Checking and maintaining the proper level of fluids in your Harley-Davidson is important. In addition to the engine and transmission, the primary case requires fluid to lubricate the primary chain and clutch plates.
Inspection Cover
You check your primary fluid level through the inspection cover, which is the oval cover in the middle of the primary cover. You'll need a T25 Torx wrench to remove the bolts. Have a new inspection cover gasket in case you need it.
Adding Fluid
Add the fluid through the inspection cover. You can use any kind of oil -- petroleum or synthetic -- as long as it does not contain friction modifiers.
Closing the Inspection Cover
Replace the gasket on the inspection cover if needed. Tighten bolts finger tight; then tighten the bolts at 10 foot-pounds. Start with the top bolt and then tighten the bottom bolt. The third bolt is the right one, and the left bolt is last.
Tags: inspection cover, then tighten, through inspection, through inspection cover
Engines operate best when filled with factory-recommended oil weights.
Engines operate by filling a small chamber with fuel, then igniting the fuel, which forces pistons down and turns a crank. The process requires ample lubrication and coolant to ensure the metal parts of the engine do not warp, bend, or break. Engines use purified oil to lubricate the moving parts and specialized coolant to draw heat off of the engine. Operating an engine without one or the other will damage it. If a need arises to operate an engine without oil, take great caution in doing so.
Instructions
Run the Vehicle
1. Drain out the oil and leave the plug out.
2. Pour a heavy weight oil into the engine compartment, letting it run out. The weight of the oil will adhere to the moving parts within the engine. As long as you pour oil into the engine prior to starting, it will help to maintain lubrication. You should use at least a 40 weight oil.
3. Start the vehicle. Allow it to run for only a short period of time before turning off the engine. Anything longer than one minute can cause irreparable damage to the engine.
Tags: engine without, Engines operate, into engine, moving parts
Change the oil in your Harley-Davidson motorcycle approximately every 2,500 miles.
Changing the oil in your Harley-Davidson motorcycle is essential to keeping the engine running smoothly. Check the oil in your engine every time you ride your Harley. Most dealers and independent mechanics can charge as much as $100 to change the oil, but it costs less than $20 to do it at home. These instructions are for a Harley-Davidson Sportster, but they correspond to most modern Harley models.
Instructions
1. Remove the oil cap and center the used oil container underneath the filter. Turn the oil filter counterclockwise using the wrench until it's loose enough to turn by hand. Gently remove the filter, angling it up as you pull it off so the oil doesn't spill.
2. Tilt the filter down and drain the oil into the container, leaving the filter open-side down in the container. Allow all the oil to drain out, wiping the excess off the engine case and the oil-sending unit with a clean rag.
3. Find the oil drain hose, usually behind the clutch and under the swingarm. Move the used oil container under the hose. Unscrew the clamp on the hose counterclockwise. Pull off the hose, angling it down toward the container to drain the oil inside it. Replace the hose and tighten the clamp clockwise.
4. Wipe any excess oil off the oil pump. Inspect the new filter for damage. Using one finger, rub a small amount of new oil around the filter's rubber gasket. Pour about four ounces of oil into the filter and hand-tighten it on the oil pump.
5. Fill the oil tank with oil, just to the bottom of the tank opening, about three quarts (less the earlier four ounces). Replace the oil filler cap.
6. Loosen the oil drain hose again and let a little bit of the new oil drain out to eliminate any air bubbles in the system. Tighten the hose clamp.
7. Start your engine. If your oil check light had been on, make sure it's off. Check around the oil filter and drain hose for leaks.
Tags: drain hose, your Harley-Davidson motorcycle, around filter, four ounces, Harley-Davidson motorcycle, used container, your engine
An important part of maintaining your motorcycle is to frequently change the oil. Complete this process every 3,000 miles and enjoy greater security during your rides and prolong the life of your engine.
Instructions
1. Remove the filler cap from the oil tank.
2. Place the catch basin directly below the drain plug on the oil tank.
3. Hold a siphon between the oil tank and the catch basin. Some newer Harley models may have their own drain hose that you can use.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil tank, while continuing to hold the siphon in place.
5. Wait until all oil has drained into the basin, then screw the drain plug back into the oil tank.
6. Remove the seat of your motorcycle. Most Harley-Davidsons' oil filters are located in a cylinder under the seat.
7. Take the lid off the cylinder's housing and remove the cylinder.
8. Unlatch the clip that secures the cap on the cylinder using needle-nose pliers and lift out the used oil filter.
9. Replace the old filter with a new filter before locking the cap back onto the cylinder. Put the cylinder back into its home and replace the lid.
10. Bolt the seat securely back onto the Harley.
11. Pour the new oil into your oil tank. Your service manual should designate the proper amount for your specific motorcycle model.
12. Put the filler cap back onto the oil tank. Fasten it firmly to avoid a spray of oil.
Tags: back onto, drain plug, back into, catch basin, your motorcycle
For many people, assessing the value of a used bicycle can be an intimidating project. Most people assume it will be a simple task, until they begin to do the research and stumble upon the numerous variables and components that are significant when assigning a price to a second-hand bike. Before you begin, be sure the bicycle in question is ready to ride with no fatal flaws, then follow the steps in the guide below and with a few minor calculations you will have your price.
Instructions
1. Factor in the age of the bike. For an older bike in good condition you can expect to get approximately 35 to 40 percent of the initial sales price. For a newer bike, the asking price is generally anywhere from 40 to 55 percent of the original ticket.
2. Research the cost of the bike when it was new and compare it to the cost of similar models currently available on the market. If, five years ago, the bike cost $600 new, but today a similar model sells for $900, the bike will command a price that is slightly higher than half. As with all things, certain bike styles and features rise and fall in popularity.
3. Consider the condition the bike is in, paying particular attention to the frame and the drive train components (the brakes, the shifter, the chain, the rear cassette and the levers) as these are the most expensive parts to repair or replace. If you're not sure where these parts are located on the specific model in question or if it has them, different models have different parts, reference a basic bicycle repair guide or search for a model specific diagram (see Resources).
4. Include the quality of the components in the overall pricing scheme. A frame made from aluminum won't fetch as much money as one made from steel or titanium. Also, if there are significant improvements to things such as the brakes, the gears, the seat or the tires, a higher price tag is completely justified.
5. Estimate the cost of any repairs that may need to be done. Brake pad and cable replacements are minor repairs and should not have a great impact on the overall price. On the other hand, a damaged wheel costs more and this should be factored in to the final figure.
You can perform many needed maintenance tasks on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle with a bit of know-how and a good do-it-yourself attitude. Keeping fresh oil, serviceable tires and good brakes can help keep you safe, prevent accidents and need not break the bank in cost. Obtaining the correct tools, preparing for the job and having a good working knowledge of the components on your bike will go a long way to ensure the success of your project. Brake kits available from your local Harley dealer typically contain everything you need to replace your brake pads except tools.
Instructions
Remove Old Brake Pads
1. Unscrew the upper and lower bolts mounting the brake caliper to the hydraulic forks.
2. Take out the retainer screw from the inner pad and its retainer. Push the outer pad free from its mounting plate and spring clip. Discard old pads.
3. Clean all metal and rubber parts using denatured alcohol. Alternatively, brake fluid may be used in cleaning rubber parts only.
Install New Brake Pads
4. Insert the spring clip onto the top of the mounting plate. Place the outer brake pad into the mounting plate and push down so that it is held in place by the spring clip.
5. Install the mounting plate with the new brake pad into place on the caliper.
6. Place the new inner brake pad into the recessed area of the caliper and attach it in place using the pad retainer and screw.
7. Coat the lower mounting pin with Dow Corning MOLY 44 grease. Thread and tighten the bolt using torque specifications supplied in the brake kit. Install and torque the upper mounting bolt.
Tags: Brake Pads, mounting plate, brake into, spring clip, retainer screw, rubber parts
The Street Rod is a rare Harley, with its liquid-cooled engine.
When Harley-Davidson introduced the V-Rod family in 2001 for the 2002 model year, it signaled a new direction for the company. According to Harley-Davidson, the VRSCA V-Rod was "Harley-Davidson's first motorcycle to combine fuel injection, overhead cams and liquid cooling." In 2005, Harley-Davidson released the 2006 VRSCR Street Rod. The American Motorcyclist Association called the Street Rod, "a very un-Harley-like Harley."
Engine
The V-Rod and the Street Rod share the same engine, called the Revolution, which was designed in partnership with Porsche. The Revolution was an 1130 cc liquid-cooled, fuel-injected DOHC with a 60-degree V-twin cylinder engine having four valves per cylinder.
Bore and stroke were 100 mm by 72 mm and the compression ratio was 11.3-to-1. According to "Motorcycle Cruiser" magazine, the Street Rod produced more horsepower than the V-Rod, "Not from any internal engine tweaks but from the Street Rod's exhaust, which is less restrictive." The Street Rod produced 120 horsepower at 8,250 rpm with a maximum torque of 80 foot-pounds at 7,000 rpm.
