The TiVo HD digital video recorder allows you to record cable and network programs, even when they are broadcast in high definition. One of the major drawbacks to recording programs in HD is that they take up a large amount of hard drive space. The factory drive in your TiVo HD will only allow you to record 20 hours of high definition content. If you find yourself running out of hard drive space, the solution is to upgrade your TiVo's hard drive with a higher capacity drive.
Instructions
1. Purchase a pre-formatted TiVo replacement drive. The TiVo HD uses a proprietary operating system stored on the factory drive. You have to replace your old drive with one that has the operating system pre-loaded. Refer to the Resources section for links to online retailers selling pre-formatted TiVo drives.
2. Unplug your TiVo from the wall outlet. Disconnect the power cord and cables from the back of the device. Set your TiVo on a table with the rear panel facing you.
3. Use your Torx T10 screwdriver to remove the six screws along the back panel of your TiVo.
4. Slide the top cover of the TiVo toward you. Once the tabs on the top cover come free, lift the cover up and set it aside. Turn the TiVo around so the front panel is facing you.
5. Locate the hard drive in the front-left corner of the TiVo. The drive will be held in place by four screws and there will be a drive cable connected to the back of the drive. There will also be two black tuner cables clipped to the side of the drive, but not actually connected to the drive.
6. Unplug the drive cable from the back of the hard drive. Move the cable out of the way. Unclip the tuner cables from the side of the drive.
7. Use your Torx T10 screwdriver to remove the four screws holding the hard drive in place. The drive is attached to a metal bracket. When you've removed the screws, lift the drive and bracket up and out of the TiVo.
8. Turn the drive over and use your Torx T15 screwdriver to remove the four screws holding the drive to the bracket. Remove the old hard drive from the bracket.
9. Place your new pre-formatted drive in the bracket and replace the four screws. Put the drive and bracket back into your TiVo and replace the four screws. Reconnect the cables to your new drive. Replace the top cover on your TiVo and replace the screws.
10. Reconnect the cables to the back of your TiVo. Plug the unit into a working electrical outlet and wait for it to boot. Once your TiVo has booted, it will recognize your new drive and its increased capacity.
Tags: your TiVo, hard drive, four screws, drive bracket, screwdriver remove, Torx screwdriver, Torx screwdriver remove
Accidents can be caused by your face shield fogging up.
Whether you are riding a dirt bike down a gravel road or driving your snowmobile, it is always frustrating to have the face shield on your helmet get foggy. The fogging is due to a difference in the temperature and humidity between the inside and the outside of the helmet. When you start to sweat or breathe faster inside your full-faced helmet, the shield gathers a moisture mist. Flipping the face shield up periodically to allow air to flow in will fix the problem, but it is not very practical. There are commercial anti-fogging solutions you can apply to your face shield, but inexpensive home remedies will also take care of this annoying problem.
Instructions
Liquid Soap Technique
1. Squirt a small amount of liquid soap onto the interior of your face shield.
2. Rub it all over the face shield with your fingers until the shield is covered. Let it dry for a few minutes, according to the Off-Road website.
3. Buff it with a clean, soft cloth or tissues. It won't fog up for several hours after you use this technique.
Window Cleaner
4. Spray the window cleaner on the interior of the face shield. Make sure it does not contain ammonia, because the fumes will burn your eyes when you wear the helmet.
5. Spread it around with your fingers until it covers the face shield.
6. Wipe it off with a clean, soft cloth.
Tags: face shield, your face, your face shield, clean soft, clean soft cloth
The Zune HD is a portable media player made by Microsoft, available in three models, as of December 2010. It offers touch screen navigation and Wi-Fi synchronization and web browsing. The player also features HD radio and HD video out. The three models are Zune HD 16, 32 and 64.
Size and Weight
These units are 4.02 inches high (102.1 mm), 2.07 inches wide (52.7 mm) and 0.35 inches deep (8.9 mm). They weigh 2.6 ounces (74 grams).
Capacities
The Zune HD 16, 32 and 64 have capacities of 16, 32 and 64 gigabytes respectively. This equates to up to 4,000, 8,000 or 16,000 songs or, for all models, up to 25,000 pictures. In terms of video, the models can store HD video from Zune Marketplace and video optimized for the device. The HD 16 can store up to 5 hours of HD video or 22 hours of optimized video. The HD 32 more than doubles this, with a storage capacity of 10 hours of HD and 48 hours of optimized video. For the HD 64, the figures are 20 hours of HD and 96 hours of optimized video.
Colors
The HD 16 is onyx black. The HD 32 is platinum silver. The HD 64 is black. Buying from Zune Originals gives you access to more color options and customized finishes.
Screen
The screen is a 3.3-inch OLED, or organic light emitting diode, color display with a 16:9 aspect ratio. The resolution is 480 pixels x 272 pixels. It is made from scratch-resistant glass and offers touch input capability. Orientation for music is vertical and for videos, horizontal.
Connectivity
The models are wireless 802.11b/g compatible and wireless sync capable. Available authentication modes are Open, WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy), WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access), and WPA2, the latest version of WPA. Encryption modes available are WEP 64- and 128-bit, TKIP (Temporal Key Integrity Protocol) and AES (Advanced Encryption Standard).
Battery Life
With the wireless turned off, the battery lasts for up to 33 hours of music playback and 8.5 of video play. Charging time is about 3 hours, when you connect the Zune to your PC. If you use the A/C adapter, charging takes about 2 hours.
Other Features
Each model has a connector port and a 3.5mm headphone jack. There is also a built-in FM/HD radio receiver. These devices support three languages: English, French and Spanish.
Included Accessories
Included in the Zune packaging are headphones -- with 3 pairs of foam earpiece covers -- and a syncing cable.
Tags: hours optimized, hours optimized video, optimized video, about hours, from Zune
Building your own wheels gives you complete control over the entire manufacturing process.
Lacing your own spoke wheels is something every aspiring bicycle mechanic should learn. Building your own spoke wheels gives you complete control over the parts of the wheel that are used, such as hub, rim and type of spoke, meaning what you build is purely yours. Lace a set of one-of-a-kind bicycle wheels, and go riding on the product of your own hard work and effort.
Instructions
1. Insert a spoke into every other hole on the right side of the hub from the outside. You should be able to see the butt of the spoke from the outside of the hub flange, and should have an empty hole between each one.
2. Insert the end of one of the attached spokes through a right-side spoke hole on the rim. Attach a spoke nipple to the end of the spoke by twisting it on clockwise. This will hold the spoke in place. Skip three holes on the rim and attach the next spoke to the rim in the same fashion. Continue until each spoke is attached to the rim and there are three empty holes in the rim between each one.
3. Insert a spoke into every other spoke hole in the left side of the hub from the outside. You should be able to see the butt of the spoke from the outside of the flange and should have an empty spoke hole between each one.
4. Insert one of the left side spokes into the spoke hole in the rim next to the right side spoke attached across from it. Use a spoke nipple to secure it in place. Repeat this procedure until each of the left side spokes is attached to the rim next to a right side spoke, and there are two empty holes in the rim between every two spokes.
5. Insert a spoke into each empty spoke hole in the right side of the hub from the inside. You should be able to see the bend of the spoke on the outside of the hub flange. Attach each of these spokes to an empty right-side spoke hole on the rim using a spoke nipple. You shouldn't have any empty holes left in the right hub flange, and should have one empty hole in the rim between every three spokes.
6. Insert a spoke into each empty spoke hole in the left side of the hub from the inside. You should be able to see the bend of the spoke on the outside of the hub flange. Attach each of these spokes to an empty left-side spoke hole on the rim using a spoke nipple. You shouldn't have any empty holes left in the right hub flange or the rim when you are done, and your wheel should be starting to look like a wheel.
7. Choose a spoke and mark it with a permanent marker. Using a spoke wrench, tighten the spoke nipple of this spoke one full turn. Tighten the spoke next to that one the same amount. Continue in this fashion until each of the spokes has been tightened the same amount. Squeeze the spokes to check their tension. If they are still loose, repeat this step again. You may need to do this many times before the spokes begin to tighten significantly.
8. Set the wheel in a truing stand and give it a spin. Watch the rim's placement in regards to the calipers on the truing stand as it spins. If at any point during its spin the rim is closer to one side of the caliper than the other, tighten a spoke from the opposite side hub flange until the rim is centered. As an example, if the rim is closer to the right side of the caliper, tighten a spoke that runs to the left side of the hub to straighten the rim.
9. Spin the wheel again to find the next out-of-true spot. Tighten the necessary spoke to bring the rim in line. Continue this procedure until there is no visible "wobble" in the rim as it spins.
Tags: spoke hole, have empty, left side, right side, spoke nipple, empty holes, from outside
Contact your Honda dealership to replace the keys to your motorcycle.
