Friday, June 28, 2013

Install Motorcycle Saddle Bags

Motorcycle saddlebags are a necessary accessory for carrying items, be they groceries, books, or clothing for a trip. Saddlebags are made in a variety of materials such as leather, hard plastic, sturdy nylon or with soft-sided cooler insulation. They also come in a variety of sizes: compact and convenient, medium-sized, or large cruising bags. Saddlebags typically come with waterproof covers and straps so they can be firmly secured to the frame.


Instructions


1. Use the key to unlock the seat from the frame and lift off the seat. The seat lock will be located in close proximity to the seat.


2. Position the saddlebags toward the rear of the space that was exposed by the removal of the seat. Saddlebags, one for each side, are connected by straps so they can be held in place once the seat is reinstalled.


3. Attach security straps to frame and clip into the saddlebags. These will hold the bags closer to the frame so they will not bang around when the motorcycle is being ridden.


4. Replace the seat, ensuring it has been locked back into place.

Tags: straps they

Teen Boy Bedroom Themes With Flames

Flame designs add style to a teenage bedroom.


When planning a bedroom decorating project, consider major updates for younger teenagers who have several years left before leaving home and minor updates for older teenagers with one foot out the door. Whatever the changes made, let your teen's personality shine through. Does this Spark an idea?


Muscle Cars


If your boy is in his mid-teens or if you live in a rental property, consider making minimal decor changes. Keep it simple and outfit your boy's room with strategically placed metal signs of retro muscle cars and hot rods emblazoned in flames. Add more emphasis with switch plates or mirrors with flame designs. If painting the walls, consider a gray or tan that will complement the reds and oranges of the flames.


Skulls


A skull theme is another good choice for an older teen because it can minimal and understated. Make fabric wall art in the shapes of flames or skulls. Use fabric with a flame pattern or shades of bone white or fiery reds, oranges, yellows and cut out your desired shape, skull or flame. Then, apply a fabric stiffener and iron the shape onto the wall. The size of the shapes is up to you as is their purpose. Either place the fabric skulls and flames on the wall or let them work for you. Use fabric flames to frame photographs or as a border around otherwise dull bulletin board. The fabric art leaves no sticky residue on the wall when removed. Further the effect with several skull sculptures placed about the room, either on the bookcase or bureau, and bed linens with skull patterns.


Motorcycles


A motorcycle theme can be minimal and understated for an older teen or over-the-top and excessive for a younger teen. If you want minimal, outfit the room with flame wall decals that can be easily removed. However, you are going to have to bust out the paint brush if you want to be excessive. Paint the walls black and then add either wall decals in flame shapes or paint the flames yourself. The former are, again, removable but the latter are customizable. Paint flames around the headboard, paint flames around a motorcycle wall decal or around a Harley Davidson motorcycle sign. Further enhance the motorcycle theme with Harley Davidson products such as a clock or wall shelf.


Rock 'n' Roll


Nothing says excess like rock and roll, especially the hard rock and heavy metal genres. Rather than painting a flame on the wall to frame the headboard, make one. Cover a piece of quarter-inch plywood in a base layer of cotton batting and a top layer of fabric in a flame pattern and then nail it to the wall. For more, cut the plywood in a flame shape and paint in the traditional fire colors of red, orange and yellow. Wall decals of guitars or posters of bands such as classic metal band Kiss plus bedding and pillows with guitar designs will round out the theme.







Tags: with flame, flame pattern, flame wall, flames around, Harley Davidson, minimal understated, motorcycle theme

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Replace A Fulmer Helmet Face Shield

If you've visited a motorcycle dealership recently, you may have noticed a growing selection of full-faced motorcycle helmets made available by the Fulmer Motorcycle Helmet Company. Competitively priced and dressed in vibrant exterior graphics, Fulmer's helmets have an additional ace up their sleeve in the form of their QR1 quick-release face shield mechanism. Unfortunately, most of the helmets displayed in the showroom tend to lose their owner's manual, leaving many Fulmer owners wondering replace their face shield. With some practice, you'll be able to replace your face shield in less than a minute.


Instructions


1. Hold the helmet on your lap with the face shield facing you. Raise the face shield until it is opened completely to reveal the spring-loaded release levers on the face shield's base plates.


2. Pull the release levers down with your fingers, and push up on the face shield with your thumbs. Pull the face shield away once it pops out of the base plates.


3. Turn the helmet to one side, and place the new face shield against it. Align the round tab on the inside of the face shield's corner with the round catch on the top of the base plate, then press it into place. Hold the face shield in position, and repeat on the opposite base plate.


4. Press the sides of the face shield against the helmet, and lower it over the helmet's eye port. The release levers will lock into place with a slight snapping sound if the face shield has been successfully installed. Remove the face shield, and reinstall it if the shield binds while being lowered.







Tags: face shield, face shield, release levers, base plate, base plates

Where Rent A Plumbing Snake

There are few things that can ruin a day faster than a clogged drain, especially in a bathroom. Whether it's caused by a build up of hair, grease or an errant toy, drains sometimes require more than a simple plunger to unclog.


Most plumbing experts advise against using chemicals to unclog drains--and if the clog is big or solid enough, it wouldn't work anyway. A plumbing snake is easy to rent. Even a novice can use the tool. Does this Spark an idea?

Which Type of Snake?


Before you call a tool rental place, figure out which type of drain snake you'll need. A cable auger, or plumber's snake, with a hand crank is great for most typical drain clogs. Homeowners might want to purchase one of these; at $25 or under, they're inexpensive and handy to have around.


For toilets, rent a closet auger. It's angled to fit through toilet traps and also comes with a hand crank. Expect to pay $40 or under to purchase one, or less to rent.


Major clogs, like tree roots or clogs far away from the access point, call for an electric power auger. These tools require more skill. Before you leave the rental place, learn get the snake back to the machine. Electric power augers cost about $30 to rent.


Home Improvement Centers


These days, just about everybody has a big home improvement center near them, such as Home Depot. Most of Home Depot's stores include a tool rental center.


Use the Home Depot website to input your zip code and find the nearest tool rental center. They don't list prices on line, so call to ask how much a snake rental costs and reserve the item. Home Depot has rates for half days or full days or more.


Some regions have home improvement retail chains, such as Ace Hardware, Dixieline and others that also have tool rental centers in their stores. These are worth a look if there's one close by.


Local Tool Centers


If there's no home improvement center nearby, look for a local tool rental place. The easiest way to find one is to use an Internet search engine. Type "rent plumbing snake" and then your city or zip code. A list of possibilities will appear.


Look through several listings to find the best price and deal. Some places will rent by the half days, while others only do full day but charge more. Local tool rental centers often post their prices online.


While a few tool places have online reservation options, most require a phone call and a credit card number to reserve the item.


Prices vary by region. For example, rental prices in Honolulu are about double what you would pay in Maryland.







Tags: tool rental, Home Depot, rental place, half days, hand crank, home improvement

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Information On Harley Davidson Retirement Rides

A long retirement ride is a dream of many Harley owners.


Many Harley Davidson owners dream of taking a long ride after they retire. At this point they will finally have the time to see all the places they have heard about, touring the open roads on their bikes with a new sense of freedom. With a little research, this dream can easily become a reality.


Motorcycle Laws


Motorcycle helmet laws vary from state to state.


Investigate the laws regarding motorcycle use in the states you are riding through. Laws regarding helmet use, riding two abreast, speed limits and eye protection vary from state to state. Be prepared in advance, so there are no surprises.


Map Harley Locations


A Harley Davidson dealership may come in handy on a ride.


It always is nice to know where there is a Harley dealer nearby along your route. In case parts or service are needed, you will have an idea of how long it will take you to get there. Investigate these locations beforehand for a sense of security on your ride.


Investigate Harley Rides


A Harley Davidson road atlas will lead you to scenic routes.


Harley Davidson has featured rides that can be researched in ride atlases. These pre-mapped highway routes are planned by Harley Davidson and, therefore, are ideal for touring on your bike. They show points of interest, scenic routes and any long-term construction that might hinder your progress.


Map Distances and Mileage


Plot your route before you are on the road.


Harley Davidson ride manuals will help you determine your route easily before you go. You can plot mileage between stops or rests, figure out where you will need to stop for the night and whether a hotel is nearby. These guides show campgrounds, so if you choose to camp, you can set up your reservation before you go. If you are a member of AAA, you also can get travel advice, maps and AAA TourBook or CampBook Guides at your local branch.







Tags: Harley Davidson, your route, from state, from state state, scenic routes, state state, vary from

Remove A Motorcycle Clutch Lever

The clutch lever is easy to remove with some common tools and a little motorcycle know-how.