Transmission
The Street Rod had a five-speed (one down, four up) transmission. A belt final drive system transferred power from the engine to the rear wheel. According to "Motorcycle Cruiser" magazine, the wet, multi-plate clutch "requires the stiff pull typical of Harleys ... the gearbox is even smoother and lighter than the already good units in recent V-Rods."
Brakes and Suspension
Harley-Davidson used Brembo brand brakes on the Street Rod, two 300 mm discs with four-caliper pistons in front and a single 300 mm disc with a four-caliper piston in the rear. The 43 mm inverted front fork, two rear shock absorbers and twin side swing arm provided the suspension. The front fork and shocks were adjustable.
Body
The Street Rod was built around a steel frame. The handlebars on the Street Rod were adjustable and foot controls were mid mounted. The fuel tank was mounted under the flip-up seat, which makes it different from all other Harleys. Instrumentation on the cruiser included speedometer, odometer, tachometer, two tripmeters and a clock. There were indicator lights for turn signals, low fuel, low oil pressure, coolant temperature, high beam and neutral.
Dimensions and Colors
The 2006 Street Rod was 93.7 inches long with a wheelbase of 66.8 inches, which was .7 inches shorter than the wheelbase on the V-Rod. Ground clearance was 6.7 inches and seat height was 31 inches. The Street Rod had a dry weight of 618 pounds, weighing in at 655 pounds with all necessary fluids and a full tank of gas. The fuel capacity was five gallons. Harley-Davidson offered the 2006 Street Rod in vivid black, black cherry pearl, rich sunglo blue, yellow pearl, brandy wine sunglo and mirage orange pearl.
Tags: 2006 Street, According Motorcycle, According Motorcycle Cruiser, Cruiser magazine, front fork, Motorcycle Cruiser
You can remove the grille from the front of your 2003 Ford F150 at home using a few simple tools that can be purchased from any hardware store. You may have to remove a grille because of accident damage or you may wish to replace it with an after-market grille. In either case, it's an easy job requiring only a few minutes of your time. Besides being visually pleasing, the grille's purpose is to protect the radiator.
Instructions
1. Pop up the hood and find the bolts that attach the upper radiator fan cover to the upper part of the grille. Use a socket and ratchet to remove these bolts.
2. Remove the cover from the upper grille using your hands.
3. Find the two plastic tabs attaching the driver's side of the grille to the fender in front. Push the tabs in toward the fender and pull on the grille from the front of the vehicle to dislocate it from the fender. Do the same thing on the passenger side of the grille.
Tags: grille from, 2003 Ford, 2003 Ford F150, Ford F150, from front, grille from front
If your Harley is not running the way it should, it might be time to rebuild the carburetor. S & S is a popular carburetor for a Harley V-twin engine. The fuel to run the Harley runs through the carburetor, mixing with the right amount of air, leaving sediment and particles behind gumming up the inner works of the carburetor. Once the particles are in the carburetor, the bike will not perform as it should. It will run sluggish and possibly not even start. A rebuild kit for the carburetor can be purchased at most motorcycle part supply stores. The process of rebuilding a carburetor is not too difficult.
Instructions
1. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the carburetor. Remove the carburetor from the intake manifold. Check the plugs that are located in the body of the carburetor for signs of leaking. If signs show that they are leaking, replace the plugs.
2. Remove the idle mixture screw. Count the turns it takes to remove the screw, make a note of how many turns it took. Check the throttle plate for wear. There should be no light showing when the carburetor is closed. Replace if necessary.
3. Clean the idle mixture screw and mark it with a marker just to the tapered part. Replace the screw by screwing it completely into the carburetor. Remove the screw and check to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off. If it has, use the new idle mixture screw from the kit and discard the old one.
4. Remove the enrichment plunger nut and spring from the carburetor. Check the tip of the plunger for wear.
5. Take the screws out of the bowl of the carburetor. Do not remove the cap.
6. Remove the float pin screw. Locate and remove the float pin, float and needle. Replace if warn with new parts in the rebuild kit.
7. Take the seat from the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Install the new seat that is in the rebuild kit.
8. Check the ejector nozzle for kinks or wear. Install the new nozzle O-ring.
9. Clean and check the float for holes. Install a new needle. Place the entire unit back into the bowl. Move all the parts to be sure they move easily.
10. Turn the bowl over and take out the screws that held the cap in place. Take the balls and O-rings out of the casting.
11. Replace the ball checks, seats, spring and diaphragm with the new ones supplied in the rebuild kit.
12. Replace the pump shaft and boot. Install the new bowl gasket and secure with the provided screws.
13. Reinstall the cables before bolting the carburetor back onto the intake manifold.
14. Position the carburetor with the backing plate and breather assembly and bolt back together.
15. Replace the idle screw, turning the same number of turns it took to take it out. Start the bike and check the cables. Adjust the idle screw if necessary for the proper idle. Take her for a test ride to ensure all is running smooth.
The firmness of a car's suspension greatly affects its ride quality. Though a suspension system is made up of many different components, a few key parts, such as the shocks and springs, have the greatest impact on ride quality. Other parts that affect the ride as well include the bushings that isolate the various connection points of the suspension and the sway bars.
Instructions
1. Install softer shocks and struts. As the primary component that affects your vehicle's ride quality, shocks and struts have a very big impact. If your vehicle has a very stiff suspension, it may be because it has heavier duty performance shocks that are designed to make the car handle better rather than provide a soft ride. BMWs, for instance, can use a variety of Bilstein shocks, including Sport and Touring models. The Sport shocks are much stiffer than the Touring shocks, which are designed for maximum highway comfort.
2. Adjust the shocks to a softer setting, if you have adjustable shocks. Most cars do not feature adjustable shocks, but check yours the make sure.
3. Install softer springs. If your vehicle has been lowered by a previous owner with the addition of stiffer, lower performance springs, that may be the cause of your stiff suspension and lack of compliance over bumps. Like shocks, springs have a tremendous effect on a vehicle's ride quality. If you think your springs are too low and have a heavy spring rate, replace them with softer, taller springs. This will result in more suspension travel and a softer, more compliant ride.
4. Replace the bushings in the suspension. The bushings are the parts that isolate the suspension from the chassis. However, there are different levels of bushings. Urethane bushings are more stiff and firm and provide a more responsive suspension but can also make the car ride more harshly. Replace urethane bushings with rubber bushings for a softer, more comfortable ride.
5. Replace the sway bars with smaller bars. Sway bars are bolted from one side of the suspension to the other, one on either end of the car usually, and prevent the inside tire from lifting by forcing it to the ground. This in turn increases grip. But if the sway bars are too large, they can negatively affect your ride quality.
The 1998 Harley-Davidson Road King is part of the motorcycle maker's FL series of large-frame touring bikes. The Road King has several FL designations, including the FLHRC and FLHRI models, along with the Electra Glide. A V-Twin engine powers the big and stable Road King, which can be equipped with many accessories, such as pannier luggage and a windshield.
Engine
The air-cooled, two-cylinder, 45-degree V-Twin engine displaces 1338 cubic centimeters (81.75 cubic inches). The cylinder bore is 3.46 inches with a 4.25-inch stroke. The fuel-injected engine with an electric starter features an 8.5:1 compression ratio and develops 60 horsepower and 76.5 ft.-lbs. of torque, which gives the Road King its acceleration. The transmission is a five-speed belt-drive model.
Frame
The frame is made of double-cradle steel. Stopping power is accomplished through triple disc brakes, with the front equipped with twin 11.49-inch disc brakes on front cartridge forks and the rear featuring twin shock absorbers and swing-arm suspension with a single 11.49-inch disc brake. The shocks can be air adjusted. Anti-locking brakes (ABS) are an option. The front tire is MT90 B16, with the rear tire size MU85 B16.
Size
The dimensions of the 1998 Road King vary slightly depending on the specific model and accessories ordered with the bike. Generally, however, the Road King's dimensions remain consistent from the 1996 through 2009 model years. The Road King's wheelbase measures 63.5 inches, with an overall length of about 97 inches. The seat measures about 27 inches from the ground, although some models were as high as 29.5 inches. Curbside weight was about 764 lb., although the Electra Glide Road King weighed as little as 707 lb.
Features
The Road King features an electric, spartan-styled speedometer placed in a chrome housing unit on the fuel tank. The headlamp housing is chromed. The bike features fat whitewall tires, laced (wire) wheels and leather saddlebags with stiff inserts to maintain their shape. The seat valance, fuel tank and fender tips are emblazoned with the Harley-Davidson logo. The bike features floorboards but no highway peg footrests, for long rides.