It's difficult to get where you need to go when you lose your keys. Lost keys are not a major problem in the grand scheme of things, but they are an annoyance that needs to be dealt with quickly, as you cannot drive your motorcycle anywhere without the key. Your local Honda dealership has the necessary equipment to replace your key. Contacting them is the fastest way to go about obtaining a new motorcycle key.
Instructions
1. Call or visit your local Honda dealership. It does not matter if you visit any Honda motorcycle dealership or the dealership where you purchased your bike. Any Honda dealer will do.
2. Provide Honda with your motorcycle's key code. This code is recorded in your original purchase paperwork. If you can't locate this paperwork, call the Honda dealership where your bike was originally purchased and ask them to do a quick search for your key code.
3. Pay for your new motorcycle key once your key has been created for you, a process that generally only takes a few minutes. Request additional copies if you think you will need them.
Tags: Honda dealership, your motorcycle, dealership where, local Honda, local Honda dealership, your bike
Learn properly operate a sidecar before driving on the road.
Although at face value driving a sidecar, or sidecar rig, seems similar to riding a solo motorbike, it requires a different skill set. In fact, due to a sidecar rig's particular handling properties, knowing ride a solo motorbike may put you at more risk on the road, according to Sidecarist. Hence, to avoid putting yourself and others in danger, you must know the correct operating procedure before you venture onto the road.
Instructions
1. Find a large deserted parking lot or other large area away from pedestrians and other road users to first practice riding your sidecar rig. An experienced motorbike sidecar rider should drive you there.
2. Check that you can reach all the controls from a near vertical body position. You will rarely need to position yourself near prone on the bike in the manner of someone riding a solo motorbike.
3. Steer in the direction you want to go. You will probably, subconsciously, have a tendency to countersteer, that is, initially turn the handle bars left to turn right and vica versa. This is how you ride a bicycle. On a sidecar rig you do not need to counter-steer.
4. Turn the handle bars with more force than you would on a solo motorbike. It is much harder to turn a sidecar rig.
5. Slow down considerably before making a right turn, or a turn into the sidecar. This is because centrifugal force will be pushing your sidecar up into the air, and the faster you go, the stronger this force is.
6. Slow down before making a left turn, that is, a turn away from the sidecar. On a left turn centrifugal force is working to push your motorbike's rear wheel into the air. The less speed you use, the less chance there is of this happening, according to Hal Kendall in The Sidecar Operators Manual.
7. Apply both the font and back brake in approximately equal proportion when braking. This is different from a solo motorbike where the back brake is only responsible for about 30 percent of your stopping force, according to the magazine "American Motorcyclist."
Tags: solo motorbike, left turn, away from, back brake, before making, centrifugal force
Colleges in York, Pennsylvania offer several degree options for students.
York County in south-central Pennsylvania bills itself as the "Factory Tour Capital of the World" because of the area's many factories, ranging from the Harley-Davidson Motor Company to Utz Quality Foods. The tours can give college studies a nice break from studying. York city features diverse colleges catering to both academically-focused and career-minded students.
Penn State York
The Pennsylvania State University system has 19 campuses throughout the commonwealth, including a location in York. This commuter campus has over 1,600 students with a range of academic offerings. The eight baccalaureate degree options are in the areas of Communication Arts and Sciences; English; Letters, Arts and Sciences; Business; Human Development and Family Studies; Electro-Mechanical Engineering Technology; Information Sciences and Technology; and Science. Penn State York also offers the first two years of more than 160 baccalaureate majors in the Penn State system, ideal for students looking to eventually transfer.
Penn State York
1031 Edgecomb Avenue
York, PA 17403
(717) 771-4000
yk.psu.edu/default.htm
York College of Pennsylvania
York College of Pennsylvania is a private liberal arts college with 4,600 students. Just because it's a small school doesn't mean that there aren't a variety of academic offerings. The school has 53 majors broken into 10 departments--Behavioral Sciences, Biological Sciences, Business, Education, English and Humanities, History and Political Science, Interdisciplinary Studies, Music and Art and Communications, Nursing and Physical Sciences.
York College of Pennsylvania
441 Country Club Road
York, PA 17403
(717) 846-7788
ycp.edu
YTI Career Institute-York
Going to a four-year college isn't for everyone--and it's sometimes not needed depending on what career you want. That's where the YTI Career Institute comes into play. The York campus offers eight programs that take nine to 21 months to finish. You can earn an Associate in Specialized Business Degree in Computer Systems Specialist, Golf Course Management or Business Administration with an accounting or management focus. An Associate in Specialized Technology is offered in Computer Aided Drafting & Design and in Electronics Engineering Technology. Diplomas are offered in Electrical Technician, Medical Assistant and in Heating, Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Technology.
YTI Career Institute-York
1405 Williams Road
York, PA 17402
(717) 757-1100
yti.edu/campuses/york.asp?S=
Tags: Penn State, College Pennsylvania, Penn State York, State York, York College
Rust is a term given to the process of oxidation. It is a natural reaction that occurs between iron and oxygen in the presence of water or humidity. Unfortunately, given enough time, most any metal surface will rust unless it has been treated with a galvanizing process or the right type of paint. Once it has set in, you must remove the oxidation and coat the surface with the proper sealant to prevent a return of the problem. Epoxy is a good choice to seal out rust when combined with a spray rust sealer, however, you must work meticulously to remove all of the rust before you apply any type of coating. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Scrape the rust loose from the surface using a wire brush.
2. Sand away any remaining small particles of rust using 80-grit sandpaper.
3. Protect any areas you don't want coated with epoxy by covering them with painter's tape.
4. Apply a coat of spray rust sealer to the area you want to protect. Allow the sealer to dry for four full hours.
5. Pour the epoxy resin into the 2-gallon painter's pot. Stir in the catalyst using a wooden stir stick.
6. Apply the epoxy to the surface using a 2- to 4-inch latex paintbrush. Allow the epoxy to dry and cure for three full hours.
Tags: full hours, given process, given process oxidation, process oxidation, rust sealer
Control of the front wheel is essential to safe bicycling
If bicycle handlebars move suddenly, a rider can lose control and fall. There are several ways to prevent this through the use of shims or adhesives. Knurling, or making ridges in the metal for a firmer grip, is not recommended because it can produce defects that may cause the handlebar to crack. The handlebar and stem should be measured carefully before assembling the parts. Each method of securing the handlebar involves more complicated dis-assembly, if subsequent maintenance is necessary. Please be aware that this pertains to aluminum and steel handlebars and stems. Carbon fiber handlebars must be installed per the manufacturer's specifications.
Instructions
1. Loosen the handlebar binder bolt on a conventional stem, and slide the handlebar out to one side. Inspect it for any black streaks that indicate powdered aluminum from the friction of the parts. Clean both the stem and handlebar with alcohol.
2. Measure the handlebar and stem with a pair of vernier calipers. The internal diameter of the stem opening should be equal to or just slightly greater than the handlebar. In some cases, like old French handlebars, the gap will be large and the stem simply won't bind on the handlebar. With properly fitting handlebars and stems, it is sometimes necessary to spread the stem slightly with a screwdriver as the bar is inserted.
3. Cut a shim from a soda can with the metal shears. Cut it slightly narrower than the stem so the edges don't slice your hands. Curl the shim up and slide it between the handlebar and stem. Be careful as the edges are extremely sharp. Tighten the binder bolt and test the handlebar for tightness by putting your full weight on the drops.
4. Apply a thread locking compound between the handlebar and stem. Dis-assemble the parts and apply a thin film of thread locker to the handlebar. Slide it back into the stem and tighten the binder bolt. Allow the thread locker to cure for 24 hours before testing the assembly for tightness. Be aware that dis-assembling these parts will require heat and considerable force.
5. Apply high-strength epoxy -- if all else fails -- and re-assemble the parts. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 to 48 hours. Once it cures, dis-assembling the parts will be almost impossible, so be certain the bar is in the correct position.
Tags: handlebar stem, binder bolt, aware that, between handlebar, between handlebar stem
When it comes to choosing a Harley-Davidson, the hardest decision is deciding which one to buy.
All Harley-Davidson motorcycles are equipped with Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPFI) and belt drives. With over 30 Harley models as of late 2010, the similarities end there.
Sportster (XL)
The Sportster is the smallest of the entire Harley-Davidson lineup. Specifically created for the urban scene, the Sportster has three tank sizes: 2.1, 3.3 and a 4.5 gallons.
Dyna (D) and Softail (ST)
Dyna and Softail models feature air-cooled, twin-cam 96/96B engines. These are larger motorcycles with loads of street cred. Fuel capacity for both ranges between 4.7 and 5 gallons. Owners can expect fuel economy for both bikes to range between 35 mpg (city) to 54 mpg (highway). In stock form, the bikes are ideal for short trips or cruising down the boulevard.