The clutch lever of a motorcycle engages and disengages the clutch as it is pulled and released. This allows for the shifting of gears in the transmission and is a fundamental part of the motorcycle's drivetrain. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the clutch lever, such as when replacing the clutch cable or installing a new handlebar on your bike. The process is relatively simple and can be done at home with tools you may already own.


Instructions


1. Pull back the rubber covering at the end of the clutch lever to access the clutch cable barrel adjuster.


2. Twist the two pieces of the barrel adjuster counterclockwise until the cutout in both pieces lines up with the cutout on the clutch lever.


3. Pull the cable housing out of the cable housing stop of the barrel adjuster then push the cable through the cutout in the barrel adjuster and clutch lever. Pull the clutch lever to reveal the cable end. Slide the cable end out of the clutch lever to free the cable and housing from the clutch lever.


4. Loosen and remove the clutch lever clamp bolts on the rear-facing part of the clutch lever clamp with a socket wrench and socket. Remove the clutch lever and clamp from the handlebar.


5. Attach the clutch lever clamp and mounting bolts onto the clutch lever so they don't get lost and set the clutch lever aside.







Tags: clutch lever, clutch lever, barrel adjuster, clutch lever clamp, lever clamp, cable housing, clutch cable

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Change A Clutch Cable On A Buell

Replacing the clutch cable is relatively simple, but can be time-consuming


Based on Harley-Davidson's powerful V-twin motors, Buell's line of sport motorcycles are built to be ridden hard. However, the motorcycle's steel clutch cable can stretch or snap after many long and fast rides. Replacing a worn-out clutch cable is a fairly simple task, but can be time-consuming since the cable is connected to the transmission's internal clutch mechanism. This requires you to open the motor's primary housing to access and remove the cable. Be sure to take your time to avoid making mistakes that could potentially damage your motorcycle.


Instructions


Clutch Cable Removal


1. Remove the lower chin fairing from the motorcycle. Using a Torx driver, remove the Torx-head bolts and washers from the center and side panels of the chin fairing. Lower the chin fairing to the ground and pull it away from the motorcycle.


2. Pull the cable out of the cable holder under the steering head. Using a Torx driver, remove the Torx-head bolts that secure the tie bar to the V-shaped bracket on the bottom front of the motor. Remove the tie bar and the clutch cable's P-clamp from the V-shaped bracket.


3. Follow the clutch cable from the motor up to the handlebars. Using a razor blade, cut the nylon cable strap that secures the clutch cable to the voltage regulator's wiring harness.


4. Push the rubber clutch cable's adjuster boot, located at the midpoint of the cable, up and away from the cable adjuster. Loosen the cable adjuster's lock nut with a 10 mm wrench. Twist the adjuster clockwise until it is seated against the cable end to loosen the cable completely.


5. Pull the clutch cable out of the clutch perch, sliding the inner steel cable through the groove cut into the perch. Pull the cable's end barrel out of the clutch lever. Pull the cable away from the upper fork clamp and handlebars.


6. Using a socket wrench, remove the flange bolt that secures the shift lever to the motor's primary cover. Pull the shift lever away from the motor. Remove the clutch-inspection cover from the primary cover, using a Torx driver to unscrew all three Torx-head bolts.


7. Pull the spring off the hexagonal adjusting screw. Using a socket wrench, twist the adjusting screw clockwise to loosen the ramp hook that secures the clutch cable to the clutch mechanism. Pull the cable's barrel end out of the clutch mechanism. Unscrew the outer clutch cable from the primary housing and pull the cable away from the motorcycle.


Clutch Cable Installation


8. Prepare the new cable. Push the rubber clutch cable's adjuster boot, located at the midpoint of the cable, up and away from the cable adjuster. Loosen the cable adjuster's lock nut with a 10 mm wrench. Twist the adjuster clockwise until it is seated against the cable end to loosen the cable completely.


9. Slip a new cable O-ring over the threaded end of the clutch cable. Screw the threaded end of the clutch cable into the primary cover, pushing the inner cable and barrel end into the primary housing. Slip the barrel end into the notch of the clutch mechanism's cable coupling. Use a socket wrench to twist the adjusting screw counterclockwise to tighten the ramp hook over the clutch mechanism. Slip the spring over the adjusting screw. Reinstall the clutch-inspection cover, using a Torx driver to insert and tighten all three Torx-head bolts.


10. Route the clutch cable up from the motor to the handlebars. Insert the barrel end of the cable into the clutch lever's catch and pull the inner cable through the groove cut into the lever. Pull the inner cable through the groove cut into the clutch-lever perch.


11. Place the P-clamp over the clutch cable and reattach the P-clamp and tie bar to the V-shaped bracket on the bottom front of the motor, using a Torx driver to insert and tighten the bolts. Slip the upper portion of the clutch cable into the cable holder under the steering head. Secure the cable to the voltage regulator's wiring harness with a nylon cable tie.


12. Pull the clutch lever in three times to set the clutch mechanism's ramp, then release the clutch lever completely. Pull the clutch cable away from the clutch perch and hold it in position. Tighten the clutch cable by twisting the cable adjuster counterclockwise until there is 1/16- to 1/8-inch of excess inner cable showing between the cable and the clutch-lever perch. Tighten the cable adjuster's lock nut with a 10 mm wrench and slide the rubber boot over the adjuster.


13. Slide the lower chin fairing under the motorcycle. Lift the chin fairing into position beneath the motor. Insert and tighten the Torx-head bolts and washers into the side and front panels of the chin fairing using a Torx driver.







Tags: clutch cable, cable adjuster, away from, chin fairing, clutch mechanism, Torx driver, cable away

Symptoms Of A Bad Voltage Regulator

A bad voltage regulator can leave a vehicle sitting on the side of the road.


A voltage regulator maintains an even flow of electrical power to an automobile's electrical systems, including the headlights, dashboard components and the stereo. When the parts fail or begin to show symptoms of failing, it can have far-reaching implications to the viability of the automobile. You may notice dimming headlights or unpredictable engine function and even a dead battery. As soon as you notice the symptoms, take the vehicle for an in-depth inspection before the problem leaves you on the side of the road.


Dimming or Pulsing Lights


A damaged or failed voltage regulator can rapidly diminish the alternator's ability to cycle power from the battery. This may cause the vehicle to experience dimming or pulsating external systems, such as headlights and dashboard elements. In addition, the "check engine" or "battery" light may appear on the dashboard when the initial failure is detected by the vehicle's on-board computer.


Dead Battery


A burned-out voltage regulator will diminish the vehicle battery's ability to charge or stop it altogether. You will quickly find the vehicle unable to start due to a dead battery. If the battery is recharged, the vehicle will start, although the faulty voltage regulator will only cause the battery to lose power rapidly. In this case, the vehicle should immediately be taken to a mechanic once the battery has been recharged or the car has been jump-started to have the voltage regulator replaced.


Unpredictable Engine Performance


Some aftermarket voltage regulators have experienced problems working in factory-built systems. Engine stalling, sputtering and intermittent acceleration will occur when the vehicle's voltage regulator is unable to handle the power put out by the vehicle's stock (and faster-moving) alternator. This causes the regulator to burn out quickly because it was overworked. Have either a certified mechanic or someone with extensive knowledge of the vehicle being modified look at the aftermarket parts.







Tags: voltage regulator, headlights dashboard, regulator will, side road, voltage regulator

Monday, June 24, 2013

Harley Mechanic Schools

Harley-Davidson training often includes assembly and disassembly of bikes.


Motorcycle technology programs across the U.S. offer valuable education for mechanics working in motorcycle repair. With an education in Harley mechanics, students can go on to careers at Harley-Davidson repair shops. Multiple Harley mechanic schools teach core motorcycle repair principles, in addition to concentration in Harley-Davidson models.


Motorcycle Mechanics Institute


Universal Technical Institute provides schooling in multiple mechanic repair industries, including Motorcycle Mechanics Institutes (MMI). In Florida and Arizona, MMI provides Harley-Davidson mechanical training and certificates. The MMI Motorcycle Technology program is 48 weeks long and new courses start every six weeks. Elective training for Harley-Davidson is 12 weeks.


ATI Career Training Center


ATI Career Training Center in North Richland Hills, Texas, provides training for Motorcycle Service Technicians, including Harley-Davidson courses. Their program features conventional and computerized electrical systems; computerized diagnostic systems; fuel and ignition systems; and brakes, steering and suspension systems.


Lincoln Technical Institute


The Lincoln Technical Instiute in East Windsor, Connecticut, also provides career training in motorcycle technology. The school provides training for many manufacturers, including Harley-Davidson. The hands-on training courses teach the operations of motorcycle engines, brakes, suspension, transmission, steering, electrical and electronic systems. In addition, Lincoln Technical Institute students learn exhausts and power systems, as well as motorcycle construction and routine maintenance.