Performance
The Road King can reach a top speed of 93 mph and can go from 0-60 mph in 8 seconds. Although not particularly quick from a dead stop, it's the lightest of the fuel-injected Harleys-weighing 76 lb. less than the Harley Ultra Classic-and can be quite spry for its size. Two major styling deficiencies were the wide-set handlebars and a spongy seat that made long-distance riding a chore, especially for older riders more likely to own the Road King. Harley-Davidson responded to rider complaints by narrowing the handlebars and giving the seat more lumbar support for the 2000 Road King models.
Rewards of patient care outweigh any stressful elements within the CNA field.
Getting approval from testing proctors makes the process of becoming a certified nursing aide (CNA) worth the time an effort. This federally regulated field of work has stressful elements, but the rewards of caring for patients will outweigh them. Usually, students study for two distinct sections of the CNA examination process. First, nursing students need to pass the written exam. The second section of the CNA test, examines the proficiency of nursing-related skills of each student. Finding out the test results for the CNA exam is really easy to do.
Instructions
1. Take the first written CNA test when instructed to do so by your examination proctor. Wait until the first testing period is over, and then the proctor will tell you if you passed the first section.
2. Take the second portion of the CNA examination test. Bring along your watch with the second hand. Wait for the proctor to tell you if you passed the second portion of the CNA examination process. Go to next step if your proctor does not tell you whether you passed the second portion of your test.
3. Look in your mailbox for your official CNA testing results two to three weeks after you have taken the written and skills test. Make copies of your results and put them in a secure location (optional).
4. Wait one more week to verify the official results that were mailed to you, using the certified nurses' registry official site for your state. Use your Social Security number, current mailing address and current phone number to verify results through an official automated system or state website.
5. Show the officially mailed results to prospective employers or private-duty patients.
Tags: second portion, examination process, passed second, passed second portion, portion examination, second portion examination
First produced in 1971, and still in production today, the Harley-Davidson Dyna Super Glide is the first factory custom motorcycle. Like with any vehicle, from time to time you will need to replace the brake pads in order to ensure proper stopping. Fortunately for the do-it-yourself bike mechanic, in the case of the Dyna Super Glide, this process isn't that difficult.
Instructions
1. Remove the caliper. Depending on the year of your Dyna Glide, it will either be held on with bolts or retaining clips. If it has bolts, there will be an upper and lower one that can be removed with an Allen wrench. If it has retaining clips, turn the clips until they jut out of the caliper, then pull them out with a pair of pliers. The caliper can then be removed from the bike by hand.
2. Visually inspect the caliper for damage. If it is cracked or otherwise damaged, replace it. In the more likely case that it is fine, spray it down with brake cleaner.
3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper by hand.
4. Press down on the front brake pedal to force the piston all the way out of the caliper, then spray it and the springs down with brake cleaner.
5. Use the end of a screwdriver to force the caliper's piston to the bottom of its bore.
6. Install the new brake pads into where you removed the old.
7. Follow the directions in reverse for reassembly.
Tags: caliper then, Dyna Super, Dyna Super Glide, Super Glide, brake cleaner, brake pads, down with
Dressed in full-length fenders and white-walled tires, the Softail Deluxe evokes Harley-Davidson's nostalgic heritage. Deep within the classically inspired bike is the motorcycle's battery. Although the battery isn't often disturbed, you will need to access it should installation of custom electrical parts and routine maintenance be necessary. Despite the layers of decadent chrome, finding the battery is simple.
Instructions
1. Lift the leather flap on the rear of the rider's saddle upward to reveal the mounting bolts. Unscrew the mounting bolts with a screwdriver.
2. Lift the rear of the saddle upward slightly and pull the saddle to the rear of the motorcycle to disengage its metal tab from the frame. Set the saddle aside. The battery will now be exposed, centered in between the frame rails in the area directly below the saddle mount.
3. Loosen the battery retention strap and remove the battery from the battery tray by lifting vertically out of the frame.
4. Replace the saddle by sliding the metal tab into the frame. Lower the saddle onto the frame and tighten the mounting bolts with a screwdriver.
Tags: mounting bolts, bolts with, bolts with screwdriver, mounting bolts with, saddle upward, with screwdriver
While most motorcycle manufacturers opt to house the engine and transmission together, Harley-Davidson uses a two-part engine and transmission system to power their motorcycles. The engine's power output is transferred to the transmission through the primary chain, housed behind an oil-filled cover on the left side of the motorcycle. Just as the engine's oil supply works to reduce internal friction, the fluid within the primary chaincase reduces wear on the chain and the transmission's clutch plates. The primary fluid must be changed every 5,000 miles to ensure that your Harley-Davidson is ready to ride when you are.
Instructions
1. Take your Softail for a brief, 10-minute ride. Shift through all five gears, six for newer Softail models, while riding at a moderate pace. Park the motorcycle on its side stand, once you return, and let it cool for 10 minutes.
2. Place an oil drain pan below the primary chaincase on the left side of the engine. Unscrew the primary drain bolt from the bottom of the primary chaincase, located directly below the round clutch inspection cover, using a 3/8-inch Allen wrench.
3. Remove the drain bolt O-ring and wipe the bolt threads and tip with a shop rag. Slip a new O-ring onto the bolt, then coat the O-ring with Harley-Davidson Formula+ Primary Chaincase Fluid. Screw the drain bolt into the primary chaincase by hand. Tighten the drain bolt to 17 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and a 3/8-inch Allen socket.
4. Remove the round clutch inspection cover and gasket from the primary chaincase, using a T27 Torx wrench. Lift the motorcycle into an upright position and hold it in place. Fill the primary chaincase with up to one quart of Harley-Davidson Formula+ Primary Chaincase Fluid. Ideally, the fluid level should be even with the bottom of the clutch assembly, as viewed through the clutch inspection port with the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Lower the motorcycle onto its side stand. Reinstall the clutch inspection cover and gasket onto the primary chaincase. Screw the upper bolt into place, using a T27 Torx wrench. Install the bottom-most bolt next, then alternate between bolts in a star-shaped pattern. Tighten the bolts to 10 foot-pounds, using the same method.
6. Seal your oil drain pan or pour the old oil into a container, and take it to your local Harley-Davidson repair center for recycling.
Motorcycle saddlebags come in many types, styles and materials. They are use to carry personal belongings, first aid kits and extra stuff. They can be decked out or plain, and are an easy way to carry gear around when traveling on a motorcycle.
History
Three men are credited with patenting motorcycle saddlebags: Stephen Galbraith, Thomas Wargin and R. Kirk Rasmussen. The official patent on the motorcycle saddlebag was filed in 2001 but was not accepted until 2004. Motorcyclist, however, have been rigging luggage or bags to motorcycles since motorcycles were invented in 1867 (the first motorcycle was invented by Stephen Roper and was coal-powered).
Function
The ultimate function of a motorcycle saddlebag is to carry and store stuff. The official patented motorcycle saddle bag is mounted onto the rear of a motorcycle just above the rear wheel. It is oblong in shape and has a hinged lid. The inside of the saddlebag is hollowed out and often has a protective lining. In this hollow area is where clothing, food, medical supplies or just stuff can be stored for travel.
Features
Each motorcycle saddlebag can be personalized or a standard version. It is all up to the motorcyclist tastes. The material used can be leather, canvas or other tough fabrics. Some saddlebags come with extra pockets for storing money, keys, wallets and cellphones, while other saddlebags may be generic or simple versions with one large holding space. Some features on a motorcycle saddlebag may be tassels, metal studs or leather embroidery.
Benefits
Motorcycle saddlebags can store just about anything you can think of. Instead of trying to fill jacket pockets, pants pockets and vest pockets with travel accessories a saddlebag gives the motorcyclist convenience. This is a place to store extra clothes, money, food and other niceties that may be needed when traveling. It also personalizes a motorcycle, as owners can decorate saddle bags according to their personal tastes.
Considerations
A few important things to keep in a motorcycle saddlebag are extra clothes, hidden money, a first aid kit, a Swiss army knife and a canned or dry meal. These things may come in handy when traveling a long country road in the middle of nowhere or just when you want to take a ride. You never know when you will need these extra items, so it is always good to keep them on hand.
Tags: motorcycle saddlebag, when traveling, extra clothes, Motorcycle saddlebags, saddlebags come
In the upper right corner of your Mac desktop, you will find your Macintosh HD folder, which contains all of your essential files. By default, your Mac OS X hard drive image will appear as a gray, animated computer drive. You can change this image at any time without the need for any complicated hacks or third-party software. All you need is a few minutes to accomplish this task.
Instructions
1. Choose an image that you would like to use as your HD icon. For example, you might use an image from your family vacation or a picture of your favorite cartoon character. You can use any image that is stored on your computer as long as you can open it in an image viewer such as Preview, Photoshop or iPhoto.