V-TWIN Racing Street Custom (VRSC)
The V-Rod is based on Harley-Davidson's production drag-racing motorcycle, the VRXSE V-Rod Destroyer. All V-Rod models are equipped with liquid-cooled, revolution, 60-degree V-twin engines. Fuel capacity is 5 gallons. Expect to get between 34 mpg (city) to 42 mpg (highway). These bikes are intended solely for boulevard cruising.
Touring Model (HT or LT) and Trikes
Harley-Davidson's Touring and Trike models are designed specifically for long-distance traveling in comfort. All Touring models and Trikes sport new Twin Pack 103TM V-Twin Engines. Fuel capacity for this model is 6 gallons. Fuel economy ranges between 35 mpg (city) to 54 mpg (highway).
Tags: between city, between city highway, city highway, Fuel capacity, Dyna Softail, equipped with, ranges between
The ATI Radeon 5770 is a video card for gamers. Follow the steps to install the hardware and drivers for optimum results.
Instructions
1. Make sure the computer is off and unplugged. Remove the computer's side cover and then unscrew and take out the PCI cover plate directly across from the PCI Express slot and also the one below it. The card takes up two slots.
2. Carefully unpack the video card from its box and static bag. Be sure to not touch any contacts.
3. Line up the card with the PCI Express slot and press the card down in the slot. Make sure it is well seated and that the retainer clip (if your board has one) clicks into place. Screw the card down to the case.
4. Hook up the six-pin power connector to the card. Either use your power supply's six-pin connector if it has one or use the Molex to six-pin adapter that came with the card. Make sure the power plug clicks into place.
5. Turn the computer on and make sure the fan is turning and the computer starts up correctly. Then put the side cover back on. After Windows boots, the display may look funny until the appropriate video drivers are installed. To install the latest drivers, download the latest drivers from the ATI website instead of using the supplied CD from the video card box (sometimes those drivers are outdated).
6. Go to the ATI website (ati.com) and fill out the information on the top right of the screen under the "Download Drivers" section. Click "View Results." Then download the Catalyst Suite on the next page. Save the installation file to your hard drive and then open it when it has finished downloading.
7. If the User Account Control appears, click "Yes."
8. On the next window, check the components you want to install. Make sure the checkbox next to "ATI Catalyst Driver" is checked. Then click "Next."
9. Click "Install." On the next screen, select your language and click "Next."
10. Click "Install" and then choose "Express" on the next screen and click "Next." After reading the conditions of usage, click "Accept" on the next window. The drivers will subsequently install.
11. Restart your computer.
Tags: Make sure, video card, card down, Click Install, click Next
The Harley-Davidson Deuce is part of Harley-Davidson's Softail line of motorcycles. The Deuce's main difference from other Softail cruisers is a larger frame. It's main competitors are the Honda Shadow, the Kawasaki Vulcan, the Yamaha Dragstar, and the Victory Vegas. The Softail Deuce remained largely unchanged until its discontinuation in 2007.
Dimensions and Exterior
The Harley-Davidson Deuce is 95.4 inches in length, 4.8 inches in ground clearance, and 66.6 inches in wheelbase. It has a wet and dry weight of 682 and 663 pounds respectively, and a fuel capacity of 4.9 gallons. The exterior is equipped with a belt guard, exterior covers and guards, fork guards, front and rear steel fenders, rubber hand grips, a rear fender rail, rear-view folding mirrors, a kick stand, and a master cylinder cover.
Engine and Transmission
The Harley-Davidson Deuce has an air-cooled, four-stroke, two-cylinder V Twin engine with two valves per cylinder in OHV Pushrod configuration. Coupled with a compression ratio of 9.2:1 and a bore and stroke of 3.75 and 4.38 inches respectively, this produces an engine displacement of 1573.2 cc, a maximum torque of 89.8 ft-lbs, and an engine displacement to weight ratio of 2.39 cc. The engine is controlled by a six-speed manual transmission with a belt primary drive and electric starter.
Chassis
The steel chassis has a 32 degree rake. The front is fitted with a telescopic fork suspension, 11.5-inch disc brakes, and a Dunlop MH90-21 54H tire. The rear is fitted with twin-sided steel swing-arm suspension, two shock absorbers, four caliper pistons, 11.5 inch disc brakes, and a Dunlop 160/70 R17 73V tire. Both tires produce a trail of 5 inches.
The transmission fluid in the Harley Sportster keeps the inside of the transmission lubricated. To maintain a properly working transmission, you need to change the transmission fluid every 5,000 miles. the transmission is located behind the engine in front of the rear tire. You will have to remove a metal plug on the bottom of the transmission to drain the transmission fluid. The transmission pour valve is located on the side of the engine.
Instructions
1. Run the engine to warm up the transmission. Look under the frame and locate the transmission plug. Once the engine and transmission are warm, turn off the Sportster.
2. Place the drain pan under the transmission. Use the ratchet set to remove the metal plug on the transmission and let the transmission fluid drain out of the transmission.
3. Replace the transmission plug. Tighten the plug using the ratchet set.
4. Twist off the transmission cap on the side of the transmission. Insert the funnel into the pour hole. Pour the recommended type and amount of transmission fluid found in the owners manual into the transmission and replace the cap.
Tags: transmission fluid, drain transmission, metal plug, remove metal, remove metal plug, transmission plug
Harley's long evolution has seen numerous safety improvements, not least the hand-operated clutch.
Properly called a hand-shifter, the terms "tank shift," "suicide shifter," "slap-shifter" and "jockey shift" all refer to a drivetrain that requires the rider to remove one hand from a motorcycle's handlebars to select and change gear. Harley-Davidson's Panhead, introduced for the 1949 model year and replacing the Knucklehead, featured a tank shift through its entire production run.
Hand-Shifter History
The hand-shifter was common on most motorcycles manufactured from the machine's invention until the 1950s. In most applications, a foot-operated clutch was depressed while the gears were selected with the hand-shifter. The design has seen a resurgence in the custom motorcycle industry, where it speaks to an earlier era and evokes a retro feel.
Typical Arrangement
The gearshift handle was mounted to the left side of the engine, connected at the bottom by a system of levers to the shift selector of the drivetrain. The top of the shifter most commonly projected upward through, and moved within, a notched gate similar to modern car shifters where a tiptronic-style stick is used.
Harley-Davidson's Panhead
Panheads were introduced in 1949, and were thus christened by the public because the valve covers at the top of each cylinder resembled cake pans. Within a short time Panheads became popular bases for personalization and customization. With the return of airmen from World War II and the subsequent birth of the club and chopper culture, the complex linkage of the tank shift assembly became undesirable to some. Riders who wished to reduce the weight -- and, some would say, cluttered appearance of the dresser -- shortened the side-of-the-tank actuating lever so that the gear selection was made right at the gearbox itself.
The change from Knucklehead to Panhead featured a second profound change: iron cylinders were replaced by aluminum alloy. Previously, wartime demands had restricted the availability of aluminum, but with the end of the conflict, surplus planes were melted down and the raw material became widely available for reuse.
Hand-Shifters on the Panhead
The hand shifter-foot clutch combination was first used by Harley-Davidson in 1915, and the hand-operated clutch first appeared with the 1952 Panhead. Before the 1952 model year, Harley-Davidson used only a left-foot clutch to disengage the drivetrain, and a left-hand tank shifter to select gears. The reversed arrangement was introduced as an option, and both versions were available on the Panhead until production discontinued in 1965. Within two years of introduction, the hand-clutch, foot-shifter architecture was outselling the older style around 2-to-1.
Suicide Clutches
It should be noted that a suicide shifter and a suicide clutch are different; the latter describes a foot-operated clutch pedal that gave the rider a choice between putting both feet on the ground or holding in the left-foot-operated clutch. This effectively required the rider to prioritize either balance or disengaging the gears, a particularly onerous choice at T junctions.
Tags: tank shift, foot-operated clutch, hand-operated clutch, Harley-Davidson Panhead, introduced 1949, model year, suicide shifter
Nothing runs quite like a Harley Sportster. Small, quick and powerful, the Sportster is the little Harley that could. To keep that Sportster engine running smoothly requires regularly replacing the spark plugs. When properly gapped and installed, new spark plugs can smooth out a rough running engine and improved power and efficiency. The service manual suggests replacement every 10,000 miles, but according to Benny Miller, certified Harley mechanic for Renegade Cycle in Mesquite, Texas, spark plugs should be replaced every 3,000 miles, or every oil change, to insure peak performance. It takes only a few steps to replace the plugs.
Instructions
1. Turn both ignition and kill switches to the "off" position. If the Sportster has been running, allow the motorcycle to cool before proceeding to avoid burns.
2. Locate the spark plug cables on the left side of the Sportster, just below the gas tank protruding from the cylinder head. Using needle nose pliers, grasp a spark plug cable at the thickened base near the cylinder. Avoid pulling on the cable above this protected base as it can damage the internal structure of the cable. Pry upward, removing the spark plug cable from the spark plug and the cylinder. Note which cable goes to each cylinder to avoid crossed wires.