WyoTech


With multiple campuses across the U.S., WyoTech offers Harley-Davidson concentration programs after the core motorcycle technology training. The courses encompass core principles in Harley engines, chassis and engine controls. Teachers emphasize inspection, assembly of twin engines, V-rod engines, disassembly and inspection.







Tags: Lincoln Technical, Technical Institute, Career Training Center, core motorcycle, including Harley-Davidson

Mount Saddlebags On A Harleydavidson

There are lots of different saddlebags that you can mount on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle, ranging from hard shell to soft leather. Each type of saddlebag uses its own style of bolt and fasteners, but you will find that the process for attaching each style of bag is relatively the same. The job is fairly simple, but remember that installing saddlebags on your Harley-Davidson requires that you make permanent modifications to the bike.


Instructions


1. Have a helper hold the saddlebag against the side of the rear fender. Position the saddlebag level and in the center of the fender.


2. Mark the mounting holes in the saddlebag onto the fender with a black marker. Place the saddlebag off to the side.


3. Drill holes in the fender with a drill and drill bit. Make sure you do not go too far through the backside of the fender or you will puncture your rear tire.


4. Place the bolts through the backside of the fender so the bolt heads are between the fender and the tire.


5. Place the saddlebag onto the bolts protruding from the fender. In some cases, your saddlebag has thick rubber washers that go between the fender and the saddlebag. If this is the case, slide the washers onto the bolts before you put the saddlebag onto the bolts.


6. Secure the bolt heads with a wrench. Thread the nuts onto the bolts and tighten them with a second wrench.







Tags: onto bolts, saddlebag onto, backside fender, between fender, bolt heads, fender with

Harleydavidson Tricks & Tips For Performance

Riding motorcycles is an enjoyable acitivity.


Harley-Davidson tips and tricks for performance are easy enough that anyone can get the most out of his motorcycle. All it takes is the ability to follow instructions and the determination to get your hands dirty. It is also a matter of pride for Harley-Davidson owners to be able to get greater performance from their motorcycle on their own, without bringing it in to a service shop.


Synthetic Oil


Synthetic oil is better for Harley-Davidson motorcycles.


Some Harley-Davidson owners have experimented with using various kinds of motor oil to determine what makes their Harley-Davidsons run better and smoother. According to the Harley-performance.com website, using synthetic motor oil over petroleum-based oils results in superior performance. Using synthetic oil that is non-Harley-Davidson branded--such as Amsoil--equals even better performance than when using Harley-Davidson-branded synthetic oil. After his experiment, the Harley-performance.com website owner discovered that synthetic motor oil provided his Harley-Davidson with cooler operating temperatures and much-improved shifting.


Carburetor Jetting


Carburetor jetting helps if your Harley-Davidson still operates too lean.


Carburetor jetting should be done on a Harley-Davidson if the carburetor has been tuned, yet your motorcycle is still operating too lean. Carburetor jetting involves first replacing the motorcycle's pilot jet and then the main jet. The main jet should only be replaced once the midrange and the idle of your Harley-Davidson's engine have been sufficiently adjusted. You don't need to be a mechanic to successfully complete this performance tip; you require only screwdrivers and a collection of jets.


Upgrading the Carburetor


Upgrading a Harley-Davidson's carburetor is a simple task.


If your Harley-Davidson was made before 1989, it likely has a butterfly carburetor instead of the newer constant velocity carburetor. The latter type of carburetor provides a beneficial gas mileage along with above average performance, which is why you may be interested in upgrading. Upgrading a Harley-Davidson carburetor from the butterfly type to the constant velocity type is a straightforward process. In many cases, it only involves fitting a flange adapter in between your Harley-Davidson's manifold and its carburetor.


Using a Battery Tender


A battery tender will keep your Harley-Davidson running throughout the day.


A battery tender is a necessity if you do not use your Harley-Davidson every day, or if the motorcycle is in storage for a certain number of days. According to the Harley-performance.com website, batteries that are stored for only 12 days will lose nearly half of their charge. To guard against this, Harley-Davidson owners should invest in a battery tender. All it takes is attaching your alligator clips to the tender's terminals, and then plugging the tender into an outlet. A final, useful tip is to keep the battery tender connected to your motorcycle over night; this should reduce any chances of your Harley-Davidson leaving you stranded when you ride it.







Tags: your Harley-Davidson, Harley-Davidson carburetor, Harley-Davidson owners, Harley-performance website, According Harley-performance, According Harley-performance website, battery tender

Friday, June 21, 2013

Reset A Directv Box That Is Malfunctioning

You can reset a malfunctioning DirecTV box.


Some DirecTV boxes develop a problem in which they cannot regain the satellite signal after being disconnected. In such a case, you will see a message on your TV screen that says "Searching for signal." This problem happens primarily in apartment complexes or other buildings in which multiple customers are sharing a single antenna. To avoid having to call out a repairman, try a few steps on your own.


Instructions


1. Check the cable connections. In particular, verify that the "Satellite In" and the "Satellite Out" cables are connected to the proper ports.


2. Check to make sure that the box is connected to a phone outlet and that the phone line is working.


3. Check that your satellite dish is properly connected and has not been blown out of position by weather.


4. Press the "Reset" button on your DirecTV box. This is a small red button located next to where the account card is plugged in. See if the unit resets properly and finds a signal. If no signal is found, proceed to Step 5. Some boxes have a defect that causes them to search for a different satellite dish signal when they boot up. The following steps bypass this boot-up glitch, forcing the box to accept the existing signal.


5. Disconnect the "Satellite In" cable from the box.


6. Unplug the DirecTV box from the wall. Wait five minutes and plug it back in.


7. Turn on the box and let it boot up. Wait until you see the white screen with a message that says "Searching for signal."


8. Plug the "Satellite In" cable back into the unit. You should now have a signal.







Tags: Satellite cable, satellite dish, says Searching, says Searching signal, Searching signal, that says, that says Searching

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Get Started In Hot Shot Hauling

Hot shot haulers help save space on larger trucks for other needed freight deliveries.


Hot shot hauling involves carrying smaller loads of goods than what is considered a full load for a full-sized semi. Hot shot haulers drive one-ton dually pick-ups that can pull a 40-foot gooseneck trailer. The practice of hiring hot shot haulers saves companies resources and expenses when a full-size semi-truck is not needed. In addition, hot shot haulers can often deliver loads in less time than even an expedited freighter can. Hot shot haulers own their own vehicles and trailers and often work as independent contractors for one specific carrier. Because of this, hot shot haulers are responsible for the costs of maintaining their own vehicles, fuel costs, and liability insurance. Carrier companies handle invoicing, paperwork, scheduling, and customer relations.


Instructions


1. Find a trucking company that you would like to work with. Check job listings in your area for companies hiring hot shot drivers. Online classified sites like Craigslist and forums dedicated to truckers are also good places to find hot shot companies.


2. After you're hired, talk to managers within the company about what you have to offer and the benefits of working for them. Meet other hot shot haulers who work for the company and find out what the working conditions and pay are like.


3. Take a DOT physical and drug test. This is required of hot shot haulers in most states. The trucking company that you signed with will give you instructions on where to find test sites.


4. Purchase or lease a hot shot hauler truck and trailer.


5. Take the steps to make your hot shot hauling rig legal. Tag the vehicle appropriately. Hot shot haulers need apportioned plates just like larger trucks. You will also need full coverage vehicle insurance for the truck.







Tags: shot haulers, company that, hiring shot, larger trucks, shot hauling, their vehicles

Specifications For A 1995 Harley 883 Sportster

The 883cc V-twin is the smallest of the Sportster engines produced since 1986.


The Sportster model motorcycles have been some of the most popular in the Harley-Davidson product line, having been produced continuously since 1957. The "883" designation refers to the capacity of the bike's V-twin engine, the 883 cubic-centimeter version being the smallest of the Sportster engines produced since 1986. Several small changes were made to the Sportster line in the 1995 model year.


Engine and Performance


The 883-centimeter Sportster engine is a four-stroke engine with two cylinders in a V-type configuration. It has a 3-inch bore, a 3.81-inch stroke and a compression ratio of 9:1. It develops 42 horsepower at 5,600 rpm and produces 58.8 ft.-lbs. of torque at 4,400 rpm. The engine is air cooled and features electronic ignition. The bike's top speed is approximately 92 mph, and it is capable of accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in eight seconds.


Drivetrain, Chassis, Suspension and Brakes


Beginning in 1993, a belt drive replaced the chain drive on all Sportster models, and in 1991 a 5-speed transmission became standard. The bike has a double-cradle steel frame, cartridge front suspension and twin-shock rear suspension. Front and rear disk brakes are standard. Curb weight is 489 pounds, resulting in a power ratio of 6.34 pounds/horsepower.