2. Double-click the image file to open it. By default, images in Mac OS X open in Preview unless you have edited them using another program.
3. Copy your image. Click Edit on the menu bar at the top of your screen and select Copy from the drop-down menu. As a shortcut, you can just press the COMMAND key and the C key simultaneously. Close the image when you finish.
4. Click your hard drive icon once to highlight it. A transparent border will appear around your default image.
5. Click File on your menu bar, then select Get Info from the drop-down menu. As a shortcut, you can click COMMAND and I simultaneously. The Macintosh HD Info window will appear on the screen.
6. Click the hard drive image in the upper left corner of the Macintosh HD Info window. A light blue border will appear around the icon.
7. Paste your selected image. Click Edit on your menu bar, then select Paste from the drop-down menu. Your hard drive icon will now appear as the image you selected.
Tags: will appear, hard drive, drop-down menu, from drop-down, from drop-down menu, image Click
These troubleshooting steps can help you get to the bottom of some common engine problems.
Many Harley Davidson Road King owners like to get familiar with their bikes and how they operate. When there is a problem with the engine, they are anxious to troubleshoot and learn fix it themselves. This checklist can help solve some possible operating problems, and resolving them will help keep your bike in good running condition. More than one item could be causing your problem, so check all areas. If things get too complicated, be sure talk to your mechanic.
Instructions
Engine Does Not Turn Over
1. Turn the ignition switch to "on."
2. Inspect the battery cable connectors and terminals to be certain they are attached correctly. Clean the cables and terminals with a wire brush if they look corroded or dirty.
3. Check to make sure the motorcycle is not in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. Squeeze the clutch lever against the handlebar.
4. Look at the engine stop switch and make sure it is in the "on" position.
Engine Turns Over But Will Not Start
5. Check the gas tank to make sure it has fuel.
6. Check the fuses. If one of the fuses has blown, this will prevent the engine from turning over.
7. Check the battery terminals to be certain they are not broken or loose. The battery top must be clean and dry. Inspect the screws, clamps and cables for corrosion. Clean if necessary.
8. Check the spark plug cables to be certain they are not loose or cracked and shorting out the engine. If the cables are worn or cracked, they need to be replaced.
Engine Starts Hard
9. Check the weight of your engine oil against your owner's manual. Be sure to base it on the current season. If it is winter, the oil may be too heavy.
10. Check the spark plug cables to be certain they are not loose or in bad condition. If the cables are worn or cracked, they need to be replaced.
11. Look at the cable connections at the battery terminals to see if there is a loose wire or a loose connection.
12. Remove the spark plugs with a 5/8-inch spark plug socket and examine them. A sooty, black deposit indicates that the engine has been idling too long. If the deposit on the plug is wet and black, the plug is fouled by oil. Both of these will cause the engine to function improperly.
Engine Overheats
13. Check the oil to see if there is an adequate supply. Start the engine and let it idle until the oil and the engine are warm before checking.
14. Test to see if the oil returns to the pan if there is enough oil. The oil may not be circulating properly. After checking the levels, wait three minutes for the oil to drain down to the pan. If the oil does not return to the pan, shut off the engine until you find the problem.
15. Turn off your motorcycle if you have been idling for extended periods of time. This will cause the engine to overheat.
Tags: certain they, make sure, spark plug, battery terminals, been idling, cables certain
Hotels with Jacuzzi suites are available in the Hurstbourne, Kentucky area.
Hurstbourne is in Jefferson County, Kentucky, in the Bluegrass Region. Located less than a 20-minute drive from Louisville, Hurstbourne is less than 10 miles from the Louisville Zoo. The city offers area restaurants, museums and recreational activities. Hotels with Jacuzzi suites are available in the Hurstbourne area to accommodate business and leisure travelers.
Country Inns and Suites Louisville East
The Country Inns and Suites is less than five miles from Hurstbourne. The hotel offers standard guest room and suite accommodations. All rooms include standard amenities including a microwave, refrigerator and complimentary high-speed Internet access. The hotel suite accommodations include two king suites, an office suite and two Jacuzzi suites. Some suites include a separate living area with a sleeper sofa and a separate bedroom. The Jacuzzi suites include a Jacuzzi whirlpool. The office suite is a three-room suite with a separate office room with a work desk. Hotel amenities include an on-site business center, exercise room, indoor pool and deluxe continental breakfast. Laundry facilities and meeting rooms are available at the hotel.
The Brown Hotel
Established in 1923, The Brown Hotel offers accommodations for business travelers as well as families on vacation. The hotel has 293 guest rooms and suites with standard amenities including executive desks, armoires and complimentary wireless Internet access. The Muhammad Ali suite offers the space of a small apartment with a separate private bedroom, dining room and a living room with a sitting area. The suite features a master bath with a marble Jacuzzi tub and a second bath with a tub and shower. The hotel has two on-site restaurants, The English Grille Fine Dining with American cuisine and J. Graham's Caf with bistro-style casual dining. The Louisville Palace Theater is one block from the hotel.
La Quinta Inn and Suites
The La Quinta Inn Hotel features 97 guest suites. All suites include standard amenities with a refrigerator, microwave and a television with premium cable channels. The hotel has Jacuzzi suites which include a two-person Jacuzzi tub. The hotel offers additional amenities and services like complimentary high-speed Internet access, a 24-hour on-site convenience center, a fitness center, outdoor pool, complimentary airport shuttle service and a deluxe continental breakfast. The La Quinta Inn is fewer than 20 minutes from Hurstbourne and less than 10 miles from local attractions such as the Louisville Science Center, Muhammad Ali Center and the Kentucky Derby Museum.
SpringHill Suites
SpringHill is an all-suite hotel located in Louisville, less than five miles from Hurstbourne. The hotel has 142 suite accommodations including a Jacuzzi suite. All suites have a wet bar, plasma television and sleeper sofa. Complimentary wireless Internet, an on-site fitness center, indoor pool, full-service business center and a free buffet breakfast are all available at the SpringHill Suites Hotel. Several attractions are within 15 miles of the hotel such as the Louisville Zoo and the Churchhill Downs, home of the Kentucky Derby.
Tags: Jacuzzi suites, less than, miles from, from Hurstbourne, Internet access, standard amenities, suite accommodations
A computer's DVI port for high-definition video output.
Computer graphics cards output high-definition video by default because standard definition is not clear enough to discern text and other information viewed on computer monitors. Different graphics cards use different output formats for high-definition video.
VGA
VGA ports are the oldest of these three types of graphics output. A VGA port is a trapezoidal 15-pin blue port with two screw holes on either side to hold the data cable to the port. Many HDTVs and computer monitors have a VGA port that allows them to connect directly to a computer.
DVI
DVI is replacing VGA as the standard computer monitor connection. DVI ports are rectangular and feature 24-pin holes, they also use two screw holes to hold the cable in place. Modifications of the basic DVI port can feature additional pins and prongs. A passive adapter makes DVI ports compatible with VGA cables and vice versa.
HDMI
HDMI ports are used to transmit high-definition audio and video signals on the same channel. Many graphics cards are including HDMI ports in addition to VGA or DVI ports to facilitate the connection to HDTVs or home theaters. HDMI connectors are much smaller than DVI or VGA ports and do not use screws to hold the cable in place.
Tags: graphics cards, high-definition video, cable place, computer monitors, HDMI ports, hold cable, hold cable place
The original term of "mag wheels" was applied to any type of custom wheels made with a magnesium alloy. In today's vernacular, however, basically any lightweight custom wheels are considered "mag wheels." They can be made of a magnesium alloy, aluminum or virtually any other type of metal that is shiny, strong and able to be polished.
Instructions
1. Clean the mag wheels with an automotive degreaser. Spray on or apply the cleaning solution with a rag, allow it to loosen and dissolve the dirt and grease. Then wipe it off thoroughly with a clean rag.
2. Smooth out any pits, scratches or dings by using an abrasive pad. Rub over any irregularities and sand them out. Start with a 600-grit abrasive pad and move to a 400-grit pad if needed. Never use a lower grit pad than a 400 or you will put scratches into the wheels that will not readily come off. Wipe the wheels with a damp rag to remove any dust or debris left over from this process.
3. Apply a mag wheel polish or an aluminum polish with a buffing pad and begin the polishing process. Buff the wheels to bring out a shine. Plan on using a lot of elbow grease here. Wipe off the polish residue with a clean rag, inspect the wheel for any area that has been missed, particularly between spokes, and reapply the polish and buff again if necessary.
Tags: custom wheels, magnesium alloy, wheels with, with clean
Google's Android phone operating system is very customizable. The wallpaper is just one of the areas that can be personalized. In fact, you can make your own. Androids support both live and static wallpaper. Here we will concentrate on making static wallpaper.
