay for the purpose of exiting. So, do I need to put the other two doors on a seperate zone? Zone 2: Type 03 (Perimeter Burglary) - Perimeter Windows Qty 3 - 5816 Door/Window Detector Qty 2 - 5849 Glass Break Detector Zone 3: Type 10 (Interior w/delay) - Interior Motion Qty 3 - 5890PI Motion Detector Zone 4: Type 09 (Supervised Fire) Qty 3 - 5808LST Smoke Detector I also have the 6128RF keypad with built-in wireless transceiver. Questions: 1) Do I need to pick different zones since my devices are wireless? 2) Does the 6128RF keypad need to be hardwired to the control panel? I have installed the panel with a dedicated phone line. The 6139 keypad is wired directly to the panel. I also have a copy of the Compass Downloader software but I'm not sure whether the modem I have will work. Its listed as a Generic 56K HCF Data Fax Modem in my Windows XP control panel. I was hoping that even if I wasn't able to download to the security system, I would get a better understanding of set the various fields. However, the software does not live up to my expectations. Any help you can give me to get this thing up and running would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. TAK
Wireless zones are all separate zones - no choice there. You can't combine them. Yes, the 6128RF keypad must be wired to the panel, just like the other keypad. I doubt your modem will work with the Compass Downloader software - it takes specific modems to make it work properly. Good luck!
Tags: ademco, Zone Type, 6128RF keypad, 5816 Door, 5816 Door Window, 5816 Door Window Detector, 6139 keypad, also have, Compass Downloader, Compass Downloader software, control panel
Install a vinyl fence in place of chain link for more privacy.
Vinyl fences combine the durability of chain-link with the privacy of wood. The vinyl slats can withstand almost any type of weather and generally last for more than 10 years. When you buy your fence installation kit, you will have the option of using pre-formed vinyl panels or individual vinyl pickets.
Instructions
1. Check the installation instructions for your fence or use a tape measure to determine the distance between each fence post. Walk along your proposed fence line and mark each post by driving a stake into the ground. Check the line of your fence by looping string around the top of each stake. Adjust the position of the stakes as needed to keep the line straight.
2. Measure the length of a fence post. Divide this number by three and add one foot to find the proper depth for your post holes. Remove the stakes and dig a hole at each marked location with a shovel or post hole digger.
3. Line the bottom 6 to 12 inches of each hole with sand or gravel to prevent water from pooling at the bottom of the fence posts. Ask an assistant to hold the post straight as you pour the concrete around it. Stop pouring when the concrete level is about three inches below the top of the hole. Pour water into the hole until the concrete is saturated. Check the instructions on the product label for the recommended amount of water. This is generally one gallon of water for each 50 pounds of concrete. Allow the concrete to dry before continuing with your fence installation.
4. Start at one end of the fence and place locking rings into the ends of one bottom rail piece. Attach the rail to the fence posts by squeezing the tabs of the locking ring to compress it, then releasing the tabs when the ring is inserted into the slot on the post. Repeat this step until every section of the fence has a bottom rail.
5. Follow the same procedure as above to install the middle rails for each section of fence. Make sure the holes in the middle rail are facing down.
6. Install the vinyl pickets or panels according to the installation instructions in your fence kit. If you are using pickets, you might have to take out the middle rail while you install the pickets into the bottom rail.
7. Check your local regulations to make sure you do not need a building permit to install a vinyl fence. Make sure there are no underground utility lines in the area where you will be digging. A local building department or locater service may have a master database of utility lines so you do not have to call each utility company individually.
A breast biopsy is the only way to give a complete diagnosis of breast cancer. A biopsy is done through a needle or surgically, depending on the mass. The doctor will take samples of cell and/or tissue to send to a pathologist to determine if cancer is present. This type of procedure isn't done unless the physician and patient feel there is a reason for it.
Examination
Breast self examination (BSE) and clinical breast examination (CBE) are both used as screening tools for problems in the breast. If a woman feels a lump or an unusual thickening in the breast, it is best to get it checked by a health professional. If the doctor feels that the change in the breast is suspicious, a breast biopsy may be suggested to investigate the area further.
Mammography
The American Cancer Society recommends that all women begin getting yearly mammograms at age 40 (sooner if there is a family history of the disease). A mammogram can identify abnormalities before they are felt by patient or physician. A radiologist will go over the mammogram and check the abnormalities, issuing a report to the doctor. A suspicious finding in a mammogram may lead to a breast biopsy.
Sonogram
An ultrasound (sonogram) is often done in conjunction with a mammogram or to further investigate its findings. The sonogram can give a slightly different picture of the breast and identify cysts, which are and fluid-filled. If a suspicious area cannot be identified as a benign cyst, a breast biopsy is a possible next step in identifying the problem.
MRI
An MRI is a used as an additional tool of identifying potential breast cancer, especially in high risk patients and those who have already had breast cancer surgery. A MRI can locate many small tumors that are not found on a mammogram. An MRI can also show enlarged lymph nodes, a possible indication of cancer. MRI findings may lead to a breast cancer. In addition, MRIs are also used during biopsy to help guide the doctor to the area in question.