New Features in 1995


In 1995, a vacuum-activated petcock was added to all Sportster models, which required the ignition switch to be moved to the steering column. Also in this model year, an electronic speedometer replaced the mechanical speedometer used on earlier models. Retail prices for 1995 883 Sportsters ranged from $4,995 for the XLH model to $6,120 for the "Sportster Deluxe" model.







Tags: engines produced, engines produced since, model year, produced since, produced since 1986

Service A Harleydavidson

Properly service your Harley for safety and reliability.


Harley-Davidson publishes well-defined maintenance schedules and service intervals in every service manual. The maintenance schedule is based on years of experience with the product and is designed to keep the bike operating at peak efficiency while maintaining the safety of the rider. Properly following the service intervals and performing the maintenance will help prevent costly engine damage and unsafe riding conditions. The maintenance schedule is the same across the recent model families and years, although the actual procedures will vary depending on year, model and engine family.


Instructions


5,000-Mile Service


1. Remove the engine oil drain plug and drain the oil. Replace the drain plug gasket and install the drain plug. Twist the engine oil filter off the filter base and discard the filter. Lubricate the filter gasket with a light coat of fresh engine oil. Spin the filter onto the base until the gasket makes contact, and then turn it an additional one-quarter turn. Refill the engine oil. Perform the oil change every 5,000 miles.


2. Remove the air cleaner filter and inspect it for damage or clogging. Gently blow the filter out using compressed air to remove excess dirt and replace it if damaged. Do not bang the filter against a hard object to dislodge debris.


3. Inspect the tires for damage or tread wear and replace as necessary. Check the tire pressure and adjust as necessary.


4. Readjust the clutch every 5,000 miles according to the procedures for the year and model of your Harley.


5. Inspect, adjust and lubricate the throttle, clutch and brake controls every 5,000 miles. Remove tension from the cables and remove the cables from the throttle grip and clutch lever. Install a cable lubricator tool on the end of the cables and then spray lubricant into the cables. Reinstall and adjust the cables according to specification for your year and model of Harley.


6. Check the level and condition of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoirs. The type of brake fluid required for your Harley is embossed on top of the master cylinder reservoir cap.


7. Inspect the brake pads for wear. Replace the brake pads if the friction material reaches 0.04 inch. Look for damage, such as scoring, on the brake discs and replace the discs as necessary. Harley-Davidson does not allow turning the discs on late-model bikes. Check with an authorized service center to determine whether your discs can be turned on a lathe.


8. Remove and inspect the spark plugs for damage, wear and fouling, and replace as necessary.


9. Inspect the exhaust system for damage, leaks and missing fasteners and heat shields. Leaks usually develop at the exhaust gasket where the exhaust pipes meet the heads. Carbon appears on the chrome pipes when leaks are present.


10. Inspect the rear drive belt and pulleys for wear or damage and replace as necessary. Locate the debris deflector viewing window on the rear drive belt guard. Place the belt tensioner gauge against the underside of the belt next to the window and press the gauge upward until it reads "15 pounds." Look through the debris deflector viewing window and note the amount of belt deflection as indicated by the graduations marked on the sight glass. Check the belt tension and alignment and adjust as necessary according to the specifications for your year and model of Harley.


11. Strike each spoke on the wheels with a spoke wrench and listen to the resulting tone. A low or dull tone indicates a loose spoke. Tighten the spoke with the wrench until it rings with the same tone as the rest of the spokes. Check the wheel spokes for tightness at the first 5,000 miles, and every 15,000 miles thereafter. For safety reasons, Harley-Davidson recommends spoke adjustment be performed by an authorized service center if more than one or two spokes require tightening.


12. Check all electrical switches and devices for proper operation. In basic terms, this is a light and horn check.


13. Check the oil lines, brake hoses and associated fittings, as well as the fuel lines and fittings for cracks or leaks. For safety reasons, Harley-Davidson recommends these checks be performed by an authorized service center.


10,000-Mile Service


14. Drain the primary chaincase and replace the chaincase drain plug gasket. Refill the primary chaincase with primary chaincase lubricant.


15. Inspect the jiffy stand for cracks or damage and lubricate it. Cracks can develop on the stand itself rather than on the stand's swivel mount. This damage is usually caused by resting the bike on the jiffy stand and then sitting on the bike. For safety reasons, Harley-Davidson recommends jiffy stand inspection be performed by an authorized service center. If a damaged jiffy stand breaks under load, personal injury and damage to the bike can be severe.


16. Check the tightness of the critical fasteners, such as the motor mounts, transmission mounts and stabilizer links. For safety reasons, Harley-Davidson recommends this check be performed by an authorized service center.


17.Drain and replace the front fork oil and replace the drain plug gasket. This procedure requires the use of a fork holding tool. This is a specialized tool that most bike owners will not have and are not qualified to operate. Do not attempt to drain and replace the front fork oil if you are not qualified to perform this procedure.


18. Adjust the steering head bearings for fall-away. Most bike owners are not qualified to perform this procedure. Do not attempt to assess or adjust fall-away if you are not qualified to perform this procedure.


20,000-Mile and Over Service


19. Drain the transmission and replace the transmission drain plug gasket. Refill the transmission with transmission lubricant every 20,000 miles.


20. Replace the spark plugs every 20,000 miles. Do not overtighten the plugs. Damage to the aluminum engine can result if the plugs are overtightened.


21. Replace the fuel filter every 25,000 miles. The filter is located inside the fuel tank. On recent year, fuel-injected models, the filter mounts on the fuel pump. On earlier, models with carburetors, the filter mounts on the petcock at the bottom of the tank. If you are uncomfortable performing fuel system procedures, Harley-Davidson recommends the fuel filter replacement be performed by an authorized service center for safety reasons.


22. Inspect the rear fork bearings every 30,000 miles for signs of damage or cracking. Most bike owners are not qualified to replace the rear fork bearings. Do not attempt to replace the bearings if you are not qualified to perform this procedure.


23. Disassemble, inspect and lubricate the steering head bearings every 30,000 miles. Most bike owners are not qualified to perform this procedure. Do not attempt to disassemble or lubricant the steering head if you are not qualified.


24. Inspect the battery for cracks or damage and clean the battery and battery cable terminals once a year. Clean the battery with a solution of 5 teaspoons of baking soda to 1 quart of water.


25. Perform a road test to check the operation of all systems after every service. Perform a low-speed test in a controlled environment, such as a parking lot, before taking the bike into traffic.

Tags: every miles, authorized service, authorized service center, drain plug, service center

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Import Harley Davidson Motorcycles To New Zealand

You can import a Harley Davidson motorcycle to New Zealand by working with an entry certifier.


You can import a Harley Davidson Motorcycle from the United States or another country to New Zealand as long as it meets New Zealand's regulations for road safety. Shipping a motorcycle to New Zealand is expensive, so it's important to make sure your bike meets all of New Zealand's importation standards and also to make sure that you have all the proper documentation so your bike doesn't get turned away at the border.


Instructions


1. You can import a new or used Harley Davidson motorcycle to New Zealand. The certification requirements differ between new and used bikes, so be sure to specify new or used when researching laws and filling out paperwork.


2. Get a Statement of Compliance. You need to have a Statement of Compliance from an authorized representative of the manufacturer before bringing a motorcycle into New Zealand. This is often your local Harley Davidson dealer. A Statement of Compliance is an official letter listing the standards for which the motorcycle is certified. It must have a cover letter on company letterhead, and the authorized representative must sign both the cover letter and the statement. You will need the original documents to present to the entry certifier in New Zealand.


3. Identify the Requirements for Your Motorcycle. New Zealand's official government website lists the requirements for imported motorcycles based on the bike's age, class, condition, certification and roadworthiness. This is where you need to specify whether the bike is new or used because the requirements are different.


4. Prove Your Harley Meets the Requirements. Review the requirements for new or used motorcycles on New Zealand's website. You should be able to compare the standards with those on your Statement of Compliance. You will also need a to prove ownership of the vehicle with a title or bank note.


5. Hire a Shipping Company. You can get quotes for shipping a motorcycle overseas from companies online. Find the one that meets all your needs and is within your budget.


6. Contact an Entry Certifier. New Zealand's Transport Agency lists four official entry certifying companies on its website. These companies are authorized to complete entry certification inspections on your Harley when it arrives. You can set up an inspection and ask any questions about the importing process with an entry certifier.


7. Pass Customs and Security. Your Harley will need to pass a biosecurity check and customs checks when it comes into New Zealand. Make sure you have all your documentation for these processes.


8. Have Your Harley Davidson Certified. Once your motorcycle arrives, take it to the entry certifier to inspect it. Once it's certified you can register it in New Zealand.