Instructions
1. Determine the dimension of the screen. Keep in mind the scrolling to the two sides. Different Android devices require different size images for their wallpapers. For example:
MyTouch 3G: 640 x 480
Samsung Galaxy: 960 x 800
2. Use an image-editing application, such as Photoshop Elements or GIMP, to create Android wallpaper to the desired dimensions. Select a picture of your choice and open it in your image editor. Set the crop tool to the desired dimensions aspect ratio and select the portion of the picture you want to use.
3. Re-size the file to the desired dimensions before saving it. This may seem redundant, but if you used the aspect ratio, the actual pixel size of the file could be 1280 x 960, making the file four times larger than it needs to be.
4. Save the file to your hard drive.
5. Copy the file to your Android device. Connect the Android phone to the computer via the USB cable. Mount the SD card and copy the wallpaper files to the SD card from the computer.
6. Disconnect the Android phone from the computer and use the Gallery tool to set the new files as the device's wallpaper.
Lowering the forks is easier on some Harleys than others.
Lowering the forks on a Road King is a much tougher job than lowering the forks on a Softail, Dyna or Sportster. Harley sells a parts kit to help you accomplish the job. Three special tools are required to install the kit to Harley specifications. You must also replace 8 sets of parts that are not included with the kit. But if you have been yearning for an excuse to take your forks completely apart, you enjoy collecting tools, you own a beach towel you have always hated and you have a spacious, well equipped place in which to work, then this is the right job for you.
Instructions
Remove The Forks
1. Detach the windshield from the Road King using the quick detach clips. Elevate the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the front tire leaves the floor.
2. Loosen and detach the front caliper using a hex socket and a socket wrench. Hook a bungee cord to the caliper. Hook the other end of the bungee cord to the handlebars.
3. Loosen the axle nut with a hex socket and socket wrench. Pull the complete axle assembly out of the wheel. Remove and set aside the front wheel.
4. Loosen the fender mounting screws using a socket wrench and socket and an Allen wrench. Remove the four screws and the front fender.
5. Loosen, mark for reference with tape, then remove the upper and lower fork bracket pinch bolts using an Allen wrench, a socket and a socket wrench. Carefully lower the fork assembly out of the fork brackets. Wrap the forks in a beach towel.
Disassemble The Forks
6. Remove the nuts, lock washers, flat washers and axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider with an Allen wrench and an open end wrench.
7. Clamp the Harley-Davidson fork tube holder or equivalent horizontally in a bench vise. Clamp one fork tube vertically, with the fork cap bolt up, between the rubber pads of the fork tool. Tighten the knobs on the fork tube tool by hand.
8. Remove the fork cap bolt from fork tube plug with a large adjustable wrench. Remove and discard the quad ring seal.
9. Remove the fork tube plug as if you know there is a compressed spring in the fork tube under the plug. Remove the fork spring from the fork tube.
10. Unloosen the fork from the fork tube holder. Insert the opposite fork tube in the holder and remove the fork cap bolt, fork tube plug and spring from the opposite fork.
11. Remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. Turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a drain pan.
12. Put the old fork spring back into the right fork tube. Work on one fork at a time.
13. Put a folded shop rag on the floor. Turn the fork assembly upside down and push the end of the fork spring against the rag to compress the spring. Compress the spring and remove the remaining screw on the bottom of the fork slider with an Allen socket and an air impact wrench.
14. Discard the copper, crush gasket and the screw.
15. Remove the fork spring and the damper tube from the fork. Remove the rebound spring from the damper tube. Save the rebound spring and discard the fork spring and damper tube.
16. Reinstall the forks into the fork tube holder. Remove the remaining screw on the bottom of the slider, the crush gasket, fork spring and damper from the left fork tube using the same procedures that you applied to the right fork tube.
17.Remove the retaining clips between the fork sliders and the fork tubes with a mechanic's pick or a dental pick.
18. Remove the fork tubes from the fork sliders. Slide the fork oil seals, slider spacers and slider bushings off the end of the fork tubes. Discard fork oil seals and slider bushings.
19. Pry open the split lines on the fork tube bushings with a flathead screwdriver and remove them from the grooves at the end of the fork tubes. Discard the fork tube bushings.
20. Remove the two lower stops from the two fork sliders. Clean all disassembled parts with solvent and rags.
Reassemble The Forks Part 1
21. Coat the replacement fork tube bushings with new, clean fork oil. Expand the fork tube bushings at split line with a flathead screwdriver and slip each over the ends and into the grooves on the two fork tubes.
22. Install replacement wear rings in the grooves at the tops of the two new damper tubes included with the lowering kit. Install the old damper springs on the new damper tubes.
23. Slide the new damper tubes into the old fork tubes. Reinstall the lower stops into the new damper tubes.
24. Push the fork sliders into the fork tube holders. Slide the fork tubes into the fork sliders.
25. Coat the replacement slider bushings with fork oil and slide the new bushings down the fork tubes. Push the slider spacers included with the kit down the fork tubes until each contacts the slider bushing on that fork tube.
26
Cover the lips of the fork tubes with masking tape. Coat the replacement fork oil seals with fork oil. Slide the new fork seals spring side down into the fork tubes until they contact the slider spacer. Remove the tape from the fork tubes.
27
Slide the fork seal/bushing tool down one fork tube at a time and use it like a slide hammer to drive the fork oil seal into that fork tube until, using a flashlight, you can clearly see the retaining clip groove in the fork slider. Repeat this on the opposite fork tube.
28
Slide the old retaining clips down the fork tubes until they contact the fork oil seal.
29
Slide one of the new fork springs included with the kit down the right fork tube. Place a folded shop rag on the floor.
30
Remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. Turn the assembly upside down and forcefully press the end of the fork spring against the folded rag.
31
Install a replacement end screw and replacement copper crush washer. Tighten the end screw to 18 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench. Remove the fork spring from the tube and place it in the opposite fork tube.
32
Repeat the procedures you just completed to install the end screw in the opposite fork tube. Remove the fork spring from the fork tube.
Fork Reassembly Part 2
33
Shove one fork tube into one of the fork sliders. Clamp the fork slider, fork tube side up, into the fork tube holder.
34
Measure 11.2 ounces or 300 milliliters of Type E fork oil or equivalent into a pint measuring cup. Pour the fork oil into one of the fork tubes. Pump the fork tube four times to remove air from the fork. Repeat for the opposite fork tube.
35
Loosen the thumbscrew on the metal ring on the fork oil level gauge. The gauge looks like a bicycle pump with a transparent tube. The metal ring is attached to the transparent tube.
36
Slide the metal ring up or down the transparent tube and tighten when exactly 4.92 inches, or 125 millimeters, of transparent tube extends beyond the metal ring.
37
Completely depress the handle of the fork oil level gauge. Rest the metal ring on top of the fork tube.
38
Pull the fork gauge handle up to suck excess oil out of the fork tube. When no oil comes out of the fork tube the fork oil level is just right.
39
Pour 11.2 ounces of fork oil into the opposite fork tube and correct the fork oil level with the fork oil level gauge as above.
40
Install new, replacement O-rings onto the 2 original fork tube plugs. Screw the fork tube plugs into the tops of the fork tubes and hand tighten both plugs.
41
Install new quad ring seals onto the two old fork cap bolts. Thread the fork cap bolts into the fork tube plugs and tighten 55 foot pounds of torque with a 1 1/8 inch socket and torque wrench.
Final Reassembly
42
Carefully slide the fork assembly up and into the fork brackets. Replace and tighten the upper and lower fork bracket pinch bolts using an Allen wrench, a hex socket and a socket wrench. Tighten the pinch bolt nuts to 30 foot pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.
43
Replace the front fender and tighten the four mounting screws using a socket wrench and hex socket and an Allen wrench.
44
Replace the front wheel and axle assembly. Tighten the front axle nut to 50 pounds of torque with a torque wrench and hex socket.
45
Reattach the brake caliper and tighten the mounting bolts to 35 pounds with a torque wrench and hex socket.
46
Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the windshield.
Tags: fork tube, fork tubes, from fork, into fork, fork spring
In just a few simple steps, you can create your own HD DVDs.
HD DVDs enable you to watch high-definition movies on your TV because of their large capacity. A single-layer disc can hold up to 15 gigabytes of data; a dual-layer disc can hold up to 30 GB. With the use of video editing software and an HD DVD rewritable drive, you can create your own HD DVDs.
Instructions
1. Install the video editing software of your choice (e.g., Sony Vegas, Nero Vision or Adobe Premiere). This how-to guide is based on Nero Vision.
2. Open Nero Vision and select the "Make Movie" tab from the main menu. A virtual film reel will appear at the bottom of your screen. Click on the blue "Import" button in the middle of the screen and select the video file or files that you wish to burn onto a blank HD DVD. Click "OK." These files will copy into the "My Media" portion of the program, which is on the top right of the screen.