3. Place a 5/8-inch spark plug socket over spark plug. Attach a 3-inch ratchet extension and ratchet handle. Turn the ratchet in counter-clockwise direction. Continue turning until the spark plug comes loose from the cylinder head. Examine the old plug for signs of oil deposits or engine wear. Check the threads inside the cylinder for deposits or corrosion. Use penetrating oil to soften any deposits and a thread chaser to clean the threads.
4. Gap the replacement plug by placing the electrode opening of the plug over the narrowest part of the gapping gauge. Slide the plug opening until it is even with the correct gap size. A 2000 Sportster should be gapped between 0.038 to 0.043 inches (0.96 to 1.09mm).
5. Apply a light coat of antiseize lubricant to the threads of the replacement spark plug. By hand, place the spark plug into the cylinder head opening and turn clockwise, hand tightening it until it resists. Avoid cross threading the plug. Place a5/8-inch socket over the end of spark plug. Using the socket wrench, turn it clockwise until the spark plug becomes snug, usually another quarter turn. Do not over tighten.
6. By hand, place a spark plug cable over the appropriate spark plug. Push downward on the cable until it will no longer depress.
7. Turn the ignition switch on. Make certain the motorcycle is in neutral gear. Turn the kill switch to the "on" position. Depress the starter switch until the engine starts. Listen for any abnormalities in the rhythm and idle speed. Adjust the idle as necessary.
Tags: spark plug, cylinder head, plug cable, spark plug cable, 2000 Sportster, every miles
Golf carts are just one type of vehicle Yamaha manufactures.
A Yamaha golf cart is a two-person vehicle designed for quick travel across the green plains of a golf course. These particular golf carts are made by the Japanese multinational corporation Yamaha, which specializes in automobiles and electronics.
Engine
A Yamaha golf cart engine is typically a four-stroke gasoline engine with a single cylinder. This is deemed to be suitable when comparing the power and performance of the engine to the golf cart's weight (the official weight of the cart is 255 kg or 562 lbs.). From this calculation, the golf cart can reach a maximum speed of 15 miles per hour.
Cooling System
All vehicle engines need a cooling system in order to prevent overheating and maintain performance. The Yamaha golf cart uses a forced air-cooling system (as opposed to a water-cooling system).
Engine Oil Type
The oil type that needs to be used on the Yamaha golf cart is a Yamalube 10W40 4-cycle oil. The other relevant specifications concerning the engine oil (the capacity of the engine and the oil change quantity) are both the same is at 1.0 litres at 1000 cubic centimeters.
Driving on dusty roads makes the filter dirty much more quickly.
Some models of the Ford F-150 are equipped with a cabin air filter that prevents dust and pollen from entering the cab of the truck. Ford recommends replacing the filter at least once per year or after every 10,000 miles. If the F-150 is often driven in dusty conditions, the filter should be inspected and replaced more frequently. A clean cabin air filter improves air flow in the air conditioning system.
Instructions
1. Open the glove compartment and remove its contents.
2. Remove the two screws on the inside top of the glove compartment to unhook it from the dash.
3. Pivot the glove box down toward the floor of the F-150 to expose the cabin filter housing.
4. Press in on the clips on both sides of the cabin filter housing to unhook it. Pull the filter housing cover off.
5. Pull the old filter straight out of the filter compartment to remove it.
6. Slide the new filter into the filter compartment. Make sure the arrow printed on the filter is pointing toward the roof of the F-150.
7. Replace the filter housing cover. Press on the sides of the cover until it snaps into place.
8. Lift the glove compartment up and reposition it to the original position. Replace the two screws that secure the glove compartment to the dash.
While the heyday of motorcycles with sidecars is long over, there's still a truly iconic experience to seeing a sidecar on a Harley Davidson. Besides looks, a sidecar also offers additional stability to your Harley, and gives you the ability to carry additional loads or even another passenger. While attaching a sidecar may seem an overly-complex process, with a universal mounting kit it's actually quite manageable.
Instructions
1. Attach the U-clap to the front of the frame, put in the spacer block, then inset the two bolts.
2. Insert the eyebolt through the spacer block and tighten it. If it's still too loose after you tighten it all the way, put the large shim from your kit in front of the eyebolt, then retighten the bolt.
3. Attach the three remaining u-clamps to your Harley in the manner laid out in Steps 1 and 2. Depending on the style of your bike, the u-clamps will attach at different points. See the chart in the Resource section for details on where the clamps attach on specific frame types.
4. Loosen the two holding bolds on the front of the sidecar frame.
5. Place the curved bar into the frame of the sidecar, then tighten the bolts.
6. Put the sliding clamp on the back of the sidecar frame and attach it with its two bolts.
7. Put in the eyebolt with the spacer sleeve into the sliding clamp you placed in the last step, then attach it with its nut.
8. Remove the eyebolts on the two long struts, then insert them into the front and rear holes on the sidecar frame.
9. Set your Harley and its sidecar side by side, standing straight up. Make sure the wheel of the side car is eight to ten inches in front of the back wheel of the motorcycle.
10. Move the Clevis Adjusting Bolts of the struts and on the curved bar to the eyebolt on each of the u-clamps. Insert the botls into each of them and tighten them down.
Performing regular maintenance on your Electra Glide can add years of life to your ride.
Performing scheduled maintenance is an important part of owning a Harley-Davidson Electra Glide motorcycle. Regular maintenance will help the motorcycle perform at peak capacity and add years to the service life of the bike. Most tasks can be performed in a home garage setting. Ensure that you have the proper tools necessary before beginning. The length of time required to perform these tasks will vary depending on your skill level, but they will typically take two to three hours to complete.
Instructions
Change the Motor Oil and Filter
1. Run the motorcycle so that it heats up to normal operating temperature. Turn the bike off.
2. Remove the motor oil dipstick located on the right side of the bike. Place an oil drain pan underneath the motorcycle.
3. Remove the oil drain plug on the front of the oil pan, underneath the Harley. Allow all of the oil to drain.
4. Reinstall the oil drain plug.
5. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench. Clean the oil filter mounting boss with a shop rag.
6. Lubricate the rubber gasket on a new oil filter with clean motor oil. Install the oil filter by hand onto the mounting boss. Hand-tighten it ½-turn after the filter gasket comes into contact with the mounting boss surface.
7. Add 3.5 quarts of 20w50 motorcycle oil into the oil filler plug/dipstick hole.
8. Wipe off the oil dipstick with a shop rag and insert it into the filler hole until it fully seats. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level on it. Add oil as necessary to bring the reading up to the FULL mark. Reinsert the dipstick.
Change the Primary Chain Lubricant
9. Place a drain pan under the motorcycle. Remove the primary chain lubricant chain plug with a T40 TORX drive head. Allow all of the lubricant to drain.
10. Reinstall the drain plug.
11. Remove the five fasteners from the clutch inspection cover (Derby cover) with a hex wrench. Remove the clutch cover and gasket.
12. Add 32 ounces of primary chain case lubricant. The fluid level should reach the bottom edge of the clutch diaphragm spring with the motorcycle standing upright.
13. Place a new clutch cover gasket into position. Reinstall the clutch cover with five fasteners.
Change the Transmission Lubricant
14. Place a drain pan underneath the motorcycle. Use a hex wrench to remove the transmission filler plug from the transmission.
15. Remove the transmission drain plug with a T40 TORX drive head. Allow all of the fluid to drain. Reinstall the drain plug.
16. Add 20 to 24 ounces of Harley transmission lubricant through the filler plug opening to the transmission. Insert the filler plug back into the filler hole.
The motherboard is the backbone of your computer as it is the piece that all of the other components are connected to. If your computer will not boot up properly or power on at all the problem may potentially lie with the motherboard. Because so many other components are connected to the motherboard you will need to troubleshoot each other part first.
Instructions
1. Turn the computer off and then remove the power cable from the electrical wall outlet. Plug a power cable from a different electrical device into the outlet and power it on so that you can rule out the outlet as your problem. Connect the computer's power cable back into the outlet.
2. Power the computer back on and place your hand behind the case near the power supply. Wait a few moments to see if any air is pushed out of the power supply by the cooling fan. Replace the power supply instead of the motherboard if the fan is not working.
3. Shut down the computer again and pull out all of the cables from the back side of the case. Remove any other devices you have connected to the front ports on the computer such as a USB printer or jump drive.
4. Set down the computer so that the left side panel is facing towards you. Unlock the side panel from the computer case by removing the case screws if there are any. Twist of the thumbscrew or pull up on the metal holding latch if the computer does not use case screws.