Tags: Harley Davidson, entry certifier, Statement Compliance, motorcycle Zealand, authorized representative

Cut A Magnolia Tree

A mature magnolia tree.


Some varieties of magnolia trees can reach 25 feet tall. How you cut and shape a magnolia tree will dictate whether it will grow to be the size of a large tree or a shrub. Begin pruning your magnolia tree when it is young, then, by the time it is a mature shade tree, you will only need to make a few cuts each year to help it keep its shape. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Prune your tree when you plant it.


Prune a magnolia tree when you plant it. Clip back new vertical shoots 1/8 inch from the trunk with pruning shears. Clip limbs with very narrow crotch angles 1/8 inch from the branch. Clip any diseased and damaged branches 1/8 inch from the trunk. Select and allow scaffold limbs to grow into a thick main structure for the tree and, using loppers, remove the excess branches that will not become scaffold limbs.


2. Cut vertical branches in the spring.


Prune the tree each year in the spring, after the flowers bloom. Cut branches that have grown taller than the others with the loppers. Cut one third to one half of the vertical branches back 1/8 inch from the trunk of the tree. Bend back the other vertical branches to weaken their growth and stop them from spoiling the shape of the tree. Clip diseased and damaged branches with pruning shears.


3. A mature magnolia trees should be pruned very little.


Prune mature magnolia trees very little, as they reach 20 years or older and their growth rate slows. Prune only the tallest branches or the ones with a limb spread that is wider than the rest of the branches. Cut these branches back to 1/8 inch from the trunk with your loppers. Clip back diseased and damaged branches with pruning shears or loppers, again, 1/8 inch from the trunk.







Tags: inch from, from trunk, inch from trunk, magnolia tree, damaged branches, diseased damaged

Install Saddlebags

Either soft- or hard-side saddlebags can be installed on most motorcycles.


Saddlebags are used by motorcycle riders for storage and portability of items that would otherwise be difficult to carry on a bike. The design of saddlebags on motorcycles has changed and developed over the years. There are many more options on the market today than just the sI, leather bags that used to rule the market. Installing saddlebags on a bike can add style and functionality to any motorcycle.


Instructions


1. Prepare the fender bolt area on the bike for the saddlebags by cleaning the area to remove any dirt or grim. Failure to properly clean this area could result in permanent scratches to the bike once the saddlebags are installed.


2. Install the mounting brackets to the rear fender of the bike. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for this step as different brands of saddlebags have unique mounting instructions. Contact the manufacturer if the directions are unclear or take the bags and the bike to a cycle shop for help.


3. Position the saddlebags onto the mounting brackets. Inspect the position of the bags before securing them to the mounting brackets to make sure the bags aren't hanging to low or rubbing a part of the bike they shouldn't.


4. Attach the saddlebags to the mounting brackets, using the included bolts and nuts. Align the holes in the saddlebag with the holes in the mounting bracket and insert the bolts. Tighten the bolts with the ratchet set until the bolts are secure and the saddlebags are no longer able to shift. Repeat this step for the saddlebag on the other side.


5. Examine the installed saddle bags for straightness. The bags should sit across the back of the bike evenly to avoid creating an imbalance while riding the bike.


6. Take the bike for a short ride and then recheck the bags. Make sure the bolts are still tight and that the bags are secure.







Tags: mounting brackets, saddlebags installed, this step

Monday, June 17, 2013

Buy A Used Engine

Do your homework before buying a used engine.


Buying a new car every time you have major engine trouble can be very expensive, but sometimes the cost of repairing an engine is more than the car is worth. Another alternative, especially if your car is in otherwise sound mechanical condition, is buying a replacement engine. Buying your own engine can save you a lot of money, but only if you know what you are doing. Failure to understand important considerations when buying something as expensive and complicated as a used engine can be quite costly.


Instructions


1. Take your car to a trusted mechanic or call your car dealership to get complete details about your current engine, from year, make and model to the options included. You will need this information to make sure the new/used engine will fit. Make a list with your mechanic of questions to ask sellers to find the right size and type of replacement engine, as well as an accurate estimate of the installation costs.


2. Find out what is included with the engines you are thinking about buying. Some sellers will leave parts like alternators attached to the engine, which is good if you need one, but bad if you don't and have to pay a mechanic to take it off. Don't make assumptions about common attachments. Ask each seller for a detailed list.


3. Shop for a used engine at local salvage yards, in "Auto Trader" magazine and through online venues, such as the auto parts section of craigslist.org and even on eBay. Ask the salvage yards in your area to let you know if a used engine meeting your specifications becomes available. Take your time and explore as many options as possible before you buy. Make sure you fully understand the details of the shipping agreement if you buy a used engine online. Find out if you can have the engine delivered to your mechanic's shop to reduce shipping costs.


4. Ask the seller for the VIN number or find it on the engine block of the salvage engine you are examining. Run the VIN number through a car history tracking system like Carfax.com. Look for incidents that may have damaged the engine, such as flooding, fire, or serious accident, as well as discrepancies between the estimated mileage and the mileage given to you by the seller.







Tags: used engine, engine Buying, replacement engine, salvage yards, Take your, used engine

Replace The Brakes On A Harley Davidson Electra Glide

Replace the Brakes on a Harley Davidson Electra Glide


Regular inspection of brake components is considered part of routine maintenance on all makes and models of motorcycles. At a minimum, you should inspect your brake pads, front and rear, after every 2,500 miles. Brake pads on a Harley-Davidson Electra Glide have a minimum wear thickness of 0.04 inches. When the thickness of a friction pad falls below this width, replace both pads on the caliper.


Instructions


Rear Brakes


1. Unscrew the two top screws on the front brake master cylinder cover, located on the handle bars, using a cross-tip screwdriver


2. Loosen but do not remove the two pad pins on the outside of the front brake caliper assembly with a socket wrench.


3. Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts holding the front brake caliper to the forks with a hex-key wrench. Carefully take the front caliper off of the rotor and allow it to hang by the brake line.


4. Push on the brake caliper pistons so that they retract into the brake caliper. Remove both of the pad pins. Take off both inner and outer brake pads and discard them.


5. Install two new brake pads onto the caliper. Replace the caliper over the top of the rotor and screw in both mounting bolts.


6. Pump the brake lever several times to allow the brake pistons to come into contact with the new pads. Add D.O.T. 5 silicone brake fluid to the fill line on the front master cylinder. Replace the cover on the reservoir and tighten the screws.


Rear Brakes


7. Remove the right saddlebag by turning the two inner quick release studs a quarter turn counterclockwise by hand. Place the saddlebag in a safe place, away from the immediate work environment.


8. Take off the two screws from the top of the rear master cylinder reservoir with a cross-tip screwdriver.


9. Loosen the two pad pins on the rear brake caliper with a socket but do not remove them. Push the inside pad back with a putty knife to cause the piston to retract.


10. Pull the pad pins all of the way out. Allow the inside pad to drop free. Install a new inner pad into its place.


11. Re-insert the pad pins but do not fully tighten. Pump the rear brake several times to cause the caliper to move the pistons back out, allowing the inner pad to fully seat into the caliper.


12. Pry the outside pad back, pushing the pistons back once again into their bores.


13. Remove both pad pins to allow the rear pad to come free. Install a new outer pad in its place. Install both pad pins and tighten.


14. Pump the rear brake peddle several times to completely seat both pads and allow the pads to come into contact with the brake rotor.


15. Add D.O.T. 5 silicone brake fluid to the fill line in the rear brake master cylinder reservoir. Replace the master cylinder cover. Re-install the right-side saddlebag.







Tags: brake caliper, master cylinder, rear brake, both pins, brake pads, Electra Glide, front brake

Change Oil In A 1995 Harleydavidson Dyna Lowrider

Oil changes should be performed every 1,500 miles.


A fresh supply of motor oil is a key element in keeping a1995 Harley-Davidson Dyna Lowrider roadworthy. Oil changes should be performed regularly, preferably in 1,500-mile increments, to ensure that the motorcycle's oil is fresh and free of debris and other contaminants. The task is fairly simple but it can be slow the first few times you do it. Expect to spend at least 30 minutes changing the motor oil, but allow for more to allow you to take your time until you are comfortable with the procedure.


Instructions


1. Place a piece of wood on the floor and lower the motorcycle's kick stand onto it. This will allow the motorcycle to be positioned as vertically as possible. Start the motor and warm it up for three minutes. Stop the motor and turn off the ignition switch.


2. Unscrew the filler cap from the right side of the oil tank. Locate the oil drain hose on the bottom of the oil tank and follow it to the drain plug on the bottom-left side of the frame. Loosen the drain hose clamp with a flat screwdriver and pull the hose off the frame's drain plug. Drain the oil into a large container. Push the drain hose onto the frame's drain plug and tighten the hose clamp with a flat screwdriver.