3. Drag and drop the imported video files from the top right portion of your screen onto the video time line at the bottom. Press the "Export to Video" option. The location of this button varies from program to program; however, it is usually on the bottom right-hand portion of your screen.
4. Choose the output format as HD DVD from the drop-down menu titled "Recording Settings." This option is on the right-hand side of your screen under the "Set The Parameters For Burning" header.
5. Insert a blank HD DVD disc into your HD DVD rewritable drive. Wait for your computer to recognize the blank disc and then select the "Burn to HD DVD" option on the lower right side of the screen.
6. Wait as your video files are burned onto the HD DVD. Let the disc "finalize," which ensures that the data on it cannot be overwritten or erased.
7. Remove the disc from the drive when the finalize process is complete. Insert the disc into any HD DVD player and enjoy your movie.
Tags: your screen, Nero Vision, blank disc, create your, create your DVDs, disc hold, disc into
Owners of Harley-Davidson motorcycles with Evolution or Twin Cam engines routinely make a few simple improvements to increase the performance of their bikes. The most basic improvements are usually called a "stage 1 upgrade," and are designed to allow your motor to "breathe." Stage 1 upgrades are very simple improvements that do not require you to tear your engine apart. These improvements typically include upgrading the air cleaner, installing an aftermarket exhaust system, and either rejetting the carburetor or remapping the electronic fuel injector control. The easiest of these improvements to accomplish is replacing the air cleaner.
Instructions
1. Remove the outer cover. If you currently use a stock air cleaner cover, turn the hex bolt in the middle of the cover counterclockwise. Aftermarket air cleaner covers may have up to five bolts. After you remove the bolt or bolts, the outer cover pulls off easily. Set the cover and bolt onto a soft, clean surface.
2. Place clean shop rags over any chrome, like your exhaust heat shields, to protect those surfaces while you work.
3. Use a Torx key to loosen the four air cleaner element retention bolts on a stock air cleaner. The bolts will be in the four corners of a rectangular retention plate in the middle of the air cleaner element.
4. Pull the air cleaner element and retention plate about two inches away from the backing plate once the bolts are loosened. Unplug the two top breather tubes. Pull the whole assembly away from the backing plate, and set the complete assembly on a soft, clean surface.
5. Use a hex key or hex socket to loosen the two breather bolts at the top of stock backing plates. Loosen everything on a Harley by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the bolts and remove the backing plate. The throttle body will now be completely exposed.
6. Install the new backing plate by tightening the original breather bolts clockwise with a hex key or hex socket.
7. Use the original or replacement air cleaner element retention bolts to bolt the new air cleaner element to the new backing plate with hex or Torx key. The tool you use to install the new element will depend on the aftermarket model you buy. If appropriate, plug the breather tubes into the top of your new element.
8. Use the bolts included with your new air cleaner cover to bolt the cover to the air cleaner element.
Tags: cleaner element, backing plate, cleaner element retention, element retention, away from, away from backing, bolts stock
The 2005 XL883R was the racier, roadster variation of Harley-Davidson's venerable Sportster series. Although the 883R can be ridden enthusiastically for miles, it will eventually need a refreshing of its internal oil supply. Like most of the Harley-Davidson lineup, the 883R uses two separate oil types to lubricate its engine and its combined primary drive and transmission. Both oil types should be changed simultaneously at 2,500-mile intervals, or once a year, whichever comes first.
Instructions
1. Park your XL883R on its side stand, then start the engine and let it idle for three to five minutes. Stop the engine and let it cool for another 10 minutes.
2. Place your XL883R on a motorcycle stand or lift to hold it in an upright position.
3. Unscrew the filler cap from the oil tank below the right side of the rider's seat. Loosen the oil drain hose clamp, held in place by a bracket under the motorcycle's frame and engine, using a flat screwdriver. Pull the drain hose off its bracket and allow the engine oil to drain into a 5-quart oil drain pan. Push the oil drain hose back onto its bracket, then tighten the drain hose clamp.
4. Wrap a shop towel around the base of the oil filter, placed at the front-left side of the engine, to absorb any remaining oil in the oil circuit. Unscrew the oil filter from the oil pump with an oil filter wrench. Wipe the oil pump clean with a shop towel.
5. Remove the new oil filter from its packaging, then spread a coat of 20W50 motor oil around the oil filter's gasket. Screw the filter into place by hand until it is seated against the oil pump, then tighten it an additional quarter-turn.
6. Place a funnel into the oil tank's filler neck, found below the right side of the rider's seat. Pour three quarts of 20W50 motor oil into the oil tank, then screw the filler cap back on.
7. Unscrew the primary cover drain bolt, placed directly under the large round clutch inspection cover, using a 5/8-inch socket and a socket wrench. Drain the primary drive oil into your oil drain pan. Clean the drain plug tip with a shop towel, then screw it into place by hand. Tighten the drain plug to 14 foot-pounds, using a 5/8-inch socket and a torque wrench.
8. Unscrew the clutch inspection cover bolts with a T45 Torx driver, then pull the cover and its gasket away from the primary cover. Pour one quart of Harley-Davidson Primary oil into the clutch inspection port, using a funnel. Remove the funnel and wipe away any spilled oil.
9. Reinstall the clutch inspection cover and gasket onto the primary drive cover. Screw the clutch inspection cover bolts into place with a T45 Torx driver until they are lightly seated against the cover. Tighten the bolts to 108 inch-pounds with a T45 Torx socket and a torque wrench, alternating between bolts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Remove your XL883R from the stand and lower it onto its side stand. Start the engine and watch for leaks around the oil filter and both drain plugs. If a leak forms at any of these areas, tighten the oil filter or drain plugs an addition quarter-turn. Stop the engine if there are no oil leaks.
You can align your satellite dish without the aid of a meter.
In order for a satellite dish to pick up a signal, it must have the correct alignment with the satellite. It is vital to have the dish correctly installed and positioned accurately, as well. The difference in only a few degrees one way or the other will directly affect the results. If you have a satellite meter, you can quickly locate the satellite(s) needed. You can also find them without the use of a meter (satellite finder). You will need to have a compass and either be able to see a connected TV, be within earshot of a TV or have someone to assist you.
Instructions
1. Check the location of your satellite dish. In order for a DirecTV or Dish Network dish (antenna) to receive signal from the required satellites, there must be a clear vision of the southern sky. Make certain the dish is pointed in the precise direction needed. Use your compass to locate the southern sky. If your satellite dish is not located in an area that will work, move it to one that will.
2. Verify the satellite dish setup. If the antenna is for DirecTV, it must be set at 51 degrees elevation. Look on the back of the dish and locate this setting. Check that it is correct, or use your wrench to loosen and adjust it to the precise degree needed. A Dish Network one should be set at 220 to 230 degrees. The skew must also be set to 133 on the Dish Network dish. Tighten all of the bolts and screws on the dish, but you may need to loosen the ones holding it to the "mast" (pole) to align it as directed in Step 5.
3. Clear the area of any obstacles. Objects must not interrupt the signal from the satellites to the dish. Remove any branches, bushes or other obstructions blocking the satellite dish, or move it to another place. The signal comes down at a 50-degree angle from the sky, so be certain to inspect the area within this space.
4. Ready the equipment. Turn the receiver and television on. Open the menu to dish "Setup" or "Installation" and select "Satellite" and then "Signal Strength," or it may be called "Signal Meters." If you have someone to help you, have him stay in front of the television to talk to you. They can inform you what the signal strength is by yelling to you, using a phone or walkie-talkie. If you do not have an assistant, you can either watch the signal (if you can see it from the dish), or you can go by the sound given off by the receiver. You will see the signal meter go up or hear the tone change as you zone in on a satellite.
5. Align the satellite dish. Once the satellite dish is correctly set up (through following Steps 1 through 4), the alignment of it should be fairly easy. All you should have to do is face it to the southern sky and begin moving it very slowly in either direction (left or right). Once it picks up the satellite's signal, you will see (or hear) it. Check the amount of the satellite signal. A DirecTV dish can go as high as 100, but a Dish Network dish goes as high as 125. The higher the signal, the better chances you have of not losing it during bad weather. Try moving the dish slightly to improve the signal, if you are below 70 to 80. Once you have a high enough number, tighten all of the bolts and screws on the satellite dish.
Tags: satellite dish, Dish Network, Dish Network dish, Network dish, satellite dish, signal from, your satellite
Proper maintenance is the key to keeping a Harley-Davidson motorcycle roadworthy at all times. As part of your regular maintenance routine, changing the lubricating fluids and oil in the motorcycle's engine, transmission and primary drive can prevent premature wear and heat buildup. Although the thought of undertaking this task may seem difficult for the less-than-mechanically-skilled Road King owner, the process is straightforward and can be done fairly quickly after the first or second attempt.