5. Remove the screws holding any expansion cards to the case and then pull them off the motherboard. Pull out all of the cables running from the motherboard to the power supply and drive bays. Pull out the screws holding the motherboard to the case. Pull the motherboard straight up out of the case and set it down carefully on a flat non-metal surface.
6. Check to make sure that there is no physical damage to the motherboard such as bent pins or burnt transistors. Purchase a new motherboard and place it back in the case if there is any visible damage.
7. Remove the screws holding the power supply to the case and slide it out of the drive bay. Set it down near the motherboard and connect the SATA cable from the motherboard to the power supply. Connect the power cable from the power supply to a wall outlet. Plug cable from the computer's monitor into the corresponding port on the motherboard.
8. Remove the RAM modules and replace them with another set. Press down the power button on the motherboard with a screwdriver or another flat object. Wait to see if the computer loads up without error, which will indicate that the problem is with the RAM modules instead of with the motherboard.
9. Power the motherboard back off and replace the processor with a different one. Turn the motherboard back on and see if the system boots up normally, which will indicate a defective processor.
10. Turn the motherboard off and replace the video card with a different one. Power the motherboard on and see if the system boots up, which will indicate a defective video card.
11. Replace the motherboard if the system still will not boot up after all of the other components have been checked.
Tags: power supply, cable from, power cable, other components, power cable from
So you've got a shiny new HD TV, with one small problem: your large VHS collection. Sure, those old tapes aren't exactly high-resolution, but why buy new copies of movies you already own? The problem is you're not sure if you can plug a VCR into your new television. Good news: you probably can, though it's probably not going to look much better than your old television when you do.
Inputs
The first thing you're going to need to find out is what kind of cable your VCR uses to connect to televisions. Most VCRs use the standard cable connection to accomplish this; some newer ones will use RCA cables, the yellow, white and read cords that plug into the corresponding plugs. Either way, you should be able to plug in your VCR to your HD TV just fine.
VHS: Not HD
Turn on your VCR and play a tape to find out if your VCR works with your television. If it does, you'll notice the image quality is decidedly not high definition. This makes sense, as the VHS tapes are not high definition and your VCR is incapable of producing an HD picture. Your HD television takes the signal from your VCR and displays it full screen, but not in HD, instead changing its picture to the resolution your VCR outputs.
Possible issue
If your VCR is the kind that uses the cable connection to plug in, and you want to use that connection for something besides watching VHS tapes, you have a problem. For example, if you wanted to use your cable port to watch digital broadcast television or digital cable, you've used up the only plug you can use to do so.
You can work around this a couple ways. If you don't plan on using the VCR very often you can switch the cables when you want to watch a VHS; not terribly convenient, but it works. Alternatively, you could buy a new VCR that uses RCA cords instead of the cable.
Note that, if you have cable at home and your service is neither digital or HD, you can plug your cable into your VCR and use the VCR to browse television just like you did with your old TV.
Recording
Related to the above issue, you cannot use the VCR for recording HD or digital television without the use of a converter box for the VCR. Your old VCR cannot handle digital content as an input or an output, so conversion is not possible.
Tags: cable connection, high definition, into your, plug into, plug your, that uses
In the last few years Harley riders, especially riders of Dyna Wide Glides, have reported improperly installed and defective rubber front motor mounts. The part has never been recalled and Harley-Davidson has never admitted the parts might be defective or improperly installed. Besides inspection of the mounts, and replacement if necessary, Harley also recommends aligning the motorcycle by loosening, but not removing, all motor mount bolts and running the engine for five seconds, during which time the mounts align themselves to the frame. The bolts are then re-tightened to manufacturer specifications. While Harley recommends the realignment, the procedure is rarely done because the mounts usually need to be replaced anyway.
Instructions
1. Make the motorcycle upright and level by slightly elevating the Wide Glide on a motorcycle jack. Do not elevate the bike. The front tire should remain within an inch of the ground.
2. Unfasten the two bolts that secure the voltage regulator to the frame near the bottom of the down tubes with a socket wrench. Do not disconnect the voltage regulator from the wiring harness.
3. Remove four of the six front engine mount bolts. Remove the stabilizer link bolt and three bottom lower plate bolts. Use the Service Manual for your motorcycle to identify these bolts if you are unsure.
4. Position a wood block on top of a scissors jack. Slide the jack and block of wood under your engine. Raise the jack approximately a half-inch.
5. Break loose the two upper plate bolts with a 9/16-inch deep well socket and a breaker bar. Remove the bolts with the same socket and a ratchet.
6. Remove the motor mount plate. Remove the motor mount. Wipe all exposed surfaces around the mount clean with rags and solvent.
7. Replace the motor mount plate and position the new motor mount. Replace and finger tighten all six mounting bolts.
8. Lower the scissors jack. Remove the scissors jack and wood block.
9. Tighten the two upper plate bolts to 33 to 38 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the stabilizer link bolt to 33 to 38 foot-pounds. Tighten the lower plate bolts last, to 33 to 38 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.
10. Re-bolt the voltage regulator to the frame with a socket wrench.
11. Support the motorcycle while you lower the motorcycle jack. Allow the bike to rest on the jiffy stand.
Tags: motor mount, plate bolts, scissors jack, voltage regulator, bolts with, Dyna Wide, improperly installed
Computer hard drives are relatively reliable these days, but they still can crash. While we all know we should be backing everything up all the time, not all of us do. So, there may be times when you need to recover data from a failed hard drive and not know where to start. Here are some tips.
Basics
The first thing to do is to make certain you absolutely can't retrieve anything from the failed drive by normal means. Unplug the hard drive, turn it off and give it a rest for an hour. Sometimes hard drives teetering on the edge of being viable get overheated and simply won't function while they are that hot. When the drive has sufficiently cooled, plug it back in and turn it on. If it mounts to the computer, copy off all your data as quickly as possible to another hard drive. Don't try to copy data to a CD or DVD because it will take too long and potentially heat up the bad drive too much. If you have a lot of data on the drive, it may take several sessions in which you copy as much as you can off it, then give it a cooling period, then try again.
Recovery Software
The next step, if normal methods fail, is to use data recovery software. Two of the leading software packages to do this are Symantec Backup Exec System Recovery for the Windows-based computer and Tech Tool Pro for the Apple Macintosh. Both software packages have an array of tools to dig into the failed hard drive and "data mine" it. With Tech Tool Pro, for example, the best time to start is before the crash. It allows you to use a data recovery tool that essentially puts tags in all your data files to make it easier to recover that data in the event of a crash. If you didn't do that, however, the program still can sift through the hard drive and recover files to another drive, although the recovery rate may not be as good.
Recovery Services
When all else fails, contact a data recovery service. If you have a lot of vital data on a hard drive and standard recovery software won't work, there are companies that specialize in data recovery for you. You take the hard drive and mail it to the company. Since professional data recovery teams have more sophisticated tools than you can reasonably have at home, this solution, while more expensive than buying software, may save you from severe data loss.
Tags: hard drive, data recovery, failed hard drive, hard drives, recovery software, software packages, Tech Tool
Employment opportunities for Harley Davidson mechanics are expected to rise.
As of January 2010, the average U.S. salary for a Harley Davidson mechanic was $37,833, according to Indeed.com. Harley Davidson mechanics possess specialized skills in the mechanical repair of Harley Davidson motorcycles.
Salaries in Large Cities
According to Indeed.com, Harley Davidson mechanics in New York City earn $50,000 annually, while those in Chicago and Los Angeles earn $40,000.
Salaries in Small Cities
According to Indeed.com, Harley Davidson mechanics in Dayton, Ohio, earn $35,000, those in Little Rock, Arkansas, earn $32,000 and those in Independence, Kansas, earn $30,000.
Basic Qualifications
Harley Davidson mechanics must obtain an education in basic motorcycle mechanics. Typically, entry into the educational programs require a high school diploma or G.E.D.
Specialized Education
According to Harley-Davidson.com, the Motorcycle Mechanics Institute provides the necessary education, and Harley-Davidson maintains partnerships with the following four colleges to provide degree programs specializing in Harley-Davidson mechanics: Lake Washington Technical College, Central Carolina Community College, Fort Scott Community College and Pittsburg State University.
Job Outlook
The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics states employment opportunities for small engine mechanics overall are expected to increase by seven percent between 2008 and 2018.
Sporting a 500cc single-cylinder motor, the Buell Blast has provided an unintimidating, solid base for new motorcyclists to learn the sport. Based on a simple platform, the Blast is as easy to maintain as it is to ride, allowing the new rider to also practice basic maintenance skills. Replacing the brake pads on the Blast is one of the most common procedures that can be done in a home garage, often taking less than 30 minutes to complete with basic hand tools.
Instructions
Front Brake Pad Replacement
1. Park the motorcycle on a smooth, level surface and turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position.
2. Locate the mounting bolts that secure the brake caliper to the right lower fork leg. Select the appropriately-sized hex head socket and break the torque on the caliper mounting bolts using a breaker bar. Remove the bolts and slide the brake caliper away from the rotor.