3. Unscrew the round oil filter from the front of the motor with a filter wrench and discard it. Pour a small amount of 20W40 motor oil into the oil filter. Coat the oil filter's O-ring with a thin layer of oil. Screw the oil filter onto the motor's crankcase by hand until it is just touching the crankcase. Tighten the oil filter an additional half of a turn by hand to seal the oil filter.


4. Pour 2.5 qts. of 20W50 motor oil into the oil tank and screw the filler cap into place.


5. Start the motor and check for leaks at the oil drain hose and the oil filter. Tighten the drain hose's clamp or the oil filter if oil begins to seep out of either component. Stop the motor.


6. Unscrew the oil tank's filler cap. Wipe the filler cap's dipstick clean with a rag and reinsert the filler cap and dipstick completely into the oil tank. Remove the filler cap to check the oil tank's oil level. Add oil to raise the oil level until it reaches the upper mark on the dipstick. Screw the filler cap into place. Lift the motorcycle off its kick stand and remove the piece of wood. Lower the motorcycle onto the kick stand.







Tags: drain hose, drain plug, hose clamp, kick stand, changes should, changes should performed

Instructions For Mounting A Sidecar

Learn mount a sidecar on your motorcycle.


A sidecar is a small, pod-like seat that attaches to the side of a motorcycle for a passenger. The sidecar option can accommodate a variety of passengers, from a small child to a large adult who would otherwise be uncomfortable with being astride a motorcycle. You can mount a sidecar onto the frame of your motorcycle with a common hand tool and the parts included with your sidecar.


Instructions


1. Remove the packaging from around the sidecar and inspect it carefully for any small parts or pieces. Unbolt the sidecar assembly from the shipping pallet with a wrench.


2. Separate the body of the sidecar from the chassis frame underneath. Remove the bolts in the floor of the body that attach it to the frame.


3. Locate the mounting point on the front side of the motorcycle's frame just in front of the exhaust pipe. Take the bolts out of the mounting point and save them for later.


4. Use a wrench to attach the upper front mount on the sidecar's frame to the mounting point on the bike. Use the hardware in the sidecar mount to attach the frames together but do not tighten them all the way.


5. Remove the U-strap from the mount on the front of the frame below the front upper mount. Slide the strap around the rail along the bottom of the frame and push it toward the front of the bike until it meets the fixed mounts on the bike's frame.


6. Reconnect the U-strap to the sidecar's frame with the bolts you removed earlier. Move along the bike's frame until you reach the rear where the sidecar and bike come together.


7. Attach the lower mount on the rear of the frame to the motorcycle frame using the bolts you removed from the front, upper mounting point on the bike.


8. Release the bolts holding the crash bars onto the motorcycle's frame and slide the sidecar's frame in between the bars and the bike's frame. Secure the upper rear mount and the bars back onto the bike's frame with the removed bolts.


9. Tighten all of the sidecar's frame connections then attach the mounting arms to the frame. Make sure the arms are pointing out away from the bike and parallel to the ground.


10. Mount the sidecar chassis onto the frame and secure the parts together. Align the arms and chassis before tightening all of the hardware in place.







Tags: bike frame, mounting point, sidecar frame, motorcycle frame, mount sidecar, bolts removed

Friday, June 14, 2013

Change The Transmission Oil On A Harley Davidson Evolution Engine

The transmission system on the Harley-Davidson Evolution engine is located on the engine block, beneath the engine cover. Changing the transmission oil is a part of regularly scheduled maintenance that occurs every 50,000 to 60,000 miles or three years, depending on whichever comes first. Fresh transmission oil prevents the gears from grinding and the engine from overheating. Neglecting this maintenance can lead to costly engine damage. Fortunately, changing the transmission oil requires only a few tools and about an hour of your time.


Instructions


1. Park the bike on a level surface and place it in a bike stand so it remains upright. If you don't have a bike stand, have another person hold the bike upright while you change the transmission oil.


2. Remove the 10 screws that hold the engine cover in place, using the Phillips screwdriver. Place the cover and the screws in a safe location.


3. Locate the transmission on the right side of the engine. Place a collection pan beneath the drain bolt to catch the transmission oil as it comes out. Remove the drain bolt with the 18-mm socket wrench. Replace the drain bolt when the draining is complete.


4. Remove the transmission dipstick from the top of the transmission. Put a funnel in the dipstick tube. Pour in 1.5 quarts of transmission oil. Remove the funnel and reinsert the dipstick in the tube.


5. Reattach the engine cover.

Tags: drain bolt, engine cover, bike stand, dipstick tube, transmission Remove

S&S 563 Cam Shaft Specs

A cam shaft controls the timing of the opening and closing of the the engine valves.


On a modern combustion engine, the camshaft is what allows the valves to open and close during the combustion process. During the combustion process, the timing of the opening and closing of the valves directly affects the power output of the vehicle. Installation of a performance camshaft with performance cams can increase the horsepower of the engine.


Valve Lift


Valve lift refers specifically to the distance the valve is lifted of the valve seat. The distance is measured in inches. Two valves are controlled by the camshaft: the intake valve and the exhaust valve. The intake valves open to allow the air and fuel mixture into the cylinders. The exhaust valve allows the combusted gasses to be expelled from the engine. Opening the valves more quickly and for a longer duration typically will yield more power in the engine. The S&S 563 camshaft has a valve lift of 0.560 inches.


Duration


Duration is a measurement of the angles on the camshaft the valve remains lifted from a specific measure from the valve seat. The specific measure is in inches. For example, a measurement might be duration at .050, or 180 degrees. This duration measurement indicates the point at which the angle is measured is 0.05 inches from the point at which the valve is lifted 0.05 inches from the seat until the point it it returns to 0.05 inches from the seat. In this case, it is 180 degrees, or a half turn of the camshaft. The S&S camshaft duration is measured with the specification duration at 0.053, or 276 degrees.


Open and Close


The camshaft open and close measurements indicate the point at which the valve is opened and closed during the rotation of the camshaft. The measurement is expressed in angles, indicating the angle from center line the camshaft has rotated when the valve opens. The center line is the point at which the lobe of the camshaft is highest. The S&S camshaft open and close measurements for the intake are 32 degrees and 60 degrees, respectively. The S&S camshaft open and close measurements for the exhaust are 64 degrees and 32 degrees, respectively.







Tags: point which, camshaft open, camshaft open close, close measurements, inches from, open close measurements, camshaft valve

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Adjust A Honda Cb360t'S Valves

Checking and adjusting your Honda CB360T's valves is a critical yet often forgotten step in maintaining the motorcycle. Honda recommends that a valve inspection, accompanied by adjustment, be performed every 3,000 miles to ensure that the motor's intake and exhaust valves are opening and closing properly. If the clearance between the valves and their tappets is not within a specific range, your CB360's performance will begin to suffer. If the clearance is too far out of adjustment, significant damage can take place within the motor.


Instructions


1. Park your CB360T on its center stand and let it cool for at least 12 hours.


2. Unlock the seat and lift the seat up. Pull the rubber boot off the tang at the base of the gas tank. Lift the base of the tank up slightly and prop it into place with a piece of wood to provide better access to the motor's cylinder head.


3. Place a shop rag over the left exhaust pipe and the lower frame rail. Unscrew all three bolts from the round generator cover on the left side of the motor with a Phillips screwdriver. Place a 14mm box wrench over the bolt at the center of the generator flywheel.


4. Unscrew the tappet covers from the front and rear of the motor's cylinder head with a 17mm wrench.


5. Turn the generator flywheel counterclockwise with your 14mm box wrench and observe the movement of your CB360T's left intake tappet, positioned above the left carburetor. Rotate the flywheel until the tappet lowers and raises completely again. Continue to rotate the flywheel until the LT mark imprinted on the flywheel's face is aligned with the timing notch cut into the top of the generator's stator.


6. Measure the distance between the tip of the left intake tappet adjustment screw and the intake valve stem with a 0.002-inch feeler gauge. Ideally, the feeler gauge should slide between the adjustment screw and the valve stem with a small amount of resistance or drag. If no resistance is felt or if the gauge cannot be inserted at all, the intake valve is out of specification.


7. Adjust the intake valve's clearance with a 10mm box wrench and a flat screwdriver. Place your flat screwdriver into the slot on the intake tappet's adjuster screw head and loosen the screw's lock nut with your 10mm wrench. Slide your 0.002-inch feeler gauge between the tappet's screw and the valve stem. Loosen the adjustment screw with your screwdriver to increase the clearance, or tighten the screw to decrease the clearance. Hold the adjustment screw in place with your flat screwdriver and tighten the screw's lock nut with the 10mm wrench once a slight resistance is felt when inserting or removing the feeler gauge.