Symptoms
A breast biopsy may be suggested if there are obvious symptoms in the breast which could indicate cancer. These include: unusual discharge; changes in the nipple; dimpling of the skin; or crusting/scaling on the breast. A very red or swollen breast can also indicate the presence of inflammatory breast cancer, a rare but deadly form of the disease that moves aggressively and needs to be biopsied and identified quickly.
Did you try to move the immovable by pushing, twisting, bending, lifting, pulling and straining in ways you never thought possible? Now you have a terrible pain in your back. But don't worry, there are several home remedies that you can employ to get you back from that back attack.
Instructions
1. Lie down for a day or two. The only thing you will want to do is lay in bed for a few days, and you should. Your body needs time to recover, so keep activity to a minimum for a couple of days.
2. Cool down your flaming back pain with ice. Ice helps to reduce strain and swelling on back muscles. For best results, massage the area with ice for seven or eight minutes, three times a day for the first couple of days.
3. Get out of bed as soon as the pain begins to subside. The length of your bed rest will depend on the level of severity of your injury; so, if you are still hurting after two days, it doesn't hurt to rest another day. However, lounging too long can do you more harm than good.
4. Relieve your pain with heat after the first few days of ice. Use a soft towel and place it in a basin of warm water and wring it out. Lie chest down with support under your hips and ankles and place the towel on your back. Put some plastic wrap over the towel to hold in the heat and place a heating pad on top, set to medium heat.
Tips Warnings
Some back pain will not respond to home remedies and will require a visit to the doctor. If you experience pain for no apparent reason or have other symptoms like fever, stomach ache, chest pain or difficulty breathing, or if your pain last more than two weeks without relief, see a doctor.
You can salvage your favorite boots by replacing the sole.
Wolverine boots are one of the most popular boot choices for men in blue-collar industries. Whether you are a construction worker, a miner or a locomotive engineer, there is a good chance that you have donned a pair of these trusty durable boots. Wolverine has been making boots for more than 125 years, since 1883. Wolverine started in Michigan and became famous for its 1000 Mile Boot line in 1914. Ever since, the company has been a leader in the work boot industry. Too often, however, the soles of these great boots are ruined while the boot is still perfectly good. When this happens, there is a better option than buying a new boot. Replacing the soles on your Wolverine boots is a great way to get the most out of these tough shoes' long life while saving money.
Instructions
1. Examine the sole of your boot and determine where there are stitches and use your razor blade to cut them. Locate the nails in the bottom of the boot and, if there are any, use the nail puller and hammer to pry them out. Save the nails for the new sole.
2. Use your razor blade to cut the sole away from the boot. Once you have cut the perimeter of the sole free, use the razor blade, screwdriver and small flat bar to pry and cut away the sole from the rubber or leather padding.
3. Clean away all the residue on the leather padding of the boot using the cloth rag and the acetone.
4. Take the coarse sandpaper and sand the leather padding to increase the effectiveness of your adhesive. Put on gloves to wipe away dust from the leather padding.
5. Apply flexible shoe adhesive liberally to the full surface of the leather padding on the bottom of the shoe. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the adhesive.
6. Place the new sole onto the bottom of the shoe over the adhesive, starting with the front of the shoe and laying it down until the heel is set on the adhesive. Pound the sole vigorously with the hammer to ensure that it is in place. Wrap the shoe with two or three zip ties and pull them tight to hold the sole firmly in place while the adhesive sets.
7. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 to replace the sole on your second boot.
8. Let the adhesive dry for 24 hours and then use the hammer to replace any nails that belong in the soles of your boots.
Tips Warnings
Use the necessary precautions when using your razor blade so that you do not cut yourself. Always use acetone in a well-ventilated area to avoid the dangerous fumes that acetone gives off.
Most, but not all, sinks come equipped with a built-in sink sprayer. If that is the case with your sink, you can purchase a hose and sprayer head and attach it to the end of your faucet. You can use the sink sprayer for just about anything that requires water, including washing and rinsing food and cleaning dishes and the sink itself. After lots of daily use, many sink sprayers develop a buildup of mineral deposits and become clogged or the hose cracks or leaks. That's when it's time to remove the sprayer from the faucet and replace it with a new one.
Instructions
1. Turn the water supply off at the sink.
2. Unscrew the sprayer head from the attached hose. Turn it counterclockwise to remove it. If mineral deposits around the threads of the sprayer head made it difficult for you to pull off, soak the sprayer head in a 50-50 solution of white vinegar and water.
3. Check the diverter valve on the spray head while you have it off. Look for rust or corrosion on the diverter valve to determine if it is causing low water pressure through the spray head aerator.
4. Unscrew the hose from the faucet lip and drain it. Examine the hose for cracks or leaks. Look all up and down the length of the rubber hose to make sure it's in good condition.
5. Reinstall the hose on the faucet if it is in good working condition by screwing it back on. If it's not, replace it with a new hose.
6. Reinstall the spray head to the hose by screwing it back onto the hose. If it is too damaged from mineral deposits, replace it with a new hose.