3. Remove the hex head bolt from the backside of the brake caliper and pull the brake pads and mounting clip out of the caliper.
4. Clean the caliper by spraying it with brake cleaner to remove road grime. Wipe the cleaner away immediately with a clean rag or cloth. Inspect the caliper for signs of damage, such as brake fluid leaks from the brake line and the inner brake pistons. Also inspect these pistons for corrosion.
5. Insert the new brake pads and mounting clip into the brake caliper. Apply a drop of medium strength thread-locking adhesive onto the threads of the retaining bolt and screw the retaining bolt into the backside of the caliper. The bolt should slide easily between the brake pads and the mounting clip.
6. Slide the brake caliper over the brake rotor and align the caliper's mounting holes with the bracket on the right lower fork leg. Apply a drop of medium strength thread-locking adhesive onto the threads of the caliper mounting bolts and insert the bolts into the bracket. Tighten the bolts to secure the caliper to the lower fork leg.
7. Rebuild pressure in the brake line and caliper by pumping the front brake lever until the lever requires a firm pull to engage the brake.
Rear Brake Pad Replacement
8. Locate the mounting bolts that secure the rear brake caliper to the left side of the swing arm. Select the appropriately-sized hex head socket and break the torque on the caliper mounting bolts using a breaker bar and remove the bolts. Slide the brake caliper upwards and away from the rotor.
9. Remove the slotted retaining bolt from the front of the brake caliper with a flat head screwdriver and pull the brake pads and mounting clip out of the caliper.
10. Clean the caliper by spraying it with brake cleaner to remove road grime then wipe the cleaner away immediately with a clean rag or cloth. Inspect the caliper for signs of damage, such as brake fluid leaks from the brake line and the inner brake pistons. Also inspect these pistons for corrosion.
11. Insert the new brake pads and mounting clip into the rear brake caliper. Apply a drop of medium strength thread-locking adhesive onto the threads of the retaining bolt and screw the retaining bolt into the backside of the caliper. The bolt should slide easily between the brake pads and the mounting clip.
12. Slide the brake caliper over the brake rotor and align the caliper's mounting holes with the support bracket on the swing arm. Apply a drop of medium strength thread-locking adhesive onto the threads of the caliper mounting bolts and insert the bolts into the bracket.
13. Rebuild pressure in the brake line and caliper by pumping the rear brake pedal until the pedal has a small amount of resistance when depressed.
Removing the main circuit breaker may be necessary for maintenance and restoration work.
The circuit breaker of a Harley-Davidson motorcycle may need to be repaired or replaced after extended heavy use. Restoration projects and general maintenance may also require the circuit breaker to be removed from within the engine compartment. Thankfully, it is an easy process that requires few tools and can be completed at home. However, always be sure when removing the battery to remove the negative cable first to prevent a hazardous situation.
Instructions
Instructions
1. Remove the seat of your Harley-Davidson. Procedure will vary by model.
2. Unthread the bolts of the battery cables. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive cable in that order to prevent battery explosion or other hazards.
3. Loosen the battery bolt to slide the clamp off the battery's edge. Then remove the battery entirely from the battery box within the motorcycle housing.
4. Locate the main circuit breaker, which is on the left side of the upper frame crossmember. The EFI power wire on 2001 models will be attached to the main circuit break, as will the voltage regulator output wire and the main power wire, which is the thickest wire in this assembly.
5. Remove the Keps nuts from the copper post, then remove the thick main power wire in its convoluted tubing from the circuit breaker.
6. Remove the Keps nuts from the silver post next, which will allow the removal of the EFI power wire, main harness power wire and voltage regulator output from their ring terminals.
7. Bend the mounting clip tab outward, then remove the main circuit breaker.
Tags: circuit breaker, power wire, main circuit, main circuit breaker, breaker Remove, circuit breaker Remove
Harley-Davidson has been making motorcycles since 1903. There have been many major redesigns of everything from engines, suspension, frames and bearing designs. It's very difficult to break that into common torque values. Besides, you don't want to estimate the torque value on a critical fastener such as a head-bolt or axle. However, there are engineering guidelines that correspond to specific fasteners. General torque engineering specs can be referenced for any Harley-Davidson fastener, for the first models in 1903 to the latest V-Rod.
When in Doubt, Don't Over Tighten!
A word of caution: it may seem like a good idea to err on the side of over-tightening an important fastener if you're not sure of the torque value. It is not. Over-tightening can create the same likelihood of failure as under-tightening. Only with under-tightening you may have some warning in the form of vibration or noise; with over-tightening, if the bolt fails, it will just snap.
Baseline Torque Specs: Sizes and Threads
You don't need factory torque specifications to work on a motorcycle. You need to know the diameter of the bolt and how many threads per inch it has. Then, you need a specifications matrix for that bolt.
Plated Bolts
Baseline torque specifications are for non-lubricated bolts with no plating. If you are using chrome-plated bolts, the torque value is the same for a non-lubricated, non-plated bolt. For a zinc-plated bolt, the torque value is 15 percent less than the baseline value. For a cadmium-plated bolt, the torque value is 25 percent less than the baseline value.
Lubricated Bolts
As with some plated bolts, lubricated bolts require less torque. Both lubrication and plating can make the binding surfaces smoother, so less torque is used to overcome friction and to seat the bolt to a given amount of pressure. If a bolt is lubricated with oil or assembly lubrication, the torque should be reduced by 15 to 25 percent. Teflon or Molybdenum dry film requires 50 percent less torque, as does Cetyl Alcohol.
Tags: torque value, less torque, percent less, baseline value, bolt torque, bolt torque value
DirecTV can provide quality programming and a large selection of channels. A majority of DirecTV viewers are still in awe as they provide crystal clear quality to your television set. To ensure the best amount of quality, installation of the system needs to be done accurately. Possessing proper tools and a good view of the southern sky, your DirecTV system will operate smoothly for years to come. The DirecTV system will even update itself with new software, keeping your system up to date.
Instructions
Installing the DirecTV Slimline Dish
1. Assemble the dish reflector to the back assembly. There are four screws that will hold these pieces together.
2. Locate a place to mount the satellite antenna. Make sure the chosen location has a clear view of your southern sky. Some channels won't come in if there is foliage blocking the view.
3. Mount the dish in an upright and straight manner. Using a level, check that the dish is not tilted. The dish must be level and plumb for signal clarity.
4. Using a signal meter, you will need to adjust the dish for maximum signal. Turn the dish until your meter gives you full signal on each channel. Once you have maintained max signal, tighten the dish to the mounting pole.
5. Run four cable coaxial cords through the arm of the dish and screw into the slots of the low noise blocker (LNB). The LNB can be installed on the antenna arm and requires two screws to secure it.
6. Drape the coaxial cables from the dish to the ground block assembly located at the cable feed on the side of the structure you are wiring. Be sure to loop the cable coming out of the antenna to ensure that you have room for coaxial maintenance later on.
Fasten the coaxial cable to one side of the grounding block. Using a 7/16-inch wrench, make sure the fittings are snug on the block.
7. To protect your antenna from lightning and thunderstorms, run a grounding cable from the block to the house ground. Purchase a copper grounding nut to fasten cable to grounding rod.
Attach cables running inside the home to the opposite end of the ground block. Be sure to tighten snug to increase signal clarity.
Installing DirecTV Satellite reciever.
8. Connect the cable to the television set. Run the power chord from the receiver to the wall outlet.
Place the batteries in the back of the remote and make sure your television is on the proper input channel to receive the satellite signal.
9. Follow the prompts through the menu set-up for the installation. The menu will ask for a ZIP code. Input your ZIP code and wait for your adjustment settings.
10. Use the adjustment settings to adjust your satellite dish. The settings will tell you what angle to set your mast and what degree to tilt the dish. The mast and dish are clearly marked for these adjustments.
11. Run through the menu settings until you reach the DirecTV set-up channel. You will want to call DirecTV to suggest your programming choices. They will set you up from there.
Tags: adjustment settings, DirecTV system, DirecTV system will, ground block, Installing DirecTV, signal clarity, Slimline Dish
The Ford F-150, the best-selling half-ton pickup truck in America for decades was first marketed in 1975, in the F-series' sixth generation. In 2010, the F-series was in its 12th generation, the F-150 its seventh. The 2002 F-150 was among the F-series' 10th generation, which was in production from 1997 to 2003. The 2002 F-150 was available in two- or four-wheel-drive versions and in many different cab, cargo bed and wheelbase combinations. The truck came in three trim levels starting with the base XL, moving up to the midlevel XLT, and on to the top-of-the-line Lariat. The King Ranch and Harley-Davidson F-150s were two special trim levels available in limited numbers. All models utilized high-impact plastic aerodynamic headlamp assemblies that contained replaceable halogen bulbs.