8. Check and adjust the left exhaust valve's clearance, located above the left exhaust pipe on the front of the motor, using the method described in the previous steps. Use a 0.003-inch feeler gauge to measure the exhaust valve's clearance.


9. Rotate the generator flywheel counterclockwise a full 180 degrees and align the flywheel's T mark with the timing notch cut into the stator. Check and adjust the right intake and exhaust valves' clearance following the method described earlier.


10. Screw the tappet covers into place on the top of the motor's cylinder head with the 17mm wrench. Mount the generator cover onto the left side of the motor and screw the mounting bolts into place with the Phillips screwdriver.







Tags: feeler gauge, adjustment screw, with your, 10mm wrench, cylinder head, flat screwdriver

Write A Press Conference Story

A press conference almost always begins with a prepared statement before questions are taken 'from the floor.'


You don't have to be a reporter or writer in a major metropolitan city like Chicago to experience an exhilarating news conference. Even officials from small towns and medium-size companies who call press conferences are known to create sensations "simply" by stepping behind a podium. People call press conferences because they think they have something important to say. This may be true, but keep an open mind to the possibilities. After all, press conferences are designed to afford two-way communication, so the story you have been "called" to write may be very different from the one you submit and the one that is eventually disseminated to your audience.


Instructions


1. Do your due diligence before the press conference. Talk to people in the know to find out, even off the record, what will be announced at the press conference so you can do your homework, fill in pertinent facts and ask intelligent follow-up questions at the press conference. The better prepared you are, the better your story will likely be.


2. Prepare questions beforehand in anticipation of a question and answer session, which usually follows the prepared statement at a news conference. These questions may or may not be germane to the purpose of the press conference. As most questions are considered fair game at press conferences, you may end up writing a story very different from the one you intended, especially if your observation skills are in high gear.


3. The information at the very top of your pyramid should be the most newsworthy.


Organize your material from the press conference in a logical, coherent fashion. Decide which is the most important piece of news to come from the press conference; do not organize your notes in the chronological order in which they were addressed. In doing so, you are structuring your story based on the inverted pyramid -- a journalistic writing style that places information in descending order of importance.


4. Write a descriptive, insightful introduction to your story. In journalism, this introduction can be as many as three paragraphs. It is known as the "lead" because it literally leads the story. It should answer the six key journalistic questions, known as the "5 W's and 1 H": who, what, where, when, why and how (though not necessarily in this order): "Quelling months of rumors to the contrary, Naperville Mayor Joseph Cunningham announced his bid for re-election on the steps of City Hall on Tuesday, saying that he is 'deeply committed' to bringing harmony to strained relations between the city's police and fire departments."


5. Develop the main idea in greater detail, providing (in this case) pertinent information about the current state of affairs in the police and fire departments and the mayor's record in office. Begin thinking about other people to interview for their response to this announcement. In this case, a "reaction quote" from the police and fire chiefs would be wholly appropriate, if not expected.


6. Quote people carefully and in context, for your credibility depends on this ability. Let's say, for example, that you ask, "Don't you think it's time that the city devised a system to deter cops and firefighters from padding their overtime hours?" If the mayor replies, "Maybe," it would be inaccurate to quote him as saying, "It's time that the city devised a system to deter cops and firefighters from padding their overtime hours." The mayor did not say this; you did. His direct quote was simply, "Maybe." Though wordier, you must write: "When asked if it might be time for the city to devise a system so that police and fire personnel would not pad their overtime hours, the mayor replied, 'Maybe.'"


7. Pay attention to -- and ask questions about -- verbal and nonverbal cues, such as a note of sarcasm, inflections and a raised eyebrow or a dismissive shake of the head.


Consider using bullet points to communicate other news from the press conference. You might write, for example: "After addressing the challenges of his re-election bid, Cunningham shed some light on a number of vexing city issues, including:"







Tags: press conference, police fire, press conferences, from press, from press conference, hours mayor, overtime hours

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Odometer Hours Vs Miles

An odometer can't tell a car shopper how many hours the engine has been running.


Odometers, either mechanical or electronic, keep track of the amount of miles a car travels. But a car's odometer cannot tell how many hours the engine has run. The two are completely different indicators, depending on how the vehicle was used.


Odometers


Each time a wheel rotates it moves part of a mile.


According to 2CarPros.com, odometers have been in existence since 27 B.C., when a Roman writer and architect used a chariot wheel to measure distance. Odometers work by measuring the wheel rotations on a vehicle and, depending on the size of the wheel, converting the amount of rotations to distance traveled. When enough rotations are added together, the car has traveled a mile and the odometer records that.


Engine Hours


Engine hours are calculated by how much time the engine has been running.


A vehicle's engine hours are calculated not by miles, but by time. A vehicle that travels 60 miles can travel that distance in any amount of time. If the vehicle is traveling an average of 30 miles per hour, it will run the engine two hours to cover the distance. If the car is traveling at 60 mph, the car will cover the distance in just an hour.


What That Means


Running an engine long or running an engine hard have adverse effects on the mechanics.


Cars or trucks that sit in traffic, in idle, or at low speeds for long periods of time, will undergo more mechanical wear due to sheer hours of operation. The same holds true for engines that take a lot of highway driving, averaging speeds of 75 miles an hour. The engine works longer in the first scenario and harder in the second. Both affect the mechanicals of the engine.


Hours vs. Miles


A car with an odometer reading of 60,000 miles can have an engine that has experienced a wide variety of usage hours. One vehicle could have really low engine hours but has worked really hard to accrue those miles, moving during most trips at 75 mph. Another vehicle can sit in idle a lot, racking up high engine hours while covering the same distance. A third car, with a good balance of highway and city driving, will experience engine hours somewhere in the middle.







Tags: engine hours, been running, cover distance, engine been, engine been running, hours calculated

Remove Pictures From An Iphone

It's easy to remove photos from your iPhone.


In addition to the calling features, an iPhone enables you to take pictures or upload them from your computer. However, if you have too many pictures and are running out of memory space, you can remove unwanted photos.


Instructions


Using iPhone


1. Turn on your iPhone and tap the "Photos" icon. Tap "Camera Roll." You should see a list of the pictures that you have taken with your iPhone camera.


2. Tap the photo that you want to delete and tap the trash bin icon on the lower right corner.


3. Tap "Delete photo" to remove the photo from your iPhone.


Using iTunes


4. Connect your iPhone to the computer using the USB cable that comes with your device and launch iTunes. iTunes displays your iPhone on the left panel under "Devices."


5. Click your iPhone and click the "Photos" tab. Uncheck the "Sync photos from" check-box and click "Remove Photos."


6. Click "Apply" to remove the photos. Right-click your iPhone when you finish, and click "Eject." Disconnect your iPhone from the computer.







Tags: your iPhone, from your, from your iPhone, photos from, remove photos, with your

Specs On A 100th Anniversary Harley Dyna Wide Glide

The 2003 Harley-Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide commemorates the 100th anniversary of Harley's 1903 founding. The custom cruiser class street bike represents classic Harley-Davidson chopper-style design and styling.


Engine


The 2003 Dyna Wide Glide features a powdercoated black and chrome Twin Cam 88 V-twin 1449-cc engine. The four-stroke motor has a bore and stroke of 3.8 inches by 4 inches with a compression ratio of 8.8:1. It produces 85 foot-lbs. of torque at 3,000 rpm.


Chassis


This motorcycle has a steel rectangular section backbone frame with twin down tubes. It uses a five-speed gearbox with a wet, multi-plate clutch. The front chrome forks have triple clamps with 5.6 inches of travel, and the chrome rear coil-over shocks are preload adjustable with 4.3 inches of travel. The disc brakes feature dual-piston calipers.


Dimensions


The 2003 Dyna Wide Glide is 94.5 inches long with a 66.1 inch wheelbase and 5.4 inches of ground clearance. The seat height is 27.8 inches. The bike weighs 639 lbs. dry, and its rake is 32 degrees with 5.1 inches of trail.







Tags: Dyna Wide, Dyna Wide Glide, Wide Glide, with inches, 2003 Dyna

Monday, June 10, 2013

Harley Davidson Rocker Specs

The Harley-Davidson Rocker C is a cruiser-style bike in Harley's softtail line. The 2011 model includes new features such as a security package, trip odometer, single-button hazard warning and antilock break system. The bike's front has more chrome finishing and totalmotorcycle.com describe it as providing "a modern, comfortable ride."


Engine and Transmission


The Rocker has a 96-cubic inch, air-cooled twin cam engine. The stroke is 3.75-inches while the bore is 4.38-inches for a compression ratio of 9.2:1. The final drive system is a chain type. This engine gets 35 mpg in the city and 54 mpg on the highway while providing 92.2 feet-pounds of torque when running at 3,000 rpm.