Tips Warnings
If the sprayer head has so much mineral deposits on it that you can't remove it, use adjustable pliers to remove it. Grip it around the nut on the sprayer, and turn countercolockwise to remove. You might want to put tape over the head of the sprayer first to avoid damaging the head with the pliers.
Placing a sliding weight on the new hose will help prevent tangles.
New dentures can often be problematic, but with time, it will become much easier to wear them.
It's pretty traumatic to have your teeth removed, much less getting used to new false teeth. Dentures can cause slurred speech, clacking, cause sore spots, and can occasionally gag the new wearer. All of these problems will become considerably less problematic over time, but if you'd like to have an easier time adjusting to your new dentures, consider following a few simple tips that will make it easier for your transition from real teeth to your new dentures.
Instructions
1. Wear your dentures for a short period of time each day. More than likely, your gums are sore from teeth extraction and you may also have stitches that need to heal. Give yourself time to adjust by wearing them a bit more each day.
2. Take small bites and stick to foods that do not require a hard bite. It's best to stick to easy foods when you are starting out.
3. Practice talking with your dentures in private before wearing them out in public. Talking with dentures takes a little getting used to. Repeating words will help you enunciate more clearly with your new teeth.
4. Check your expectations. Just like anything new, dentures take practice and you'll find that they feel considerably more natural with a little more wear.
5. Take care when cleaning your dentures until you get used to them. You can soak them or scrub them yourself, but be sure to put water in the sink so if you drop them, they will only fall in the water and not break against the sink's surface.
6. Sleep with your dentures in your mouth for the first few nights to get used to them a little faster.
Tips Warnings
Don't hesitate to tell your dentist about discomforts. They are expecting you to talk to them about any adjustments you need and will be more than willing to make changes in your dentures for a more comfortable fit.
Stock shares can be great gifts for the holidays. It's a good way to give a friend or family member money without using cash, which can be seen as tacky, and there is a good chance that the stock's value will increase over time. Also, it is a great gift for those hard to shop for people who seem to have everything. By making a direct purchase, you can also save on some of the fees typically associated with purchasing stock.
Instructions
1. Choose the stock you'd like to buy. Whether you want to buy a big money stock or just one that fits well with the recipient's personality, the easiest way to start is to find direct purchase stocks (or DPPs) online. Not all companies sell their stock in this fashion, but there are hundreds of companies that do. One good place to find a list is at sharebuilder.com.
2. Set up an online trading account. It is possible to contact the company directly but much easier to set up an account with Sharebuilder, eTrade or a similar clearinghouse, especially if you plan to buy stock from more than one company. Simply go the respective website and register. There will be step by step instructions to help you.
3. Purchase the stock. Once you're signed into your account, there should be instructions on make your purchases. It will basically be the same process you use to buy other goods and services over the Internet. However additional steps may be required to verify your identity.
4. Transfer the stock to the recipient's name. Remember, you want the recipient to be able to sell his or her stock, so you should not leave it in your name. All you need to do is tell the company that sold you the shares that you would like to make a transfer. You can either call the customer service number or look for shareholder services or a similar link on their website to make contact electronically. Be prepared to provide the name, Social Security number and birth date for the new owner.
5. Once you've transferred stock into the name of the recipient, ask the company to send you a paper certificate. This is what you will wrap up and give as the gift. Feel free to frame it or package it as you see fit. Some certificates look better on the wall than others. For example, DreamWorks stock has a picture of Shrek on the front of it, which is perfect for a child's bedroom.
Tips Warnings
Ordering stock directly is usually cheaper than going through an individual broker, but this may not be the case if you already have a well-established brokerage account. If you don't want to go through all of these steps and you'd like to purchase just one share of stock, sites like Frame a Stock or One Share will take care of everything for you, from the initial stock purchase to putting your certificate in a matted frame with a personalized inscription.
When deciding what to order, don't consider only the price of the stock share itself. There will also be transfer fees and possibly other charges. Shop around the different rates to find the most affordable option. Be aware that money invested in the stock market is not guaranteed or insured in any way. Don't wait until the last minute. This process could take a couple weeks or more.
Relaying information to a large audience is challenging. From passing out notes to using an overhead projector, there are a variety of tools you can use to try to make the information clear to your audience. One way you can relay information to your audience is by creating a presentation on your laptop and displaying it with your Optoma projector. To connect a Optoma projector to your laptop, you don't need to hire an audio/video specialist or install any additional software on your laptop. The Optoma projector includes a cable to make the connection possible.
Instructions
1. Turn off your laptop computer, if it is on.
2. Plug one end of a VGA cable into the VGA port on the back of the Optoma projector. The VGA cable is included with the Optoma projector.
3. Plug the other end of the VGA cable into the VGA port on the side or back of your laptop. If using a Mac, plug the other end of the VGA cable into the VGA port on the side of a DVI to VGA adapter. Plug a DVI cable into the DVI port on the other side of the DVI to VGA adapter. Plug the other end of the DVI cable into the DVI port on the back or side of your Mac laptop.