Instructions
1. Place your Road King on a stand or lift. In order for the fluids to drain properly, the motorcycle must be upright during the process. If you do not have a motorcycle stand, click on the "DIY Motorcycle Lift" link in the Resource section to learn about make one using easily obtainable items.
2. Place an oil pan beneath the engine oil drain plug. The plug is under the motor and just in front of the oil sump. Remove the plug, using a socket wrench, and allow the oil to drain. Remove the drain plug's O-ring and replace it with a fresh O-ring. Wipe the tip of the drain plug clean with a shop towel and reinstall it into the motor once the oil has drained completely.
3. Move your oil pan beneath the oil filter. Using a strap- or cap-style filter wrench, unscrew the oil filter from the motor and allow any remaining oil to drain into the oil pan. Fill a new oil filter with oil, and spread a coating of oil around its mating surface. Screw the new oil filter onto the motor by hand until it is seated against the motor. Tighten the filter an additional half to two-thirds of a turn, by hand, to secure it.
4. Add up to 3 quarts of fresh engine oil into the oil tank. Use a funnel to prevent the oil from spilling. Once the oil tank is filled, remove the funnel and wipe it clean with a shop towel. Replace the oil tank's filler cap.
5. Move the oil pan beneath the transmission and remove the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the transmission fluid to drain completely. Remove the drain plug's O-ring and replace it with a new O-ring. Wipe the drain plug with a shop towel to remove any debris before reinstalling it onto the transmission.
6. Add up to 1 quart of fresh transmission fluid into the transmission. Use a funnel to prevent the fluid from spilling. Once the transmission fluid is filled, remove the funnel and wipe it clean with a shop towel. Replace the transmission's filler cap.
7. Remove the round derby cover from the outer primary cover using an Allen wrench. Set the derby cover and its gasket aside. Place your oil pan directly beneath the derby cover. The primary drain plug is located below the derby cover; remove it with an Allen wrench and allow the fluid to drain completely. Replace the drain plug's O-ring and wipe the plug clean with a shop towel before reinstalling it onto the primary.
8. Pour up to 1 quart of fresh primary fluid into the primary through the derby cover's port. Once filled, the primary fluid's level should be at the base of the clutch assembly. Reattach the derby cover and its gasket, tightening the bolts with a socket wrench.
Tags: drain plug, derby cover, shop towel, with shop, with shop towel, clean with
Your Harley-Davidson relies on three separate fluids. Replacing these fluids regularly will extend the life of your bike.
Regular oil and fluid changes are a key ingredient to maintaining your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. If left unchanged, the oil will break down over time, losing the lubricating properties that protect the motor and transmission form damage. Unlike other manufacturers, Harley-Davidson's V-twin motors use three separate oils: engine oil, primary fluid, and transmission fluid. All three must be changed regularly to extend the life of your ride, a process that can be done fairly easily with the right tools.
Instructions
Engine Oil
1. Locate the engine oil drain plug and place your oil catch pan directly below it. On most models, the drain plug is located under the right side of the motor, next to the frame rail. Sportster models are equipped with a drain hose that is connected to the oil tank instead of the motor. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain completely. Clean the drain plug and replace the O-ring before reinstalling the plug onto the motor or drain hose.
2. Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench and discard it. Prime your new oil filter by filling it with oil and install it by hand onto the motor. Add up to 3 quarts of engine oil into the motor or oil tank.
3. Start the motor and slowly loosen the oil filter until oil begins to seep out from between the filter and motor--this will bleed out any air that may have been trapped in the oil system. Tighten the filter immediately and stop the motor. Wipe away any spilled oil with a shop towel.
Primary Fluid
4. Locate the primary drain plug on the motor's left primary housing. The drain plug is located under the round derby cover on the primary. Place your oil catch pan below the plug and drain the primary fluid completely. Clean the drain plug replace the O-ring before reinstalling the plug onto the primary housing.
5. Remove the derby cover and gasket from the primary housing. Pour fresh primary fluid into the primary housing through the derby hole. Fill the primary until the fluid is touching the base of the clutch diaphragm spring.
6. Reinstall the derby cover and gasket. Wipe away any spilled primary fluid with a shop towel.
Transmission Fluid
7. Loosen the transmission fluid filler cap on the motor to quicken the draining process.
8. Locate the transmission drain plug. The drain plug is normally centered on the back of the motor. Softail models place the drain plug between the rear shock absorbers. Place your oil catch pan beneath the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid completely. Clean off the drain plug and replace the O-ring before reinstalling the plug.
9. Remove the transmission fluid filler cap and slowly add up to a quart of transmission fluid through the filler neck. Replace the filler cap and wipe away any transmission fluid that may have spilled with shop towel.
Changing your Road King's oil and fluids regularly will ensure years of enjoyment.
Regular fluid changes are a fundamental part of keeping your Harley-Davidson Road King roadworthy. Unlike the motors used by other manufacturers, Harley-Davidson employs three separate fluids to lubricate the Road King's motor, primary drive and transmission systems. This can easily confuse a new Harley rider, who may be used to changing a single oil type.
Instructions
Motor Oil
1. Place your oil pan beneath the motor oil drain plug. The drain plug is located on the right side of the motor and to the rear of the frame. Remove the drain plug with a Torx socket and replace the plug's o-ring. Allow the oil to drain completely before reinstalling the drain plug.
2. Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench and discard it. Fill the new oil filter with fresh oil and spread a thin coat of oil around the filter's inner mating surface. Screw the filter into place on the motor by hand and wipe away any spilled oil with a shop towel.
3. Open the oil tank's filler cap and pour up to 3 qt. of fresh motor oil into the tank. Replace the filler cap and wipe away any spilled oil.
Primary Fluid
4. Place your drain pan under the primary cover drain plug. The drain plug is located directly under the round derby cover on the outer primary cover. Remove the drain plug with a Torx socket and replace the drain plug's o-ring. Allow the primary fluid to drain and replace the drain plug.
5. Remove the derby cover bolts and pull the cover off the outer primary cover. Pour up to 1 qt. of primary fluid in through the derby cover port, filling the primary until the fluid is touching the lower edge of the clutch diaphragm spring housed within the primary.
6. Reinstall the derby cover and wipe away any spilled fluid.
Transmission Fluid
7. Place your drain pan directly under transmission and remove the drain plug. Replace the drain plug o-ring. Allow the fluid to drain completely and reinstall the drain plug.
8. Remove the transmission's filler cap and add up to 1 qt. of transmission fluid.
9. Replace the filler cap and wipe away any spilled fluid.
Removing the baffles from a Harley-Davidson is a simple process.
For many riders, a louder Harley-Davidson is a safer Harley-Davidson because most accidents occur when drivers are unaware of the motorcycle's presence. And some riders just plain like it loud. Removing the exhaust baffles can be done in three easy steps. However, there are drawbacks to removing them. Over time, the changes in the way the exhaust moves through the pipe will result in some power losses. For some, this might not be noticeable or of marginal concern, but to the rider who is seeking optimal performance from his ride, doing a stage 1 modification may be a better alternative.
Instructions
1. Spray cutting oil into the rear of the muffler. The cutting oil will help ensure that metal shavings will not collect in the exhaust system. It will also help reduce friction and prevent sparking when the baffle is drilled out.
2. Drill out the baffle. Attach a hole saw and extension to an electric drill. Drill into the rear of the first exhaust pipe around the baffle. The baffle is the cylindrical piece at the center of the pipe. Place the hole saw blade around the baffle and drill it out. If smoke or sparks begin to fly, re-coat the inside of the exhaust pipe with oil.
3. Reach into the rear exhaust with a pair of needle-nose pliers and attempt to grab then pry the baffle out of the muffler. It will take a little work to get a solid hold of it; but once that's accomplished, it will come out fairly easily.
4. Repeat the process on the other exhaust pipe. Once both baffles are removed inspect both pipes closely to make sure no debris was left inside them. You may want to remove the muffler and use compressed air or some other method to blow out any metal shavings although the cutting oil should sufficiently prevent debris from flying around during the cutting process.
Tags: exhaust pipe, into rear, around baffle, metal shavings
The Honda Shadow 1100 motorcycle belongs to the Shadow line of cruiser bikes produced by the Japan-based Honda Motor Company Ltd. The Shadow has been produced since 1983 and ranges in engine displacement from 125cc to 1099cc. Larger Honda motorcycles, ranging from 1300cc to 1800cc, do not belong to the Shadow line. Among the Shadow models manufactured are the VF100s, the Shadow ACE, the ACE Tourer, the Shadow Sabre and the Shadow Aero.