Measurements


The Rocker is 95-inches long with a seat height of 25.2-inches laden and 27.4-inches unladen. The bike has a ground clearance of 5.1-inches. In the front, the bike has a 36-degree rake on the steering wheel with a 6.2-inch trail. The overall wheelbase stands at 69.2-inches.


Weight and Capacity


The bike weighs 686.3-pounds dry and 717-pounds fully loaded with oil and gas. The gas tank holds 4.9 gallons while the oil tank holds 3.5-quarts. The Rocker does not come with any place for to store luggage.


Instruments


The 2011 HD Rocker has the instruments mounted on the gas tank. These instruments include a speedometer, odometer, trip odometer, clock, engine diagnostic lights, low-fuel indicator, fuel gauge and light indicating which of the bike's six speeds you are currently using.


Wheels and Brakes


Both front and back wheels come with polished, five-spoke aluminum wheels. The front wheel takes a 90/90-19 tire with the back wheel taking a 240/40R18 tire. The front wheel has four piston brakes with the back wheel having two.







Tags: back wheel, come with, front wheel, tank holds, trip odometer, with back, with back wheel

Adjust Harley Shocks

Adjust Harley Shocks


Harley-Davidson motorcycles use three different types of shocks. Touring models use air shocks to deliver a smooth ride that is easily adjustable for changing passenger and cargo weight. FX and XL models use the traditional spring-over shocks that are adjusted with an external spring preload ring. Softail models use shocks with internal springs, and the ride is adjusted by changing the preload with an external adjuster. The shocks should be set soft enough to deliver a smooth ride yet stiff enough that the rear wheel does not bottom out in the fender.


Instructions


Air Shocks


1. Raise the bike with the lift so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Remove the saddlebags from their supports on the frame. Locate the shock air valve on the left side of the bike near the fender and remove the cap.


2. Install the no-loss air pump onto the shock valve stem. Record the pressure that registers on the gauge.


3. Adjust the pressure until it is between 10 and 35 pounds. Operate the pump to increase the pressure or bleed off pressure with the release valve located on the pump.


4. Remove the pump and replace the air valve cap. Reinstall the saddlebags.


External Spring Shocks


5. Raise the bike with the bike lift so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Remove the saddlebags.


6. Engage the spanner wrench with the notches in the spring adjuster ring at the bottom of the shock. Turn the ring clockwise to soften the ride and counterclockwise to stiffen it. Adjust each side evenly to maintain balanced support at the rear end.


7. Reinstall the saddlebags.


Softail Shock Adjustment


8. Raise the bike with the bike lift so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Locate the shock adjuster plate on the rear end of the shocks.


9. Turn the adjuster lock nut counterclockwise two or three turns with a wrench. Engage the spanner wrench with the notches in the adjuster plate. Turn the plate, in full turn increments, clockwise to soften the ride and counterclockwise to stiffen it.


10. Tighten the lock nuts firmly onto the adjuster plate.







Tags: rear wheel, that rear, that rear wheel, adjuster plate, bike with, lift that

Friday, June 7, 2013

Time A Harleydavidson Motorcycle

Learn set the timing on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle.


Checking the timing on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle every 5,000 miles plays an important role in a comprehensive maintenance routine. As a Harley-Davidson engine ages, you must adjust the ignition timing to compensate for the wear of internal engine parts. Setting the timing correctly keeps your motorcycle running smoothly and efficiently. Maladjusted timing may result in sluggish performance, poor fuel economy and possible damage to internal engine components. Setting the timing is relatively easy and ensures the maximum life from the engine.


Instructions


1. Remove the crankcase timing plug using an Allen wrench, and expose the timing hole. The timing hole is located on the primary chain case side of the motor on the engine block and capped with a solid hex-head plug. Install a clear plastic timing hole plug to prevent oil splash.


2. Connect the positive terminal of an inductive timing light to the positive battery terminal of the motorcycle. Connect the negative terminal of the timing light to the negative terminal of the battery. Connect the inductive pickup probe of the timing light to the front cylinder spark plug wire.


3. Start the engine, and run it at idle. Point the timing light into the timing inspection hole. If the ignition is properly timed, the timing bar will align with the circular timing reference mark. The reference marks on a correctly timed engine will appear as a vertical bar through the center of the circle. Some models only have a timing reference mark on the flywheel of the motor; on these models, the engine is correctly timed when the reference mark is visible in the timing inspection hole.


4. Remove the timing cover from the right side of the motor with a Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench, depending on your specific model. Loosen the the timing plate screws with a slotted screwdriver, and turn the timing plate to adjust the timing. Recheck the timing marks with the timing light. Tighten the timing plate screws, and install the cover.


5. Shut off the engine, and remove the timing light. Remove the clear plastic timing hole plug, and install the solid plug in the hole.

Tags: timing light, timing hole, reference mark, timing plate, Allen wrench, clear plastic

Care For Harley Boots

Authentic Harley boots have a waterproofing shield and are made from genuine leather. Some Harley boots lace up, some have buckles and some have zippers. Choices of styles include the Faded Glory, Hustin and Dipstick. A well-fitting pair of boots is essential for maintaining proper motorcycle riding safety; after all, they are not just a fashion statement. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


1. Polish your leather boots. Harley-Davidson.com not only has boots for sale, but cleaning accessories such as polish as well (see Resources). Use black creme polish for best results in maintaining the original color.


2. Shelter your boots from weather such as snow and rain when not out in the elements. Dry them up in natural outdoor air after they've gotten wet. Don't use too much heat, such as a dryer, as this is can dry out the leather. Make sure it's not going to rain if you put them outside.


3. Waterproof your boots with a mild detergent and let them stand dry. Once you remove the factory waterproofing, the new weatherproofing repellent will stick to your boots effectively. Use beeswax or lanolin to fill up the porous leather. This will prevent water from harming the integrity of the leather fiber. Reapply water repellent or wax weekly if you're using your boots consistently.







Tags: your boots, after they, Harley boots, some have

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Specs For A Harley Sissy Bar

Harley Davidson offers a variety of sissy bars with options in color, size and height. Some work with backrests and luggage racks, and others are made to use by themselves.


Round Bar Sissy Bar Upright


This model works with a variety of backrests and luggage racks, and comes in gloss-black (model 52300024) or chrome (model 52300022). It will fit 2004 and later XL models that have detachable sideplates; 2006 and later Dyna models, except FXDFSE/2, FXDF and FXDWG after 2010; 1984 through 2005 Softails except FXSTD; 2006 and later FL Softail models except 2006 FLSTFSE2 and 2007 and later FLSTF, FLSTFB, FLSTSE and FLSTSB.


One-Piece Detachable Upright


This sissy bar comes in short, gloss-black (model 52828-11) and standard-height, gloss-black (model 52760-11), and fits any backrest. It has a slotted base and cam-lock detachable hardware to enable quick installation. It fits 2011 FXS models, but the more complete docking hardware, P/N 53932-03A, and a turn signal relocation kit, P/N 54296-11, must be installed before use.


One-Piece Detachable Passenger Upright


This model comes in chrome (model 52300042) and gloss-black finish (model 51146-10). It can be paired with the passenger backrest pad P/N 52631-0 and fits 2010 and later FXDWG and FXDF models. A separate purchase of docking hardware is required for installation.







Tags: gloss-black model, Upright This, 2006 later, backrests luggage, backrests luggage racks

Repair An External Hard Drive

As with any piece of electronic equipment, plenty of things can go wrong with an external hard drive. There are two types of problems: hardware and software. Hardware problems are physical flaws that prevent the discs from spinning and accessing data. Software problems are digital mixups that make retrieving data more difficult.


Instructions


1. Figure out whether you need a hardware or software fix. Look for grinding sounds from your drive or humming that starts or stops. These are signs that the actuator arm and discs are no longer in alignment and your drive is timing out. If it seems as though nothing is wrong with your hard drive, it's probably time for a software fix.


2. Run one of the many software fixes, if you think the problem is related to software. These programs feature on-screen directions, making it easy for you to progress through them. If this works, you don't need to fix a physical problem.


3. Remove the many tiny screws that holds the drive together. Eventually, you'll get to the innards of your drive. Be very careful not to bend or force a piece to go where it doesn't want to.


4. Determine if you've set things straight. Look to see whether anything was loose inside your external hard drive. If you have recently dropped it or traveled with it, it is possible that something came loose. Also check that all the arms and platters are straight and do not appear bent in any way. If they are bent, straighten them with your hands or pliers.


5. Put everything back together and check that everything in your external hard drive is working properly.


6. Try using the external hard drive on another computer. Maybe your computer or USB port is the problem and needs replaced.







Tags: external hard drive, hard drive, external hard, your drive, check that, hardware software, with your