4. Plug one end of a 1/8-inch audio cable into the Audio port on the back of the Optoma projector.
5. Plug the other end of the 1/8-inch audio cable into the Audio or Headphone port on the back or side of your laptop.
6. Turn on the Optoma projector by pressing the Power button on the projector. The projector will take about a minute to start up.
7. Turn on your laptop. Your computer may auto-detect the projector. You will see your laptop's display projected through the Optoma projector. If you don't see your laptop's display, press the function key on your laptop's keyboard that activates the VGA port on your laptop. Consult with your laptop's manual for more information.
8. Use the Audio buttons on the Optoma projector to adjust the audio transmitted from your laptop.
Tips Warnings
To adjust the projected image, move the cart the Optoma projector is sitting on.
To turn off your Optoma projector, press the Power button twice. Wait until the cooling fan stops before unplugging the projector.
The thermostat in your Amana freezer regulates the internal temperature and prevents food from getting too warm. You can easily change the thermostat in your Amana freezer to a warmer or cooler setting via the control dial. Your freezer should ideally be at or below 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 degrees Celsius) for ideal food storage conditions. You should change the thermostat if your freezer compartment is too warm.
Instructions
1. Open the freezer and locate the thermostat dial on the side wall. The thermostat dial has several numbers and icons printed around the edge.
2. Turn the dial until 4 is lined up with the mark. This setting keeps the internal temperature just below the recommended 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 degrees Celsius).
3. Turn the dial to the Fast Freeze (Igloo icon) position before loading a large amount of food. The motor will run continuously to quickly bring down the temperature. You should turn the dial back to 4 after 48 hours.
4. Close the freezer door. Temperature changes will take about 24 hours to take effect.
Tips Warnings
Purchase a freezer thermometer to better regulate the internal temperature. The number markings correspond to a cooling level and not a particular temperature.
The 2011 Sportster XR1200X combines classic Harley-Davidson engineering with contemporary styling.
The Sportster XR1200 has long been one of Harley-Davidson's most popular motorcycle models. In the 2011 model year, the XR1200 has undergone major changes. The XR1200X has traded in its chrome for a satin black finish that has been applied even to the major engine and exhaust components. Black aluminum rims with an orange highlight complete a look that attempts to evoke brooding urban sophistication.
Engine and Transmission
The XR1200X features an air-cooled Evolution engine with a capacity of 73.3 cubic inches. Its bore is 3.5 inches and its stroke is 3.812 inches. Its compression ratio is 10.0:1. Fuel delivery is via electronic sequential port fuel injection. The engine produces 73.91 foot-pounds of torque at 4,000 rpm.
The bike's drive train utilizes a five-speed manual transmission and belt drive.
Chassis and Suspension
The XR1200X is equipped with an inverted 43-millimeter Showa fork with adjustable shocks. The rear suspension employs 36-millimeter Showa shock absorbers. Adjustments can be made to the suspension's preload and compression damping.
Wheels and Brakes
The three-spoke cast aluminum wheels have a matte black finish with an orange pinstripe. Stopping power is provided by a dual-disc, four-piston caliper brake on the front wheel and a single-piston caliper disc brake on the rear. The wheels are mounted with a 120/70ZR18 tire on the front and a 180/55ZR17 tire on the rear.
Dimensions
The XR1200X has a length of 87.6 inches, a wheelbase of 60 inches, a seat height of 31.3 inches, and ground clearance of 5.9 inches. Curb weight is 573 pounds, and fuel capacity is 3.5 gallons.
Dogs with Cushing's disease can lead a normal life with medication
With symptoms like calcified skin lumps and abdominal enlargement, canine Cushing's disease sounds almost as painful for man's best friend as it does for the owner to watch. A disease with several causes (some easier to treat than others), Cushing's can occur in both canines and humans. Regardless of how many legs the afflicted walks upon, it is important to seek immediate treatment or Cushing's could result in fatal consequences.
Definition
Canine Cushing's disease, also known as hyperadrenocorticism, is the overproduction of adrenal hormone, usually corticosteroids, reports VetInfo.com. Cushing's disease can occur naturally or be brought on by an over-administration of corticosteroids such as prednisone, used to treat autoimmune diseases in dogs. The supplemented corticosteroids can be reduced and the symptoms of Cushing's disease will fade with time.
Causes
The most common cause of canine Cushing's disease is pituitary dependent hyperadrenocorticism. It accounts for 85 percent of all afflicted dogs. This occurs when the pituitary gland excretes an excess amount of the hormone ACTH. A microadenoma (benign, microscopic tumor) will normally form in the pituitary gland and produce great amounts of ACTH, which in turn causes the adrenal glands to produce large amounts of cortisol. The pituitary gland, due to the disease, is unable to respond to the high cortisol levels.
In roughly 10 percent of canine Cushing's disease sufferers, adrenal-based hyperadrenocorticism is the culprit. On one of the two adrenal glands, a tumor develops, continuing to produce cortisol even if the ACTH hormone levels drop.
Symptoms
Symptoms include increased water consumption and urination (80 to 85 percent increase), hair loss, excessive panting, thinning of skin (also known as papering), increased or insatiable appetite, abdominal enlargement, weakening of the heart and muscles, and calcinosis cutis or calcified skin lumps.