The Look
The Honda Shadow 1100 is a medium-sized cruiser for riders who want a bit more heft and road comfort for long distance traveling, but not a tourer that can be overwhelming in city riding. The bike generally comes in black, Pearl Dark Red, Metallic Dark Gray and Candy Dark Red, depending on the model-year. Late 1990 models were offered in Pearl Ivory Cream, Pearl Glacier White, Pearl Hot Rod Yellow with black trim and American Red with Pearl Glacier White, among other color schemes. Mechanically, the motorcycle generally remained unchanged over the years; however, its styling often changed. Oil and cooling lines in the later 1990 models, for example, were relocated to improve the bike's profile. Yet its handlebar-mounted speedometer is rather utilitarian and spartan for a cruising machine.
Dimensions
The seat of the 2000 VT1100 C3 Shadow 1100 stands 28.5 inches off the ground. The rake of the front forks is angled at 32.4 degrees with the fork travel allowing 4.7 inches. The rear trail is 6.3 inches. The wheelbase measures 64.6 inches. The Shadow carries 4.2 gallons of fuel in the tank with just a tad over a half-gallon in reserve.
Engine
The engine of the Honda VT1100 C3 Shadow model is a 1099cc water-cooled, 45-degree V-twin with an 8.0:1 compression ratio. Its bore measures 3.44 inches, and the stroke is 3.59 inches. The engine, equipped with twin carburetors, generates 58 horsepower and 70 foot-pounds of torque. By contrast, the lighter 2000 Shadow Sabre generates 64 horsepower and 72 foot-pounds of torque. Power is transmitted on the 2000 Shadow models through a five-speed transmission with early versions equipped with a four-speed transmission.
Chassis
The 2000 Shadow Sabre's front and rear brakes are single discs measuring 12.44 inches in diameter for the front brakes and 10.86 inches in diameter for the rear. Tire size is 120/90 x 18 inches. The suspension features spring-loaded rear dual shock absorbers adjustable in five positions. The shocks have a maximum travel of 3.9 inches. The 2000 Honda VT1100 C3 Shadow's dry weight is about 615 lbs. The 2000 Shadow Sabre model is considerably lighter at 573 lbs.
Performance
The 1998 Shadow Aero 1100 could achieve an average 35 MPG with a range of 147 miles on a full tank of gas. It reached the quarter-mile in 15.13 seconds at 85.7 MPH and hit 3,310 RPM in top gear at 60 MPH.
Motorcycle clutches are wet or dry, depending on the make and model.
The motorcycle clutch is the part of the transmission that allows power from the engine to be disengaged while shifting, starting and stopping. A motorcycle clutch differs from one on a car in that it consists of a number of fiber plates and metal plates alternately arranged. These are contained in a clutch basket assembly. A clutch is wet or dry, and it is actuated by either a cable or a hydraulic assembly. To easily install a clutch on a motorcycle, you will need a service manual for specific steps, and a few basic tools.
Instructions
1. Drain the engine oil if your motorcycle has a wet clutch. If it has a dry clutch, you may skip this step. Change the oil filter as well, as a failed clutch will often send fiber or metal particles into the oil and dirty the filter.
2. Remove the clutch cover. If you have a wet clutch, you may have to remove the clutch cable or the clutch slave cylinder first. Consult your specific motorcycle manual. Once you have removed the clutch cover, set it aside.
3. Remove the bolts holding the outer clutch basket to the inner clutch basket. There are usually six to eight bolts, depending on the size and type of your motorcycle. Often, there is a special hub nut in the center that you need a special clutch nut tool to remove. Consult your manual for a part number. These sockets are often available at your local motorcycle shop. Remove the clutch plates, laying them out on a clean, dry work surface. Note the order in which you removed them.
4. Inspect the inner clutch basket. In many cases it is not necessary to remove it unless it is damaged. If it is not damaged and does not need to be replaced, leave it installed. Inspect the clutch plates as well. In most cases, it is only necessary to replace the fiber clutch plates, not the metal ones. Inspect metal plates for warping and bluing from overheating. Replace if necessary.
5. Replace the fiber clutch plates with new ones. If you have a wet clutch, soak the new fiber plates in oil before installation. This will make installation quicker, and it will prevent wear from initial dry engagement. If possible, soak the plates for 24 hours.
6. Install the outer clutch basket, using a torque wrench to ensure that all fasteners are tightened to the proper specifications. Consult your manual for specific numbers. Reinstall the clutch nut using the special tool and the torque wrench.
7. Install the clutch cover, using a new gasket if your bike has a wet clutch. Torque bolts to the proper specifications. Refill the bike with oil, if necessary, and install cables or slave cylinders that were removed initially. Pump the clutch a few times. With a cable-operated clutch, adjust the cable so the clutch operates smoothly.
Most mechanics learn bicycle repair by apprenticing in bicycle shops.
Bicycle mechanic certification can take many forms. Courses are available to certify mechanics in the basic assembly and repair of bicycles, wheel building, suspension adjustment and repair as well as race-day mechanics. A few organizations certify individuals in the bicycle mechanic trade, and even skilled uncertified bicycle mechanics easily obtain jobs in many cities across the United States.
Where Most Bicycle Mechanics Start
The vast majority of bicycle mechanics begin working in bicycle shops at a young age. Most shops start young mechanics on simple tasks, such as bicycle assembly, while more experienced mechanics oversee the work. Trial and error and on-the-job training are the two most common teaching methods in bicycle shops. Certain shops specialize in race machines or wheel building, but the skills needed to accomplish these tasks are frequently learned at the local BMX shop.
Mechanic Certification
Though essentially a skilled trade usually learned through apprenticeship, two major bicycle certification institutes are recognized ub the cycling industry: United Bicycle Institute and Barnett Bicycle institute. BBI specializes in suspension service and wheel building and truing technique, according to the BBI website. UBI offers an array of courses from beginning mechanics to advanced bicycle frame building, according to the UBI site.
Certification Options
Both UBI and BBI offer many separate courses in bicycle mechanics, and both schools offer discounts for multiple course completions in a single block of time. BBI is unusual in that the course schedule is designed so individuals desiring a complete training and certification in bicycle mechanics can complete the entire course load in a single 26-day segment.
Race Mechanic Certification
Persons desiring to serve as mechanics for race events typically begin with certification as a USA Cycling race mechanic, according to the USA Cycling website. USA Cycling is a professional bicycle race sanctioning organization that has 2,500 events each year. Most professional race teams employ one or several race mechanics that travel and serve the team at every major event. USA Cycling mechanic certification helps to train mechanics seeking such a position.
First Aid and CPR Certification
USA Cycling encourages bicycle mechanics desiring to work as race mechanics to also obtain certification in first aid and CPR for the safety of themselves, other mechanics and the athletes. Race mechanics are often the first contact with injured athletes stopping at race pits or using support motorcycles. As such, race mechanics trained in first aid and CPR can potentially save the life of an injured rider.
Logitech Vid works with a variety of webcams including clip-on models.
Logitech Vid, also known as Logitech Vid HD, is a video conferencing application for Windows systems that lets you communicate with others using your webcam and an Internet connection. You can also use the program with a microphone or headset alone if you don't want to communicate with someone visually. Logitech Vid is even capable of sending high-definition videos using your HD webcam.
Features
Logitech Vid is free and works with other standard- and high-definition webcam models including standalone and models built into laptop and desktop monitors. But the application is not compatible with similar video conferencing services including Yahoo! Messenger, AIM, Windows Live Messenger or Skype. You cannot share contacts stored in Logitech Vid with these other services. However, you can have these other video conferencing services on your computer and still use Logitech Vid.
Internet and Display Requirements
The application requires a high-speed Internet connection with at least 1 megabytes per second upload/download speed, for high-definition 720p video calls, or 256 kilobytes per second upload/download speed for standard-definition video calls. Your computer needs a monitor with a resolution of 1280 pixels by 720 pixels or higher.
System Requirements
Your Windows 7, Vista or XP system's webcam needs a built-in microphone or you need an external microphone or headset to make voice calls via Logitech Vid. Your system needs a 2.4-gigahertz Intel Core2 dual processor with 2 gigabytes of RAM, if making high-definition calls, or a 1-GHz processor with 512 megabytes of RAM for standard-definition video calls. If using a Mac, your system needs to be running Leopard 10.5.0 or higher and Safari 3.0 or newer. Your system needs a 2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 dual processor with 2 gigabytes of RAM or faster processor, for high-definition calls, or 1GHz Intel-based processor with 512 megabytes of RAM for standard-definition video calls. Logitech Vid is not compatible with other operating systems, including Linux.
Downloading
Navigate your computer's Internet browser to the "Logitech Vid" link to download the video conferencing application. Follow the on-screen prompts to save and install the application. Logitech Vid will automatically detect your webcam and microphone and guide you through adding contacts to the application. The application also includes a "Help" component and a settings utility to fine-tune your webcam, if needed.
Tags: processor with, video calls, video conferencing, your webcam, standard-definition video, standard-definition video calls, system needs