Instructions
1. Turn the 2002 F-150's headlight switch off and open the hood.
2. Locate the two retaining clips on the rear of the headlight assembly you wish to replace. Pull the clips towards the rear of the truck, then slightly upward (approximately 3/4 inch).
3. Grasp the headlight assembly and slide it straight out of the front of the vehicle to expose the wiring connector at the rear.
4. Pull the wiring connector straight off the back of the headlamp assembly. Remove the headlight assembly from the front of the vehicle. Remove the bulb retaining ring by twisting it off in a counterclockwise direction. Pull the bulb straight out of the back of the headlight assembly.
5. Push a new bulb into the rear of the existing headlight assembly if you're replacing the bulb only, or install the bulb into a replacement headlight assembly. Replace the retaining ring and tighten it by hand in a clockwise direction.
6. Push the bulb wiring connector back into place on the back of the headlight assembly until it is fully seated.
7. Slide the headlight assembly back into place on the front of the truck. Push down and then forward on the retaining tabs to secure the assembly. Close the hood.
Tags: headlight assembly, 2002 F-150, wiring connector, 2002 Ford, back headlight, back headlight assembly, back into
Making your Harley pipes louder can be done in three ways.
Making your Harley pipes louder doesn't necessarily mean that you have to spend a lot of money. What's key, however, is understanding the various options one has as well as understanding what your exhaust system does. Three ways of making your Harley pipes louder are re-tuning the engine, removing the baffles or by swapping out baffles on certain models of Harley-Davidson motorcycles.
Instructions
1. Retune the engine to make Harley pipes louder while improving performance. Out of the factory the Harley Davidson is tuned to meet requirements for noise reduction and emissions standards. To do so, the electronic control unit (ECU) optimizes the air and fuel intakes into the motor for these purposes. By retuning the bike to peak performance with the addition of an computer control unit, you can both make the biker louder and deliver more power. Control units that change the fuel and air flow through the engine are available at dealerships and can be found online.
2. Remove the baffles or drill holes in them to increase air flow through the pipes. By doing so, the motorcycle's pipes will be very loud. However, while drilling out the baffles or drilling holes in them will make the Harley louder, it will not improve performance. In fact, over time the performance of the Harley will drop off.
3. Attach slip on mufflers. There are a number of aftermarket slip on mufflers--some with removable baffles that can be swapped out. Slip on mufflers go on the end of the Harley-header pipes. They are a less expensive alternative to completely installing new pipes. Upon doing so, the engine will need to be retuned to adjust for the new airflow through the fuel and exhaust systems. Slips-on mufflers make your Harley pipes louder and improve performance with out swapping out the entire exhaust system.
Tags: Harley pipes louder, your Harley pipes, your Harley, Harley pipes, pipes louder
Harley-Davidson's iconic V-twin engines are at the heart of the Harley mystique.
Harley-Davidson sold its first motorcycle in 1903. In 1909, the company introduced its first motorcycle powered by a 45-degree V-twin engine. That engine configuration would be the basis for some of the most famous engines in motorcycle history, and an icon for Harley-Davidson. Harley-Davidson engines are almost as well known for their unusual names as they are for their performance.
Harley-Davidson's First V-Twins
The first V-twin produced by Harley-Davidson didn't have a name. The 49.5-cubic-inch, 45-degree twin-cylinder engine produced seven horsepower. Harley-Davidson produced this engine from 1909 to 1911. The F-Head IOE (intake over exhaust) engine replaced that first V-twin in 1911 and remained in production until 1929.
The Flathead
The first Harley-Davidson engine that derived its name from its unique appearance was the 45-cubic-inch Flathead. This engine got its name from the vented tops of the cylinder heads, which were flat. There were no overhead valves in the Flathead. The valves were positioned on the side of the engine. Harley-Davidson introduced the Flathead in 1929, and it proved so reliable, variations of it remained in use until 1973.
The Knucklehead
When Harley-Davidson introduced the new EL model motorcycle in 1936, it came equipped with a new overhead-valve, 61-cubic-inch engine with a recirculating oil system. The motorcycle and the engine were called Knucklehead due to the shape of the rocker boxes. In 1941, Harley-Davidson introduced a 74-cubic-inch version of the Knucklehead. The engine stayed in production until 1947.
The Panhead
Introduced in 1948 in two sizes, 61 and 74 cubic inches, the Panhead had overhead valves, aluminum cylinder heads and hydraulic valve lifters. The Panhead had internal oil lines, routed through the rocker arms. It took its name from the one-piece cake pan-shaped chrome-plated rocker covers. Harley-Davidson produced the Panhead until 1965.
The Shovelhead
Harley-Davidson replaced the Panhead with the Shovelhead in 1966. The Shovelhead featured cast aluminum rocker boxes. The cylinder head was enclosed with a curved top that resembled a shovel. The Shovelhead was produced until 1985.
The Evolution
Harley-Davidson spent seven years developing the Evolution engine. The Evolution was introduced in 1984; it displaced 80 cubic inches and came with steel-lined alloy cylinders. It reportedly generated more power, and ran cooler and cleaner than its predecessors. The Evolution remained in production until 1999.
Twin Cam 88 And 96
The Touring and Dyna families of Harley-Davidson motorcycles were the first to receive the new Twin Cam 88 engine in 1999. The Twin Cam 88 was named for its two camshafts. It was rubber-mounted, to help reduce vibration. In 2000, Harley-Davidson introduced the Twin Cam 88B on its Softail line. The 88B was counterbalanced, hence the "B," and mounted directly to the frame. The Twin Cam 88 and 88B were in production until 2006, when they were replaced by the larger, 96-cubic-inch Twin Cam 96 and Twin Cam 96B. By this time, all Harley-Davidson engines were fuel-injected.
The Revolution
Harley-Davidson made a major departure with its Revolution engine, introduced in 2001. It represented a number of firsts for Harley-Davidson. It was the first to combine fuel injection, four overhead cams and liquid cooling. The Revolution is a 60-degree (as opposed to Harley's traditional 45-degree) V-twin 1,130-cc engine that produces a reported 115 horsepower. The Revolution was introduced -- and is only available on -- the VRSCA V-Rod.
Tags: Harley-Davidson introduced, production until, name from, 1999 Twin, 45-degree V-twin, cubic inches, cylinder heads
The 2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster Custom is available with an 883cc or 1200cc Evolution engine.
Celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2007, the Harley-Davidson Sportster is one of the most enduring street machines in motorcycling history, famous for its numerous racing victories on the track and for winning the hearts of thousands of owners and riders since 1957. Eight Sportster models are featured for 2007, including two Sportster Customs, the Sportster 883 Custom and the Sportster 1200 Custom.
While they exhibit the same raw power and high performance abilities for which all the Sportster models are known, the two 2007 Sportster Customs both feature a low-seat height and unique accents not found on the other Sportster models. The trademark bare-bones style is all dressed up in a thick coat of chrome.
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster 883 Custom
Engine and Performance
Powered by a 53.86 cubic inch (883cc) rubber-mounted Evolution engine, the 2007 Harley-Davidson XL Sportster 883 Custom has an Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPI) fuel system. Fuel capacity is 4.5 U.S. gallons with a fuel economy of 59.7 highway miles per U.S. gallon and 45 city miles per U.S. gallon.
Styling and Convenience
Unique to the model are chrome, tall pull-back riser handlebar; chrome, 21-inch laced steel front wheel; silver, solid disc cast aluminum rear wheel; one-piece two-up seat; and forward-mounted foot controls.
Convenience features include an electronic speedometer with odometer and time of day clock, dual resettable tripmeter and diagnostic readout.
Weight and Dimensions
Relatively lightweight in comparison to other Harley models, the Sportster 883 Custom weighs 591 lbs. with a full tank of gas. It has a low seat height of 26.5 inches in a 90.3-inch frame with a 60.4-inch wheelbase for ease of handling.
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200 Custom
Engine and Performance
At the heart of the Sportster 1200 Custom is a 73.2 cubic inch (1200cc) black powder-coated Evolution engine. An Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPI) fuel system provides easy starts in all climates; fuel capacity is 4.5 U.S. gallons with fuel economy of 57.1 highway miles and 42.4 city miles per U.S. gallon.
Styling and Convenience
The Sportster 1200 Custom has chrome, profile laced aluminum front and rear wheels, pull-back riser handlebar; forward-mounted foot controls. Unique to the model, it features a chrome bullet headlight.
Convenience features include an electronic speedometer with odometer and time of day clock, dual resettable tripmeter and diagnostic readout.
Weight and Dimensions
In keeping with its lightweight heritage, the Sportster 1200 Custom weighs only 589 lbs. in running order. It has a low seat height of 26.5 inches in a 90.3-inch frame with a 60.4-inch wheelbase.