Diagnosis
Cushing's disease can be positively diagnosed by a complete blood count, urinalysis or blood chemistry panel though often don't provide a definitive diagnosis. Another diagnostic tool is the ultrasound. The low dose dexamethasone suppression test is also a commonly used test. During this test, a dog is given several low doses of dexamethasone. After eight hours, cortisol levels are tested. In a dog that has Cushing's disease, there will be no change in cortisol levels; however, a healthy dog will show an obvious decrease when tested. Over 90 percent of dogs with Cushing's disease will have no response to the dexamethasone, making this test very accurate.
Treatment
In December 2008, the FDA produced the first drug in more than 10 years to treat canine Cushing's disease. Vetoryl Capsules were the latest drug to be approved to treat canine Cushing's disease. It is the first drug approved to treat the disease in both the pituitary and adrenal glands. The medication works by stopping the production of cortisol in the adrenal glands. Common side effects included vomiting, lack of energy, diarrhea and weight loss.
The FDA reports that the naturally occurring Cushing's disease can be treated with medication but can only be cured with surgery. If the disease is in the adrenal gland and the tumor hasn't spread, the tumor should be removed. There is no surgery that can be done on the pituitary gland yet. The only other FDA-approved medication to treat canine Cushing's disease: Anipryl. It is used only to treat uncomplicated, pituitary-depended Cushing's disease.
Is it legal to secure two Romex cables through one connector? Can Romex be stapled on top of another? Thanks Bill
If the connector is listed for multiple cables it will state the sizes and number on the packaging. If the staple is listed for multiple cables, see above, you can staple 2 flat cables flat to the stud. The cables cannot be stapled on edge.
Depends on connector size and romex size. I have seen 2 pair of 12/2 romex coming in through one connector (can't recall if it was 1/2 or not). And yes you can staple multiple pairs under one staple. Make sure you have the correct length staple and don't overdrive it, no one is going to be yanking on them
Originally Posted by chopnhack Depends on connector size and romex size. I have seen 2 pair of 12/2 romex coming in through one connector (can't recall if it was 1/2 or not). And yes you can staple multiple pairs under one staple. Make sure you have the correct length staple and don't overdrive it, no one is going to be yanking on them No, as pcboss stated, it depends on the U.L. listing. What we typically think of as a 3/8 romex connector that fits in a 7/8 Dia hole (1/2 K.O.) is generally not listed for more than ONE NM cable. There are however, duplex connectors that are U.L. listed to accept TWO NM cables and these connectors also fit one 1/2 K.O. As far as the staples, regardless of length, I haven't seen a cable staple that was U.L. listed for more than ONE NM cable, but I am not saying there aren't some out there. I'd be interested in seeing one that is listed for more than one cable. By the way, 2 pair of 12-2 romex cables would be 4 romex cables.
Originally Posted by CasualJoe I'd be interested in seeing one that is listed for more than one cable. By the way, 2 pair of 12-2 romex cables would be 4 romex cables. Halex this is a 3/8 connector rate for 2 cables When I said two pair, I didn't mean 4 cables, only 2 complete 12/2 cables. I will have to go check what I was looking at today. It had multiple 12/2 romex running through it. The knockouts were no bigger than 1/2, but I'm pretty sure I saw a few 2x cables run through some clamp style connectors.
CJ, peruse this link. Check the SN 150 listing. Briscon Products - STAPLES In my experience most NM connectors are good for 2 flat 14-2 or 12-2 NM cables. Only one round cable per connector. Again the package needs to be checked.
Originally Posted by chopnhack Halex this is a 3/8 connector rate for 2 cables When I said two pair, I didn't mean 4 cables, only 2 complete 12/2 cables. I will have to go check what I was looking at today. It had multiple 12/2 romex running through it. The knockouts were no bigger than 1/2, but I'm pretty sure I saw a few 2x cables run through some clamp style connectors. Well, I guess I have to stand corrected. It just goes to show you how things change every day.
Many thanks to everyone who posted to answers my question. I'll check the connector's rating Also, staple length Bill
Originally Posted by pcboss CJ, peruse this link. Check the SN 150 listing. Briscon Products - STAPLES In my experience most NM connectors are good for 2 flat 14-2 or 12-2 NM cables. Only one round cable per connector. Again the package needs to be checked. I suppose we all can learn something new every day. I think I'll pass this info along to a few friends who do residential work.
Originally Posted by CasualJoe Well, I guess I have to stand corrected. It just goes to show you how things change every day. No need, you spoke from your experience as did I. Our experiences are different, not wrong. You are speaking to UL safety ratings, which is true. I was speaking from what I have seen done, not UL approved, but not necessarily unsafe either.
Originally Posted by chopnhack No need, you spoke from your experience as did I. Our experiences are different, not wrong. You are speaking to UL safety ratings, which is true. I was speaking from what I have seen done, not UL approved, but not necessarily unsafe either. Well, I have seen it too, but many years ago and I really don't think back then it was technically U.L. approved, but inspectors accepted it. Over the years I think the quality and education of inspectors has increased tremendously in most areas just like materials and approvals have also changed, it's actually not an easy thing to keep up with. Today you better know your codes and materials or you won't make it through a tough inspection.
True, true, mostly for insurance reasons. Manufacturers not wanting to pay out in case of an accident, or insurance companies not wanting to payout if they can prove a non-UL occurrence linked with the loss. I can't imagine how many homes and business around the US have code violations and non-UL approved methods/products in them w/o incident. Not saying its correct nor should we lower our standards just that its commonplace.
Tags: romex, cables, through, connector, Originally Posted, have seen, listed more, listed more than, listed more than cable, more than, more than cable, than cable, that listed, cables will
Hi! I hope you can help us. We have a Sears Roper 10hp 32 snowblower model 610-S27 with a Tecumseh motor. It has 5 fwd and 1 reverse speeds. It has been running in the recent past but backfires regularly. Today it was sputtering and quit. After cleaning the spark plug it started and ran for 20 minutes, backfiring frequently and then quit again. Now we can't get it started at all. We do not have a manual as we bought this blower used and haven't been able to find a manual. Any help you can give would certainly be appreciated. This is our first snowblower so we're green when it comes to troubleshooting. Thanks!
dianemarg First thing to do is replace the spark plug, it may be nearing the end of it's life and when it is under the cylinder pressure, it may be breaking down.Also how old is the gas, you MUST use fresh gas. Anything older than 30 days should be put in your car or vehicle or disposed of in an appropriate manner. If after doeing this, you still have the problem, you may have to look at carbeuration as the culprit. Let us know. snoman
Thanks Snoman! We'll try that and get back to you. We live rural so it may be a week before we can get to the city to pick up that spark plug. Thanks for your help!
Thanks so much Snoman! We replaced the sparkplug and the snowblower started purring like a kitten! We have taken note regarding the gas issue though and will be careful about that as well. Take care and thanks again for all your help!
Tags: sears, roper, 10hp, snowblower, running, spark plug, Roper 10hp, Sears Roper, Sears Roper 10hp, your help
Would anyone know if they make a programmable switch to turn on and off a hot water tank. 240Volts and 4500 watts of max power. I live in an area with smart meters and would like it to turn off just before peak rate and turn on once the lower rate kicks in. Preferrably 7 day. I don't need it to switch on temperature, I want it to switch at certain times. Appreciate your help.
Just do a search for water heater timer...there's a bunch of them. They will avg about $50 usd....will you really be able to recover the cost of the timer and install hardware? Peak rates are normally during the day, yes? A WH that fills and warms up before peak time, will probably never turn on for 10-12 hrs anyway unless it is used. And minimal usage (washing hands, etc) that do cause it to turn on, it will only be on for a few minutes....probably $.10 worth of electricity or less.
Intermatic model EH40 is a digital/electronic version and model WH40 is a mechanical version. The digital one is a couple bucks more than the mechanical, but they're both around $50.
If you get a timer, be sure it can remember the settings when the power goes out. It is not something you remember to check daily and when the times are wrong you can pay double. Speaking from experience ARGHH! Bud
I have the Intermatic EH40 which is digital, 7 day or each day, and has battery backup. Quite happy with it. I heat the water from 5 am to 5:55 am, then off until 5 am the next day. So I have hot water for a shower, then warm water the rest of the day after that. Using warm water instead of hot saves $$. (As well as running only during off-peak.) Also this timer has a button on the cover. You can turn on the water heater at any time. Like in the summer I might need two showers in one day. I just push the button for more hot water, then wait a bit. Or for Thanksgiving and lots of dishes, press that button! Here is one... http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EH4.../dp/B000NCYPOM
Tags: programmable, water, tank, before peak, turn water, warm water, water heater
As I was removing the 1225 cartridge with the puller tool, it came out suddenly and I did not see how the holes were oriented. Do the two large holes at the back end line up with the hot and cold inlet pipes ? If so, how do I get the cartridge in further so the ears are in far enough to insert the horseshoe clip ?
look inside and make sure there are no rubber pieces in the body. Pic them out if neccesary. The holes aim right and left. Make sure the hole in the stem is pointing down before you put the handle on.