Paint Color Schemes for 2007 Sportster Customs
2007 Sportster 883 Custom
The Sportster 883 Custom is available in Vivid Black, Black Pearl, Fire Red Pearl, Pewter Pearl, White Gold Pearl, Two-Tone Suede Blue Pearl/Vivid Black, Two-Tone Olive Pearl/Vivid Black and Two-Tone Fire Red Pearl/Black Pearl.
Sportster 1200 Custom
The Sportster 1200 Custom is available in Vivid Black, Black Cherry Pearl, Fire Red Pearl, Deep Cobalt Pearl, Pacific Blue Pearl, Pewter Pearl, Yellow Pearl, White Gold Pearl, Two-Tone Olive Pearl/Vivid Black, Two-Tone Black Cherry Pearl/Pewter Pearl, Two-Tone Fire Red Pearl/Black Pearl and Two-Tone Deep Cobalt Pearl/Pewter Pearl.
Forward controls give taller motorcyclists more room to stretch out.
The installation of forward controls on your 2009 Harley-Davidson Dyna motorcycle allows you the comfort of traveling stretched out a bit further than the stock foot pegs or floorboards will allow. Of particular interest to taller riders for whom standard controls feel cramped and tiresome, forward controls have also become a sought-after custom accessory to give the Dyna line of motorcycles a longer, lower look and feel.
Instructions
1. Remove the stock foot pegs from the motorcycle by unbolting them from the frame. The right side includes the brake pedal, while on the left side of the bike, the transmission foot shifter will also be removed. Leave the brake cable and the transmission linkage hanging.
2. Bolt the forward controls into place in the mounting holes for the stock foot pegs. The forward controls are installed as a unit, replacing the brake pedal and the foot shifter. If reusing the stock floorboards, bolt them into place on the forward controls at this time.
3. Install the brake cable, then the transmission shift linkage. Check the brake for adequate adjustment by feel. Tighten or loosen the brake cable nut located near the back tire brake of the motorcycle.
Although nothing beats the scenery, a gift from Scotland can be charming as well
An old Scottish proverb says that "a penny saved is a penny gained" which is exactly what you will do when you buy Scottish gifts wholesale. Whatever your reason for buying in bulk--a Scottish-themed gift shop, a family reunion, or a simple love for everything Scottish--the selection is nearly endless when you search online.
Whiskey
When you think Scotland, one of the first things that comes to mind is their famous whiskey. If you cannot choose which type of Scottish whiskey to purchase opt for Famous Grouse, the brand that brings the most visitors to its distillery each year. They have three best-sellers that can sometimes be difficult to find overseas: "Famous Grouse," an ideal starter for beginning whiskey drinkers; the oaky "12-year," and the celebrated "18-year," which is considered to be one of the finest single malt whiskies distilled in Scotland. You will soon have everyone around you clinking glasses and proclaiming cheers!
Kilts
Kilts, those bold tartan displays of manhood, have been the traditional dress of Scotsmen for centuries. However, that doesn't mean that you have to be a full-blooded Scot to don one; choose from your family's clan or opt for a pattern that catches your eye, there are dozens of varieties available. Once you pick your kilt, there are a host of accessories to complete the outfit, like kilt pins, plaid brooches, sporrans, and ghillie brogues.
Clan Gifts
The Buchanans, MacDowells, Drummonds, and Gladstaines are just four of dozens of clan names that represent complete family lines that have been linked for thousands of years. Choosing a gift can be as simple as starting with the clan name and finding the items that either display their personalized tartan or bear their namesake: coasters, magnets, tea towels, and books are some of the options in this category.
Since the majority of us spend hours in front of a computer monitor, it is good practice to protect your eyes from potential damage. Keep in mind that the following recommendations apply only to properly setting up your workstation to best protect your eyes and does not address other ergonomic needs related to working in front of a computer.
Instructions
Taking Proper Care of Your Eyes
1. Take five-minute breaks every hour by looking off into the distance and looking away from the computer monitor.
2. Just close your eyes for a few minutes when your work requires prolonged data input into the computer.
Keeping Proper Distance and Other Safety Measures
3. Keep the distance of the monitor from your eyes between 16 to 30 inches. Most people find a distance of 20 to 26 inches comfortable.
4. Make sure that the top of the monitor is at a level slightly below the horizontal eye level.
5. Tilt the top of the monitor away from you at a 10- to 20-degree angle. Most monitors are provided with tiltable display screens, which enable you to tilt the monitor to create an optimum viewing angle.
6. Keep your screen free of dust and fingerprints.
7. Use an adjustable chair that enables you to sit at a proper angle and distance from your computer monitor screen.
8. Use document holders to secure any reading material or reference material, if your work involves prolonged data entry. Place the document holders close to the monitor and at the same distance from your eyes as your monitor. This enables your eyes to remain focused as they look from the monitor to the reading material.
9. Use a work surface whose height is 26 inches from the ground.
10. Keep the distance from the front of your chair to the hollow of your knee between 2 to 4 inches.
11. Use a character size that is visible. The character size is an important factor since it determines the distance at which the user prefers to view the monitor.
Changing the Appearance of the Text Fonts on Your Computer Screen
12. Point your cursor anywhere on your desktop and right click on Properties. The Display Properties window appears.
13. Click the Appearance tab on the Display Properties window.
14. Go to the Font Size pull-down menu and choose either "Large Fonts" or "Extra Large Fonts" instead of the "Normal" font that has already been pre-selected by default. That is, if you are working on a Windows XP system. Once you have made a choice, you will see a sample of what you have chosen in the upper part of the Display Properties window. Choose what is comfortable for your eyes.
15. Click on the Apply button.
16. Close the Display Properties window.
Ensuring Proper Lighting
17.Use fluorescent tubes to achieve lower illumination levels. Higher illumination levels wash out the image on the screen. Illumination levels refer to the amount of light falling on a surface measured in lux or foot candles (metric and English systems of measurement respectively).
18. Provide supplementary task lighting through lamps. Task lighting allows workers to adjust the illumination level according to their own preferences, if the illumination level is below the suggested ideal of 50 foot candles.
Ensuring Proper Lighting by Adjusting the Contrast
19. Contrast is the difference in luminance between two areas (the task area and the background area). Prevent excessive contrast within the visual field and reduce the contrast to acceptable
limits by avoiding extremely dark or bright surfaces. The primary reason for this is that vision problems could arise and viewing become difficult when there is high contrast between task and adjacent surroundings.
20. A good display screen also has separate contrast and brightness controls. Adjust the brightness of the background in relation to the characters by adjusting the contrast controls.
21. Control the amount of light emitted from the characters themselves by adjusting the brightness controls.
Ensuring Proper Lighting in Your Work Environment To Prevent Glare
22. Glare is caused by non-uniform distribution of luminance within your visual field, as well as bright luminaires or windows. You can prevent glare by reorienting your work station and moving the sources of glare out of your line of sight.
23. Cover windows with Venetian blinds, draperies, shades or filters to reduce glare from sunlight or the luminaires in your work environment.
24. Use panels to block the intensity of light, thereby reducing glare.
25. Adjust the computer's contrast knob to change the brightness of the screen and characters, which will also reduce glare.
26
Position the screen at right angles to the source of light.
27
Avoid wearing bright clothes which may cause a glare by causing a reflection on the screen.
28
Cover your monitor ith an anti-glare screen.
Ensuring Proper Lighting in Your Work Environment to Prevent Reflective Glare
29
When a worker can see a light on the surface of his or her screen, this is the case of reflective glare. This glare can also be seen on smoothly polished desk tops. The sources of reflected glare can be windows, reflective walls, luminaires or reflective clothing. You can control the reflective glare by the methods suggested in each of the steps below.
30
Reduce the intensity of light source by providing louvres for luminaires, by covering windows or by choosing appropriate height panels.
31
Provide a matte or flat finish on furniture equipment or walls.
32
Tilt the monitor to remove the reflection away from your line of vision. Tilting features are now included in most terminals.
33
Cover the screen with an etched surface or with different types of filters.
Rearranging the Office to Reduce Lighting Problems
34
Position the workstations between rows of luminaires.
35
Place the workstations away from the windows.
36
Place all workstations parallel to the windows.
37
Use panels to block light.
Selecting Video Display Colors to Avoid a Vision Problem Called McCullough Effect
38
When the color of the video display screen is green, some users see pink afterimages. This is an unusual phenomenon called the McCullough Effect. The condition causes people who use computers for hours to see a pinkish fringe around certain images. Although this is a harmless afterimage, the afterimage is created when the retinal nerve cells that perceive the color green become saturated and the color red appears instead. Choose video displays that are not green in color to prevent this vision problem from occurring.
Tags: away from, Display Properties, Display Properties window, Ensuring Proper, Ensuring Proper Lighting, from your