I just replaced mine in my kitchen faucet a few days ago. I couldn’t get the 1225 at HD (they were out) but I got a universal replacement that looks identical. I didn’t have a puller but I got that little plastic cap that comes with the new cartridge that helped me wiggle out the old, then wiggle in the new cartridge. If you look at the top of the cartridge you will see 2 cutouts. That cutout opening should face toward the front when you push the new cartridge all the way down and in. Then you can push that horseshoe retainer clip straight through the opening all the way through to and through the opening in the back. The little plastic cap pushes down onto the top of the cartridge and fits down into the 2 cutouts I mentioned above and locks in and gives you a way to twist the cartridge back and forth. That is, the top of the cap is square which allows you to put a wrench on it and thus you can wiggle the cartridge all the way down and orient it so that cutout I mentioned is facing front. If you don’t have that little plastic cap I think you should be able somehow get vice grips or something on the top of the cartridge and twist and wiggle it down to the position I mentioned above. It wasn’t that hard to push the new cartridge down and in. Nowhere near as hard as pulling the old one out. I don’t think you have to worry about aligning any holes, that’s done by performing the procedure mentioned above. Just saw mike's post. p.s. Can't believe what a difference a new cartridge makes. So much easier to move the handle. WAIT WAIT WAIT!!! I just looked at my old cartridge and now I'm not certain whether the cutout on the cartridge faces front or to the side, which then allows you to push the retainer clip through. The faucet body has the cutout in the front but I can't remember whether you align the cutouts (faucet body and cartridge cutouts) or not. One of the 2 positions is correct, that's for sure. Sorry!! If I can remember I'll post back. Here's a good link. Moen refers to the things on top as ears. I was referring to between the ears LOL as cutouts. I think their link wil clarify my sort of muddled instructions. Installation Help / Animated Tutorials for Moen Faucet
I installed a moen 1225 cartridge in what I believe is a model #67425 kitchen faucet. the new cartridge stopped the drip problem. When I was done I noticed something about the bottom of the faucet didn't look right, but everything seemed to work perfectly. It started leaking at the bottom of the faucet. I didn't even take the bottom part off when I replaced the cartridge, but I must have knocked it off kilter. I bought an O-ring set, installed, still leaks. Im not sure I have the guts in correctly. I don't want to but a new faucet, what am I missing here?
I agree with the other poster. Make sure there is nothing additional in the tube. I did a video about the replacement process when I replaced my cartridge over the weekend. Moen Kitchen Faucet 1225 Cartridge Repair or Replacement - YouTube
Do I now need to re-insulate those pipes again with some other type of insulation in order to prevent allot of heat loss? Or will the heat loss versus cost be minimal
because of the newer and more efficient gas boilers? My house is very large and the amount
of footage needed to insulate all the horizontal pipes for all three floors using fiberglass insulation would be very expensive. Especially if purchasing the fiberglass at retail!
Any advice out there regarding this issue and/or advice as to were to get a deal on fiberglass insulation?
Thanks
Check out: Steam FAQ
There is also a lot of information on steam systems here: Technical Menu
With steam the insulation on the pipes is not so much one of heat loss itself... but of the fact that you want the STEAM to remain STEAM until it gets to it's destination. If the steam pipes aren't insulated, yes they will lose heat... and some of the steam will condense back to water. You don't want that.
heat loss is dramatic through un-insulated steel pipe. for the sake of talking, if you have a 2 and a half inch steam main, every linear foot will emit about 270 btuh, throw a 1 thick piece of insulation on it and it drops to less than 50 btuh. so if your losing that much heat your steam will prematurely condense causing water hammer, unsatisfactory heating and possible spitting vents. insulate your lines!!!
Two other tings to think about when discussing un-insulated mains.
One is the cost. When you heat your water to 212f you now have 212f water. It does not convert to steam until you add another 970 btu's. That's right 970 btu's to change state from a liquid to a vapor. The is 5 times the energy it would take to raise water from 35f to 212f. So you send 212f steam into the piping and it collapses back into condensate and return to the boiler as water. It than needs to be reheated to 212f and then change to a vapor.
You end up with more water in the system as RDSTEAM stated which may cause the system to flood due to low boiler water due to the fact that too much water in up in the system less water in the boiler. This creates slower heating, higher fuel consumption and un-even heating.
I live just north of you near Lowell
How did you get such an efficient boiler from National Grid though? I just did this myself (they completed work last week) but the highest efficiency for steam boilers that they have is 82.1%. The Induced Draft/Power Vent go to 82.2%...
I need to insulate my pipes as well. Thankfully I have a one story ranch with an unfinished basement so I can get to them all easily.
Do you insulate them right up to the boiler? Or do you need to leave some space?
I have a feeling I'll have to either drive to multiple stores or make periodic trips to get enough insulation, they don't look to have that much in stock at any given time (home depot/lowe's, I assume they'll be cheaper).
i would purchase insulation from your nearest plumbing supply house. the depot or lowes will only carry 1/2 wall insulation. you want to get 1 wall.
Hi Geomancer,
Sorry I misspoke when I said 90% efficient!! The boilers are 82.2% or there about. As for the insulation, I'm not sure what I'm going to do, but I know I must insulate the main pipes. I had to remove the old insulation in order to reclaim my basement as a useable space. Were your pipes insulated before the conversion? Did you remove all of the insulation like I did? If so, then just re-insulate the same sections. That's what I'm gonna do. Mine had insulation right up to the boilers. I envy you because you only have a one story ranch, so that can't be that much insulation? I have a very large triple decker with 8 to 9 rooms each floor to heat. So I need many feet of insulation. I saw some bulk deals on Ebay briefly, but I didn't follow up yet. I will let you know what I found after I fully check it out o.k.?
Thanks for your reply!!
Hi RDSTEAM,
Thanks for the great advice as always, but most of the plumbing supply houses are wholesale outfits. I've checked online and I can't seem to find anything reasonable enough! I have a large 3 family and I measured the mains in the basement. I estimate (Roughly) that I will need approximately 375' ft. of 1.50 x 1.00 material and 60'-70' ft. of 2.00 x 1.00 material to cover all the mains. So you can see how expensive it will get fast!
Any other advice as to how do I get this stuff cheaper?
Thanks.......
Originally Posted by blakk
Hi RDSTEAM,
Thanks for the great advice as always, but most of the plumbing supply houses are wholesale outfits. I've checked online and I can't seem to find anything reasonable enough! I have a large 3 family and I measured the mains in the basement. I estimate (Roughly) that I will need approximately 375' ft. of 1.50 x 1.00 material and 60'-70' ft. of 2.00 x 1.00 material to cover all the mains. So you can see how expensive it will get fast!
Any other advice as to how do I get this stuff cheaper?
Thanks.......
not really, fiberglass insulation isn't really too cheap, whats it nowadays 7$ per section?? unfortunately its something the must be done. by not insulating you are adding an extra heating load to the boiler. along with that will come higher fuel bills, uneven heating and a noisy system. think of it this way, you buy it once and its good forever.(unless it gets wet)
Thanks RDSTEAM,
The truth always hurts, but it also makes you whole!! I knew it all along...I guess I was looking for someone to tell me it was O.K. to try and slide on by!!
You're the best!! Honestly!! You give the strait dope (Truth) always!! Thanks!
Anyways, I think I may have found a place close by that specializes in this type of material. They come highly recommended and seem to be always mentioned by plumbers and businesses I call for information.
Take Care RD
Hi GEOMANCER, try this place in Braintree...
[blakk, send this info to Geo in a private message... this isn't really allowed... sorry - NJT]
Peace........
Hello,
What abut using 4' bats of unfaced 3.5 fiberglass? Wrap it around with a half overlap, secure the starting end with a giant cable tie and keep wrapping. After, cover/wrap around the fibergalss with Reflectix and close the Reflectix seam with some nice aluminum tape for neat job. I'd bet it would provide more insualtion value than the super expensive stuff and at significantly lower cost.
Peter
Hi, I just converted to gas from oil..I have a large 3 family with an old single pipe steam radiator system. The new boilers are around 82% efficient. It was installed in the summer, so I'm only now starting to work out the bugs!!
The main problem I'm having is trying to eliminate the noise (water hammering) associated with a steam radiator system. I have tried all the standard remedies related to this problem. I have drained and refilled the boilers several times, keeping the water level a little above half in the sight glass. I have made sure that each and every radiator is pitched towards the valve. I have insulated all the mains in the basement with 1000 degree fiberglass steam pipe insulation. I have even changed many of the vents at the radiators. While these actions have help significantly in reducing the water hammering noise! They have not totally eliminated them!
Any recommendations out there as to what more I can do to completely eliminate this problem?
Thanks......
Blakk.......
Have you followed proper procedure to skim off oil found in new boilers, also check for proper near boiler piping and steam pressure setting.
Yes I have drained and refilled each boiler several times, (When cold of course) and thus have noticed a reduction in the amount of black colored water in the sight glass. However no matter how much I drain them, there still remains some discoloration of the water in the sight glass! I've heard some of that is a result of the increased temperature of the steam cleaning out the rust on the inner walls of the pipes, due to the higher efficiency of gas and the newer boilers!
I have solved most of the WH noise by properly pitching each and every radiator, and installing new vents on some of the radiators!
Also, I have fully insulated all the horizontal mains in the basement with 1 thick fiberglass steam pipe insulation.
There is still some minor noise when the steam first starts to rise...but it's a whole lot better!! It has been relatively warm so far up here in Boston, so until the real cold comes and the boilers are running longer and hotter! I can't say for sure that all the kinks have been worked out yet?
Thanks
To skim a steam boiler you need to install a nipple and valve at or near the water line ,heat the water 120f then add water until it flows out pipe.There are chemicals you can add that will sink the oil to the bottom of the boiler where it can be removed by draining boiler.
(Blakk - I Don't want to sidetrack, but I would love to know who you found to supply pipe insulation since I'm facing the same problem in the Boston area. Please PM me if you found a good source since it was edited out above. Thanks!!)
Boiler skimming must be done on new boiler jobs. See this link
Skimming a Steam Boiler
Hi Blakk, just a quick thought. You buy insulation once, you buy heating every day for at least 6 months.
Good Luck with it!
Jim
Thanks blakk - can you send me info on where to find some bulk fiberglass insulation? I am in the same exact situation as you are (multi-family with uninsulated black pipe). Thanks
After reading these posts I am wondering how much heat I am losing since I used the 1/2 insulation on many pipes?
Now to add to that, I do not have insulation on the joints. I have many tees and elbows especially those near the boiler that start out at 2-1/2 and are reduced to fit other pipes. How do I insulate the different types of connection joints? Do they sell insulation that is correct for this application because online everything for connections seems to be for water heater pipes not steam.
How much of a pitch is correct for the radiators, most of my radiators are level and I do hear the water hammering when the heat goes on?
Tags: insulating, steam, radiator, pipes, fiberglass insulation, heat loss, mains basement, that much, that will, have large, have large family